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Thread: Running in VTR250?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    2nd August 2005 - 17:11
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    Bullyvard M109RZ
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    Running in VTR250?

    Howdy all, picked up my new bike yesterday and wanted to know what people's version of running it in should be?

    Currently I'm only doing 1/4 throttle to 4-5rpms.

    I'm going to ring the shop I bought it from as I forgot to ask them about running it in and the manual is all in JAP.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    10th February 2005 - 21:49
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    06 10 WITH ALL THE FANCY BITS
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    Been discussed before.

    See the evidence for yourself:

    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

    Have a look at that site, many mechs I have talked to reckoned that method was the best as well.

    edit: basically rape the living shiet outta it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    1st February 2004 - 11:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bulldog
    Howdy all, picked up my new bike yesterday and wanted to know what people's version of running it in should be?

    Currently I'm only doing 1/4 throttle to 4-5rpms.

    I'm going to ring the shop I bought it from as I forgot to ask them about running it in and the manual is all in JAP.
    Congrads on the new bike mate, sweet choice.
    Just ride the bike as if it had 10,000k on it.... but no redlining and no labouring it (loading the motor up at low revs) and avoid sitting at the same revs for to long, enjoy man.
    cheers DD
    (Definately Dodgy)



  4. #4
    Join Date
    15th March 2004 - 13:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by tristank
    Been discussed before.

    See the evidence for yourself:

    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

    Have a look at that site, many mechs I have talked to reckoned that method was the best as well.

    edit: basically rape the living shiet outta it
    Dont listen to this man if you want to keep your warranty.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    2nd August 2005 - 17:11
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    Bullyvard M109RZ
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    West Auckland
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    Thus the problem with this type of question Two completely different opinions.

    I personally tend towards the keep the revs lower and don't labour it for the first 1000kms and keep changing the revs.

    The real question I have is this, I wanted to head to coromandel this weekend on the bikes but doing 100kph is approx 7000-8000rpms on the vtr and I'm wondering wether this is a good thing to be doing considering it'll have about 200-300 kms on it by the weekend.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    15th March 2004 - 13:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bulldog
    Thus the problem with this type of question Two completely different opinions.

    I personally tend towards the keep the revs lower and don't labour it for the first 1000kms and keep changing the revs.

    The real question I have is this, I wanted to head to coromandel this weekend on the bikes but doing 100kph is approx 7000-8000rpms on the vtr and I'm wondering wether this is a good thing to be doing considering it'll have about 200-300 kms on it by the weekend.
    It'll be fine, as mentioned earlier, dont redline it/thrash it/labour it.
    Just ride casually.

    Its not really opinion, its choice.
    Thrash the thing straight away, possibly end up with more power while risking the chance of warranty claims being declined if shit happened.
    Or run it in like the manufacturers suggests (ie, not giving it a hiding) and keep the warranty.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    5th April 2005 - 12:57
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    Strange the manual isn't with the bike.

    On my bike it went something like this:

    First 600 (or was it 900km?), keep the engine rpm below 6,000, redline is 12,500 rpm. Don't let engine struggle in low rpm and try not to go above 6,000. Expose engine to different riding stresses. Do some flat town riding, some faster pace riding and some hill workouts. Vary the rpm and it's loading. Never use more than half throttle.

    Once you've passed the above km figure, the new rpm limit is 9,000.
    Still ride as above but within the newer rpm range. Continue like this till you've done 1600km. After that, it's all yours, though I still went light for a bit longer.

    Run mineral oil during this period and always replace oil filter at same time as oil change - shop will do changes anyway due to your warranty cover. Once bike is run in, switch to either semi or fully synthetic oil because you've finished wearing it in. You'll feel constant but slight changes in your engine for the first 5,000 km as everything settles.

    Your first few oil changes are very very important. They'll be full of metal shavings and you don't want that floating around inside for too long.

    Good luck and enjoy your new ride.
    90% of the time spent writing this post was spent thinking of something witty to say. It may have been wasted.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    2nd August 2005 - 17:11
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    Well I just spoke with the shop and they said feel free to rev it just don't thrash it. Oil and filter and 500kms.

    I'm off for the weekend!!!

  9. #9
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    15th November 2004 - 12:53
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    97 Yamaha Virago
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    Cool

    Bulldog - check out the thread on here "Coro Loop warning" thread in General Raving section... started by Marty today.

    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...ad.php?t=19234

    There is gonna be heaps of pushcyclists on the coro loop this weekend... so do be careful.

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