I thought the Norton Commando was the first production bike with a front disc? though the CB750 would not be far behind.
I want these. completely wasted on this bike but for my CR750 replica?
https://carpyscaferacers.com/shop/sh...mooth-special/
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
Regarding brakes, the whole front end looks really similar to my 'wing, which has twin disks. Maybe an easy conversion?
High miles, engine knock, rusty chrome, worn pegs...
Brakes as new
I'd say the Honda was first in 68/69, first Commando to have one was the 72 Combat engined ones. After that it was the norm.
However....as people were used to drums it sounds like manufacturers were concerned about the discs being too good.
I don't know about Hondas but the Commando has a 5/8" ( 15.7mm) diameter M/C and you sleeve them down to a later 13mm.
This gives the preferred ratio of 27:1 http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm.
Only thing you have to watch is final assembly to make sure the compensation port is not covered by piston or seal.
Brake will lock up over time if this happens.....don't ask how I know this.
Set of SS lines and a caliper rebuild and I think you will be surprised.
Forks you can go down the Racetech Emulator new springs or my preferred valve the Sports Valve , made here in NZ by Glyn of Ducati fame
https://sportsvalve.com/glyn-robinson/
DeMyer's Laws - an argument that consists primarily of rambling quotes isn't worth bothering with.
I Googles some shit on only CB750 front brake upgrades and one common one was indeed the GL swap. It appears the main issue with the stock 750 one on a spoke wheel is caliper clearance to the spokes. I found some pretty impressive conversions.
The internet is great. Mind you without it I may achieve more in my life.........
Really?
Still, it's probably only worthwhile if it's really easy. Let's just say I don't suffer much fork-dive under heavy braking....
People seem to take a few things off the early gold wings, not sure why. They used to reckon the coils were special, I took mine off and threw them in the bin because the carbon leads were molded on and I couldn't change them (I was chasing an ignition problem), I swapped them for 500/4 coils from the wrecker
High miles, engine knock, rusty chrome, worn pegs...
Brakes as new
one of the things racers used to do was swap the fork tubes out of GL1000's in to CB750's - same OD (35mm from memory) but thicker wall = less flex under braking.
Apart from that the systems are quite dissimilar: the GL has two discs and the calipers trail the forks and are two active pad sliding pin variety. The CB has a lever mounted to the front of the fork leg and one live piston and one bolted to the lever and the hydraulic line is three separate pieces from memory. Plus the disc is heavy as FUCK and thick as. I quite like the idea of this: https://carpyscaferacers.com/shop/sh...pro-lite-sohc/
with some upgraded pads and a stainless steel one piece brake line. Ima ask over at the CB750 forum.
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
What's the story with drilling your existing disk? Would that make much (any) difference? Is it even possible...?
High miles, engine knock, rusty chrome, worn pegs...
Brakes as new
I own a pillar drill so.........
how hard can it be really.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=9900.175
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
My understanding was a disk is pretty hard and doing that shit in the shed requires some dedication and a lot of beer.
I'd suspect a new, drilled, replacement disk would be cheaper than applying a labor rate and beer value to doing it yourself.
Plus if you stuff it up, you need a new disk .....
Hey so after going quiet for a while the old girl is running. It runs well and the motor is quiet (not too much of the chain slap and the camchain is quiet). Starts on the electric leg too.
I am happy enough with it from the headstock back. From ten feet away it looks pretty good but up close it look like what it is - an old bike with some form of history. I do have the tank badges ( bought from the guy I bought the seat from) so will apply them. I am waiting on a care package from David Silver Spares with some little bits and bobs and some time over Christmas. As an aside because all this shit is now collectable, its FUCKING expensive and hard to get second hand... though Malcolm at Econohonda has been good.
Because I have been so short of time Phil Parrish has done most of the heavy lifting - especially with the carb clean/rebuild and so forth. That was money very well spent.
Even with paying Phil it still only owes me around $7k? something like that - my policy is don't ask, don't tell.
From the headstock forward there is still stuff to do - the tacho does not work (cable is spinning but no one is home) but its a blue face one and needs to be a green face one anyway. The headlight bucket is cracked and the fork ears are too. I havent yet changed the fork oil but will do over Xmas. The brakes are as good as they will get with stock components and are still distinctly average. Master cylinder rebuilt, caliper rebuilt, new pads, and a new stainless steel braided (2 piece not 3) line. This is of course the key difference between old and new bikes.
Also the front wheel feels like it is out of balance so I will check that out too.
Luckily I have another bike to ride when this one is in bits again
List of parts I still need if you know of anyone with any bits in the shed:
Front mudguard complete
Fork ears left and right
Headlight bucket
Tacho
Left side sidecover small badge (red) - currently the bike has two right side badges and the left one faces backwards. It annoys me every time I see it.
I'd also like some dog leg levers - the straight ones arent span adjustable and I have small gynaecologists hands....
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
Ah annoying shit. I get that. Ducati for some reason rivet the vehicle ID badge to the lovely trellis frame smack on the right side of the bike in a really obvious place. Pissed me off and still does. In fact I was looking at the new V4 at Casbolts last weekend and bugger me there is one riveted to what little frame that bike has in a similar spot. A check of the shops range and yep - stupid plates in stupid places. How hard would it be to mount it somewhere less obvious.
Your bike is looking good. Yellow fuel lines?
Fuck don't get me started. ...... OK - when Phil did the work on the carbs he refitted and used some thick wall black fuel line. That fuel tap has two separate outlets for two separate fuel lines (main and reserve) to two separate inlets to the fuel rail that feeds the crabs. Long story short the black fuel line would not seal to the fuel tap because the wall thickness was too much between the outlet and fuel tap. Most modern fuel line is really thick wall and reinforced because modern vehicles are fuel injected. Anyway, the solution to "thin wall, flexible fuel safe line" is TYGON brand fuel line with matching clamps - which is that bright yellow stuff. Sourced from the Kart Store on Brougham Street after much googling. $15 a metre retail.
Also I pulled the fuel tap to bits to make sure the internal filter was clear and it leaks when put back together - oh, and the O ring to seal it appears to be some sort of proprietary part. I have one (and a new fuel tap) in my care package from David Silver. All part of the fun.
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
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