Tubeless

[diesel pig]

I am looking at getting some tubeless fitting Kits for my post-classic sproked wheels 18-1.85 / 18-2.15. Has anyone had experience with OUTEX brand tubless kits, they are all over Ebay?

[SaferRides]

Looks interesting. I assume you've seen this review? https://ultimatemotorcycling.com/2023/05/05/outex-tubeless-kit-review-tube-to-tube-free-conversion/#:~:text=Since%20the%20fine%2Dtuning%20of,single%2 0wheel%20kit%20is%20$70.

The problem I can see is what happens if you have a slow leak and lose pressure to the point where the bead doesn't seal. You would want to carry a small compressor rather than CO2 cartridges.

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[timg]

I am looking at getting some tubeless fitting Kits for my post-classic sproked wheels 18-1.85 / 18-2.15. Has anyone had experience with OUTEX brand tubless kits, they are all over Ebay?

Gidday DP. I fitted them to my Yamaha T700 rims. They were easy to install and worked flawlessly for the time I had the T7. Cheers.

[diesel pig]

Gidday DP. I fitted them to my Yamaha T700 rims. They were easy to install and worked flawlessly for the time I had the T7. Cheers.

Good to know. They were not a problem to fit?

Sorry, Re-read your your post and see you all ready mection that. Cheers

[diesel pig]

I want to fit them to newly laced Alloy rims. I figure that will be the best time to get a good seal. Hoping I am right about that.

[diesel pig]

Ok, The OUTEX tubeless kits are on their way, I have started tracking down the Alloy rims I will need. I have sproken to the wheel builder in ChCh and he will make the stainless sprokes for my set of wheels when I get him to build the wheels. So that is taken care of. I am keen to use Ceramic Ball Bearings in the hubs and cush drive but after checking out microbluebearing*, They only do 3 of the 5 ball bears I will need. So I am wondering if it is worth getting the the 3 microbluebearing Ceramic Ball Bearings and using 2 steel ball bearings? or is that a waste of time and money? Also is there another trustworthy maker of Ceramic Ball Bearings I could use to do the job?

*They are a outfit that Wobbly recommends and he's a man who will not put up with crap quality. He also warned that alot of proported Ceramic Ball Bearings were fake and you had to be careful of which ones you use.

[SaferRides]

I'd keep them all the same, but maybe that's just my OCD!

Personally, I would use good quality steel bearings. While ceramic bearings are superior in some ways, I doubt that the extra cost is worth it for this application.

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[diesel pig]

I'd keep them all the same, but maybe that's just my OCD!

Personally, I would use good quality steel bearings. While ceramic bearings are superior in some ways, I doubt that the extra cost is worth it for this application.

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My OCD at the moment is trying to lower the rolling resistance of my T350 so I can get the best result from the engine mods I want to do to get the best fuel economy without affecting it's present performance. All I have read have said that ceramic ball bearings do lower rolling resistance by a measure amount.

[husaberg]

My OCD at the moment is trying to lower the rolling resistance of my T350 so I can get the best result from the engine mods I want to do to get the best fuel economy without affecting it's present performance. All I have read have said that ceramic ball bearings do lower rolling resistance by a measure amount.

Well if your ocd is that bad I would say the seals eat more HP than the bearings.. Swap out to single lip teflon and ditch the sealed bearings
Pump up the ntire a bit to much, drop the carbs down to 24-26 pretty sure RZ 350s only had 26mm VM's.
Use triangular profile tires.
put in chain oiler like I posted here