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Thread: Tubeless

  1. #1
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    Tubeless

    I am looking at getting some tubeless fitting Kits for my post-classic sproked wheels 18-1.85 / 18-2.15. Has anyone had experience with OUTEX brand tubless kits, they are all over Ebay?
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  2. #2
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    Looks interesting. I assume you've seen this review? https://ultimatemotorcycling.com/2023/05/05/outex-tubeless-kit-review-tube-to-tube-free-conversion/#:~:text=Since%20the%20fine%2Dtuning%20of,single%2 0wheel%20kit%20is%20$70.

    The problem I can see is what happens if you have a slow leak and lose pressure to the point where the bead doesn't seal. You would want to carry a small compressor rather than CO2 cartridges.

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by diesel pig View Post
    I am looking at getting some tubeless fitting Kits for my post-classic sproked wheels 18-1.85 / 18-2.15. Has anyone had experience with OUTEX brand tubless kits, they are all over Ebay?
    Gidday DP. I fitted them to my Yamaha T700 rims. They were easy to install and worked flawlessly for the time I had the T7. Cheers.
    Sometimes you wish it was easier, but if it was, everyone else would do it, then you remember you don't want to be like everybody else!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by timg View Post
    Gidday DP. I fitted them to my Yamaha T700 rims. They were easy to install and worked flawlessly for the time I had the T7. Cheers.
    Good to know. They were not a problem to fit?

    Sorry, Re-read your your post and see you all ready mection that. Cheers
    Last edited by diesel pig; 3rd December 2025 at 07:51. Reason: Maded c--k up
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  5. #5
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    SaferRides

    I want to fit them to newly laced Alloy rims. I figure that will be the best time to get a good seal. Hoping I am right about that.
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  6. #6
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    Progress slowly

    Ok, The OUTEX tubeless kits are on their way, I have started tracking down the Alloy rims I will need. I have sproken to the wheel builder in ChCh and he will make the stainless sprokes for my set of wheels when I get them to him to build the wheels. So that is taken care of. I am keen to use Ceramic Ball Bearings in the hubs and cush drive but after checking out microbluebearing*, They only do 3 of the 5 ball bears I will need. So I am wondering if it is worth getting the the 3 microbluebearing Ceramic Ball Bearings and using 2 steel ball bearings? or is that a waste of time and money? Also is there another trustworthy maker of Ceramic Ball Bearings I could use to do the job?

    *They are a outfit that Wobbly recommends and he's a man who will not put up with crap quality. He also warned that alot of proported Ceramic Ball Bearings were fake and you had to be careful of which ones you use.
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  7. #7
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    I'd keep them all the same, but maybe that's just my OCD!

    Personally, I would use good quality steel bearings. While ceramic bearings are superior in some ways, I doubt that the extra cost is worth it for this application.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SaferRides View Post
    I'd keep them all the same, but maybe that's just my OCD!

    Personally, I would use good quality steel bearings. While ceramic bearings are superior in some ways, I doubt that the extra cost is worth it for this application.

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    My OCD at the moment is trying to lower the rolling resistance of my T350 so I can get the best result from the engine mods I want to do to get the best fuel economy without affecting it's present performance. All I have read have said that ceramic ball bearings do lower rolling resistance by a measured amount.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by diesel pig View Post
    My OCD at the moment is trying to lower the rolling resistance of my T350 so I can get the best result from the engine mods I want to do to get the best fuel economy without affecting it's present performance. All I have read have said that ceramic ball bearings do lower rolling resistance by a measure amount.

    Well if your ocd is that bad I would say the seals eat more HP than the bearings.. Swap out to single lip teflon and ditch the sealed bearings
    Pump up the ntire a bit to much, drop the carbs down to 24-26 pretty sure RZ 350s only had 26mm VM's.
    Use triangular profile tires.
    put in chain oiler like I posted here



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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    put in chain oiler like I posted here
    Unlike most chain oilers, that actually makes sense.

    Not an issue on a T350, but I'd say brake pad drag is usually more of an issue than the wheel bearings. The front wheel on the R1 will spin for a while with the calipers removed, but slows very quickly after they are refitted.



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  11. #11
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    Yeah, The T350 has drum brakes front and rear. Set up well have no drag at all and work well the first time you use them. It depends on how much time has passed on wither they work as well the second time you use them.
    I have a chain oiler in my shed off another bike I had. Maybe worth having a look at it, if I can fit it out of site on the T350. It may be worth using.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by diesel pig View Post
    Yeah, The T350 has drum brakes front and rear. Set up well have no drag at all and work well the first time you use them. It depends on how much time has passed on wither they work as well the second time you use them.
    I have a chain oiler in my shed off another bike I had. Maybe worth having a look at it, if I can fit it out of site on the T350. It may be worth using.
    O ring chains take a lot of power compared to non sealed, but the convenience outweighs the downsides
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    O ring chains take a lot of power compared to non sealed, but the convenience outweighs the downsides
    Two chains have lasted 50,000 km on the R1, and the second, an EK 3D, is still going strong. I'll take convenience, thanks.

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