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Thread: Ducati Cadet/Mountaineer

  1. #46
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    Right so I borrowed a truing stand off one of my Ulysses riding mates. I think it is older than him! Set it up in the kitchen, after my wife had gone to bed of course, and trued both new rims and spokes onto the old hubs…
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    Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laava View Post
    Right so I borrowed a truing stand off one of my Ulysses riding mates. I think it is older than him! Set it up in the kitchen, after my wife had gone to bed of course, and trued both new rims and spokes onto the old hubs…
    That stand is a superb bit of kit...
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
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    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  3. #48
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    I know! I damn near swapped him for the bike! Haha! I wish I had researched it now to find out about it….yeah I know, what a fucking anorak…
    Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!

  4. #49
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    I like it. I use the vice an axle and spacer and do it horizontally, but that's much better.

    What are the appendages at the front? Oh, for rim rubbing measurements I guess. I gerry rig a pointer, or sometimes a vivid.

    Then I'll put it in situation to centralise it which is easy once true.

    Electric Screwdriver has made the building stage much quicker. The wheels even take on a trueish form early on if carefully used.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  5. #50
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    I got them pretty close by just lying them flat while lacing up. I could not figure out what the appendage things are for. At no point are they anywhere near the wheel.
    Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!

  6. #51
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    Don't they pivot upwards to be closer on an arc?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  7. #52
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    You couldn't pivot them to get them closer to the wheel.. maybe they can be unbolted and then bolted back on the other side but why would they have been there in the first place? The guy that owns it is perplexed as well
    Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laava View Post
    You couldn't pivot them to get them closer to the wheel.. maybe they can be unbolted and then bolted back on the other side but why would they have been there in the first place? The guy that owns it is perplexed as well
    have you tried loosen the lock nut on the curved part? it should then tilt upwards, that's what it looks like to me.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
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    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  9. #54
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    Yeah but the feeler things are on the bottom and at no point come anywhere near the wheel.
    Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!

  10. #55
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    No, that looks quite usable. Slide the blade device out of the way and lift it up. Pointers can then be used. Blade thing gets slid up to measure up/down run-out. It's just in the storage position.
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  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    No, that looks quite usable. Slide the blade device out of the way and lift it up. Pointers can then be used. Blade thing gets slid up to measure up/down run-out. It's just in the storage position.
    Yeah that blade can show if the rim is running oval or cocked.
    Then with it moved up and the blade out of the way forward the two pointers become able to do the side run out.
    I wonder if it was made originally for spoked car wheels as it's very rugged looking.
    I think it's excellent a real class bit of old world kit.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  12. #57
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    Where did you get the spokes and rim? Are they make and model specific or generic? I'd like to lace up a hub for the KLR into an 18 inch rim, far bettter range of tyres, and Tubliss is available in 18, but not 17 size.
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    No, that looks quite usable. Slide the blade device out of the way and lift it up. Pointers can then be used. Blade thing gets slid up to measure up/down run-out. It's just in the storage position.
    OK, as it seems we are talking about different things, I have marked them to be clear. The knobs marked 1 I used to adjust sideways runout. The things marked 2 come nowhere near the wheel at any time. No idea what they are for.
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  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Where did you get the spokes and rim? Are they make and model specific or generic? I'd like to lace up a hub for the KLR into an 18 inch rim, far bettter range of tyres, and Tubliss is available in 18, but not 17 size.
    I got them from ebay. As they were std size, the spokes were a given. Not sure how you would find out how to size the new spokes but the internet may be your friend there?
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  15. #60
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    i suspect the arms marked 2 have a block of wood under them when the moving pieces are in the up position.

    Most wheel builders buy unthreaded spokes. Cut to required length and thread to suit.
    If it's a standard hub/rim combo and the factory still lists spokes as available that does save time.

    Big question when building a wheel is the offset. Not fun to find the new wheels can't be brought into alignment.
    Not all hub/rim combos share a centerline.

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