500cc GP Replica thread

[onearmedbandit]

Looks like a 3MA reverse cylinder frame. A mate has the RZ and the frame, pipes, usd forks 17" wheels.
Just needs to sew them together. No rush. Been in his lounge for 20 years.

Some of the build info is in the description on YT

Yamaha TZR 4DL frame with V5
Yamaha TZR 4DL Belgrade tank - Made in Italy
Kawasaki ZXR 750 swing arm
Suzuki GSXR front forks with gold nitrate plated tubes
Yamaha RD500 engine beautifully made to fit with a cradle in the frame and modded with output of around 100hp on the back wheel
Zeeltronic ignition system
BDK racing lightened rotor
YZR500 body kit
Rear brake on left side like thumb brake style
Brembo 19RCS brake cylinder on the front brake
JLs YZR exhaust system in stainless steel
Ducati GP quick releases, koyo small speed dash with old school YZR500 style rpm and voltage in dash.
Price 20k pounds firm - plus delivery

Contact me for sale - Samronjude@gmail.com
+447933838680

[F5 Dave]

Ah, the 4dl is the 125. But actually it was some Italian tie up. They basically used the 3MA frame and built a 125 for Yamaha Belgarda or something like that. The SZR660 was a similar arrangement apparently.

[husaberg]

Ah, the 4dl is the 125. But actually it was some Italian tie up. They basically used the 3MA frame and built a 125 for Yamaha Belgarda or something like that. The SZR660 was a similar arrangement apparently.

yeah they also by the looks of it either used brembo wheels or at least the mold on all the Yamahas of the period either made in Italy or Japan and I guess ended up buying brembo and then Ohlins. The Ohlins on My 851 were afaik only ever used on Bimotas and works Yamaha's and Cagiva who shared tech engines and designs.
the 6 Bolt Yamaha discs even going back to the RD A's and XS650 all had the same bolt pattern as the 90's to early 2000's Dukes.
the 660 was I believe an idea direct from the Italians after the build a semi works sos racer from a Tenere desert bike. (pirovani?)


the R6/R1 Blue spots I think have the same pads as a similar era Brembo gold 4 pt. One Pin
Brembo even made a caliper in Yamaha bolt spacing for the XJR. std brembo is 40mm or 65mm for Ducati




where as Yamaha is edit 100mm were those Yamaha the same RZ or I think those triumph calipers you were selling a while back 100 or? or 83mm?
so if you wanted to you could bolt on 4 pot brembos to a 90s Yamaha like a 87 tZR250 or 90's FZR250-1000 to replace the simototo? calipers without an adaptor as long as you used the ones from a XJR400R or XJR1300R.

[F5 Dave]

I fitted Blue spots to my yzf750SP, just tickle off a flashing and use the smaller mc. Ran Aprilia discs when yam warped.

[SaferRides]

the R6/R1 Blue spots I think have the same pads as a similar era Brembo gold 4 pt. One Pin
Brembo even made a caliper in Yamaha bolt spacing for the XJR. std brembo is 40mm or 65mm for Ducati
.

The current model R1 uses the same pads, along with some others like the MT10, so there are plenty of pad options.

The gold spots fitted to the 02-03 R1 are the ones to go for as they have ceramic coated pistons. Nice.

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[husaberg]

The current model R1 uses the same pads, along with some others like the MT10, so there are plenty of pad options.

The gold spots fitted to the 02-03 R1 are the ones to go for as they have ceramic coated pistons. Nice.

Sent from my SM-S906E using Tapatalk

Not sure but weren't the pistons ti?

[SaferRides]

Not sure but wern't the pistons ti?

They are a dull grey colour, similar to an AFAM aluminium rear sprocket, which has a hard coating. They are quite thick, so I'd guess they are aluminium but maybe not ceramic coated.

Google wasn't much help but apparently aluminium pistons are a Bad Thing in brake callipers because they transfer heat well. Might explain a couple of experiences I've had!

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[F5 Dave]

That makes sense re ally. For some reason my old H100 bucket had a ally piston that Kev the old owner mahoned up for some reason lost to time. It was after he gave me the bike as it was converted to disc in my care, and I probably paid for it.
Maybe I'd exclaimed the rust damage and he offered to make one. I do recall being surprised at being ally as I'd only ever seen Ferrous material. It was castellated so less contact area on pads. Worked just fine on an 80 kilo bucket.

[SaferRides]

I can buy castellated s/s pistons from Europe for ridiculous money, which is probably the best material to reduce heat transfer. But not for street use, and anyway, I'd change to 320 mm discs if I ever upgrade the brakes.

