If I'm going to go near a dyno, there are the basic readings that need and I only tend to use dynojet dynos (personal preference is the 250).
The bike needs to be warmed up - so should be showing at least 80C water temp (or whatever the correct temp is for your machine). No point in going near the dyno if it isnt. Many bikes have special warm up procedures, pays to go thru them.
I expect the operator to do a couple of runs first, these are likely to be 4th gear or something. They are generally calibration runs.
I then do a gas analysis (air/fuel) run, showing all throttle settings - its needed to tell me about the power characteristics and any tuning I could do - for example jetting. I might do this in each gear, and I might also ask for different loads to be simulated.
Ideally I like to get a run done in each gear (rpm vs power). Its important to do it in each gear and use the same scale. I use these to work out your gearing and shift/gear change points (learning how to create overlap charts is important). For me, when I run a bike up - this is the most important one I need. It literally tells me how to ride the bike.
I like to also do a throttle response test as well from different throttle positions, but its only important if you are fine tuning a carb. To me, ballpark is good enough, I can tell often from the engine sound, if there is lag or over-run that obvious, then I'll take a look at the carbs more closely.
Also, take a memory stick and ask for the runfiles. You can use a dynojet reader to examine different info - you pay for the data, so may as well use it.
Finally remember that these type of dyno's are for tuning the whole bike (including final drive), not the engine. If you want to do specialist engine tuning, really should mount the engine in an engine dyno that runs off the crank or front sprocket (yes, there is a difference between a chassis dyno and engine dyno).
Thats my tuppence.
For show and go days, really you probably just want an all gear run done so you have an idea what the bike is doing - rpm, torque and power are good enough. A good dyno shop will take the time to explain the readings to you as well. Especially if they have taken readings from other bikes that are the same make/model/year.




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