Some of that lever travel can be bought back with new, or even braided lines. Old Yams went very wooden when you put braided lines on them, but it was because the std rubber ones were rubbish. As said smaller master means more leverage.
I've lengthened clutch actuation levers on the engine side. Cant recall the old CB method, maybe a lever under the cover, might not be much room but 5-10mm makes a difference, as might be a better cable from venhil etc.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. The bike does have braided lines. Has done for a while. It has a new master cylinder. Single disk at the moment with second disk and new lower braided lines ready to go on. I've had the disks dilled as well. Levers are fitted and seem to do what I want. Just old age setting in I think. The clutch action has always been on the heavy side since I bought the bike in 1986. Throttle action is also heavy on these things due to the double return spring setup in the carb bank. Maybe they were just real men riding m/cs back then instead of liimp wristerd soyboys.
Research the mc size for dual disk models and single. Will be cast on cylinder underneath. Likely 1/2 (inch) and dual could be 5/8, or something like that but perhaps 14mm would be appropriate. Getting a period correct cylinder may be an ask though. WOF man will spot an obvious modification.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
These have lugs for the second disk so will cope ok. It's the set up old racers use looking at old magazines and the Clymer modification section recommends this. It got through the last WOF ok with the new m/c. M/c was easy to source from 4into1.com. It is the same one used on that era Kwakas. I've since fitted the old m/c cap which has patina ie looks old.
Just wondering around the interweb and came across a great site with parts break dpowns of a lot of older bikes. For the CB550/4 is this one https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550-fo...c3006a0a1c0e11 Good for getting part nos.
Out of curiousity I decided to give Amazon a go wrt getting bits n bobs for the CB. Ordered a HD 530 RK standard chain. Took a week to get here and cost $nz53 total. Not bad at all. It's two links longer but that's easy to rectify with 100mm grinding disk if I need to. Just waiting on the sprockets from Partzilla. Not that I need them straight away but I like to be prepared ahead of time instead of a last minute panic.
The new levers have made a big difference. It's a lot easier to disengage the clutch and apply the front brake around town.
Off for a wee toodle over to the wire wrapper today.
Awesome ride travelling some plumb and not so plumb back roads.
Over the Track and hang a right half way over through Mangamairi and off to Ekatahuna on SWH2, topped up. Over to Alfredton then left on to Popgaroa through to Webber. A few lose sheep and a dear prancing along. Heading to Dannyvages hit the Waitahora Valley Rd, Waitahora Rd then back on to Webber RDup to Dannyvagas. Stopped and had a look at the Suzuki shop
From there towards Woodville and turn left going down Oringi Rd, Jackson Rd then left at Hopelands Rd then a right after the bridge down River Rd, Left at Pahahika Rd then right on to Waituna Rd. Stopped for a picture shoot and a musli bar. Spoke to a chap from Corus who who came by was trying to find a customer. Back on the bike down Waituna road till you hit Kohiniu Rd. Right at Kohinui Rd and stay on that until you hit SH2 then left to Pahiatua. Visited the Suzuki/Kwaka shop at Pahiatua. Bit of a yarn with one of the chaps there. They are getting a Suzuki 500cc rotory up and running. Next will a Suzi GT750. Fuck I'd forgotten how ugly they look.
Back on the bike over the Pahiatua-Mangahoa Rd right on to Ballance Rd, on to Post Office Rd, Left on to Ballance Valley Rd, then over the Track to home. You can take a short cut from Ballance Rd to Ballance Valley Rd using Tararua Rd but that involves gravel all of the way.
I took a different riding approach this time just for the hell of it. Most of the time, apart from the gravel stretch, I just stayed in top gear using the breaks/engine braking\ to slow down. The CB pulls from 30kph to 100kph without much drama at all. I was surprised to get an extra 15kms from the tank compared to my usual riding style, or lack thereof. The Genius 2.1mp digital camera still does a reasonable job at taking photos.
Scored a .set of used dohc CB750f crash bars in TradeMe yesterday. I knew it was impacted on the left side but the doesn't matter. Turns out Al Hunt from Big Als Morotocycles was the seller. He works out of home these days. Popped around to his place this doday and had a wee natter. Then looked at spme of his old photos. Goot thing is he is only 10minutes walk from home.Went home and came up with a plan to hack the bars up for use on the CB . First side took a while but once I had it figured the second side took a third of the time. Its great to have good tools on hand. It makes the task a lot easier. Honda screwed and extra plate behind the flatinsh mounting plate to add extra stiffness to stop it twisting. I could've easily removed but decided not to.
All I needed to do was grind off the supporting tubing, clean up the U bars and bolt them straight on to the engine frame mounts. Just a bit it of ginding on the lower part of the lh U bar for a bit of clearance from the casings. Only the left side needed 10mm longer bolts. When I have it off next I'll elongate the top mount hole to bive even mopre clearance. This is something I always wanted to do ever since I bought the bike back in 1986. They are fitted. I scuffed then up with the power file ready to paint. They look like they were designed to fit the bike.
Now I can fit those forward controls I always wanted-NOT!
Your covered some roads we did on the very extended multi day return from Boxing day races. Many photos over the years outside Alfredton school. Just seems to be a good stop.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Great area to ride through, I've had a lot of fun there over the years.
The crash bars are looking pretty good!
It is. Plenty of room to park and stretch your legs. One time a wee ways south a tree branch had fallen across the road. You could see traffic had driven over parts of it. Our lot was heading north pulled over and dragged it off the road.
There are a few more road slippages from the last time I traveled from Alfredton to Pongaria with more to take place. 6-8inch drops in the road in some places so it pays to be wary.
Popped up town to refill the old girl to top up the fuel. It seems Gull did't get the memo as they were 4 cents dearer than any one ele. Caltex outlet just around the block. BP were very generous at .001 cents cheaper than the rest. Did a loop and back to my favourate Caltex station just around the block.
Not many bikes out apart from the usual Harley Furgusian rider with obnoxiously loud exhaust.
Edit-Did a nice wee evening toodle to finish the day off.
Edit-edit-The new spockets have reached Australia.
Went to a few bike shops today doing some tyre quotes. Whilst at City Honda I noticed a three LED lamp set up which will be ideal to use as driving lights around town drawing less current the the 55W low beam halogen bulb. It was only $20 so got it and proced up some Sinkos for the old dear. $20(not the $29.90 on the sticker) for a set is damn fantastic. Departed and headed home for some tinkering.
Fitting it to the bike was very straight forward and I mounted them under the bikini fairing. At first I couldn't found my soldering iron and figured it was in the boarders room. He was out and I don't like searching through other folks stuff so waited for him to come home. Waiting gave me a chance to recharge the battery powered drill as well get all the extra bits and bobs ready(remove fairing/headlight etc.). Herindoors had bought me one of those handy hand things with a gizillion clamps, a sponge bath. soldering iron holder and magnifying glass. A cool and useful piece of kit. I also removed the counter sprocket cover and give the area behind a good clean up while I was waiting for the iron to so up.
Acquired the soldering iron, flux and solder and proceeded to fit the LEDs to the fairing using the supplied mount with some sponge tape to take the curve of the fairing and act as a vibration damper, attach the wires to the bikes park light circuit, refit the headlight and fairing. I'm very pleased with the outcome. A few other niggley electrical things to sort out later.
Finally got the hang of using my mobile phone as a camera and sharing the pics from it.
No reason for an old shitter can't have modern components fitted so FUCK YOU Anoraks out there.
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