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[husaberg]

They are a dull grey colour, similar to an AFAM aluminium rear sprocket, which has a hard coating. They are quite thick, so I'd guess they are aluminium but maybe not ceramic coated.

Google wasn't much help but apparently aluminium pistons are a Bad Thing in brake callipers because they transfer heat well. Might explain a couple of experiences I've had!

Sent from my SM-S906E using Tapatalk

That makes sense re ally. For some reason my old H100 bucket had a ally piston that Kev the old owner mahoned up for some reason lost to time. It was after he gave me the bike as it was converted to disc in my care, and I probably paid for it.
Maybe I'd exclaimed the rust damage and he offered to make one. I do recall being surprised at being ally as I'd only ever seen Ferrous material. It was castellated so less contact area on pads. Worked just fine on an 80 kilo bucket.

yip according to this
good stuff here also

I had forgotten the real early R1 had those blue spots with the horrible external line.

The blue are steel the gold are alloy ceramic coated would make sense as this would stop the hurt being transformed to he alloy.
looks like the seals wear faster n the golds but are cheaper and you can put gold pistons in the blue calipers
Also it seems the tools to undo the ends are available as well as the piston extractor toos for the other side.

looks like someone does newer r1 in ti castleated
https://titanclassics.com/product/yz...liper-pistons/

[F5 Dave]

No they didn't have external lines. The Thunderace had external lines. By the R1 they had disappeared.

People made the mistake of not changing the 5/8" mc most bikes of that era had for the 14mm, reducing the benefit possible.

[husaberg]

No they didn't have external lines. The Thunderace had external lines. By the R1 they had disappeared.

People made the mistake of not changing the 5/8" mc most bikes of that era had for the 14mm, reducing the benefit possible.

yeah totally right you are, I forgot those hideous pair of thunderthighs.

According to all the TZR ikt stuff I have read For a single bluespot/goldspot supposed to be the butter zone of 1/2"/12.7mm , but not sure what that translates to in a radial MC.
My sons Supermoto has a beautiful Motomaster billet 4 and tiny radial (both in 11mm and later 12mm) 320mm full floating rotor with either it's a magic combo. But right on the limit at Ruapuna for fade as it doesn't get any cooling air tucked behind the forks and inside the fat tire/rim. I think a cooling scoop would fix it (but it fails on looking cool to the 20 year old)

Brembo on the 30/34 recommend 13mm for a single and 16mm for the twins. Which I think is just fractional larger than 5/8/15.8mm
My CR5AF Supermoto had a Honda RS125 Brembo and Nissin MC set up it felt perfect.

I once tried out someones bike that had far to small a Mc, it didn't shift enough flulid ,its was a hard pull with a shit amount of power. worst of everything.

http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm

[F5 Dave]

Wrong way around or confused.

A small mc will indeed shift less fluid for the travel. A too big one will have a stiff lever and crucially Less leverage. That produces less power at the caliper.

Smaller may come right into the bar. Braided lines improve that over rubber, there will be mondo leverage but too small feels like it can't be bled properly.

[SaferRides]

yip according to this
good stuff here also

I had forgotten the real early R1 had those blue spots with the horrible external line.

The blue are steel the gold are alloy ceramic coated would make sense as this would stop the hurt being transformed to he alloy.
looks like the seals wear faster n the golds but are cheaper and you can put gold pistons in the blue calipers
Also it seems the tools to undo the ends are available as well as the piston extractor toos for the other side.

looks like someone does newer r1 in ti castleated
https://titanclassics.com/product/yz...liper-pistons/

All interesting stuff. I bought the gold spots off a very low mileage 02-03 R1 - they still had a set of original, barely worn Sumitomo pads! But the pistons were quite sticky and didn't retract properly, so I pumped them partly out, cleaned, and gave them a very thin smear of brake grease. All good after that, but one pad had worn unevenly when I changed them at the weekend so it may be time for new seals.

I might pass on the Ti pistons!

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[F5 Dave]

Pop the seals out and clean out the white gunge that grows behind and pushes the seals out causing drag.

Inspect seals under a magnifying glass . Use an appropriatepick and dont skewer them. Usually the seals remain square and sharp so aren't actually worn, unless they are.

It's the outer dust seals that can be twisted. Inspect carefully.

Brass chimney sweep penny on a stick brushes on a dremmel work great. Eye protection and brake clean, dry before putting seals back in.