My new bike

[bikerboy]

In inglese " what are you thinking?"

i'm happy for you getting a new bike that you love, but to go from a ducati to a suzuki..........i'm disappointed. Someone has to keep buying the impractical, quirky, overpriced italian bikes or they'll go the way of the dinosaurs.

we might as well all become engineers......no offence meant ck.

[duckman]

In inglese " what are you thinking?"

i'm happy for you getting a new bike that you love, but to go from a ducati to a suzuki..........i'm disappointed. Someone has to keep buying the impractical, quirky, overpriced italian bikes or they'll go the way of the dinosaurs.

we might as well all become engineers......no offence meant ck.

I completely understand. However I couldn't afford a 916/996/998 and I really wanted some more horses. Now I will start saving for the next step up!!

It's a slow process to getting your dream bike but it you do it in small steps, you get there eventually.

[Coldkiwi]

so you're saying its architects that will finance impractical and cost over run projects? sounds right! )

Good to see ya back here BB.

I've always had a soft spot for TLRs. ungainly maybe but they look wicked and are probably more than capable enough on the road.

[DEATH_INC.]

The TLR isn't a bad old mule....with the exception of the rear shock.You'll save heaps on tyres if you change it to a conventional type unit.My mates trying a Hagon unit in his (got it about a week ago)or of course there's always Ohlins......
Try this site for the best standard setup http://tl1000.ichos.com/jamie/page1.htm
And don't let anyone convince you to put a 180 on the rear,stick with that 190.....

DOH! that link doesn't work anymore.....I'll see if I can find the info elswhere....This is THE setup for TLR's......

[duckman]

The TLR isn't a bad old mule....with the exception of the rear shock.You'll save heaps on tyres if you change it to a conventional type unit.My mates trying a Hagon unit in his (got it about a week ago)or of course there's always Ohlins......
Try this site for the best standard setup http://tl1000.ichos.com/jamie/page1.htm
And don't let anyone convince you to put a 180 on the rear,stick with that 190.....

DOH! that link doesn't work anymore.....I'll see if I can find the info elswhere....This is THE setup for TLR's......

Why would I want to move down from that big gorgous 190 ??

[DEATH_INC.]

Why would I want to move down from that big gorgous 190 ??

A lot of people are fooled into thinking that a 180 makes the bike turn better....

[duckman]

A lot of people are fooled into thinking that a 180 makes the bike turn better....

Oh ..o.k.

I haven't stress tested it on the twisties yet, so I'll have to wait and see.

[Coldkiwi]

a curious enginer posts...
reducing tyre width works to speed up steering on most road bikes. why not a TLR? I don't understand! I know it obviously sacrifices some grip with the reduced contact patch but i don't know how it can't help the steering (or are you saying the change is small enough not to be worthwhile?)

[DEATH_INC.]

a curious enginer posts...
reducing tyre width works to speed up steering on most road bikes. why not a TLR? I don't understand! I know it obviously sacrifices some grip with the reduced contact patch but i don't know how it can't help the steering (or are you saying the change is small enough not to be worthwhile?)

Work it out....the smaller tyre makes the bike lean over easier,not turn faster.It makes the rear turn in more thereby creating understeer.......

[duckman]

Wahhooooo This should become quite the engineering argument!!

Could I just mention - I'm really loving this puppy!!!

[bikerboy]

"Could I just mention - I'm really loving this puppy!!! [/QUOTE]"

Great, glad you got something that exicts you. nothing better than a new bike, except for a new bike that doesn't disappoint!

Hope to see you on the run to Paeroa this weekend. I'll be one of the lazy pants bikers leaving at the last minute.

[duckman]

"Could I just mention - I'm really loving this puppy!!!

"

Great, glad you got something that exicts you. nothing better than a new bike, except for a new bike that doesn't disappoint!

Hope to see you on the run to Paeroa this weekend. I'll be one of the lazy pants bikers leaving at the last minute. [/QUOTE]

Hell yea - I'll be there. I'm joing the crowd leaving from Greenlane at 9:30(ish)

[DEATH_INC.]

OK managed to find them courtesy of one of the guys on the Gixxer site.
Here you go:
Adjust the suspension and raise the forks so 12-13mm show above the top yoke (not including fork cap) .... IMPORTANT TO DO BOTH TOGETHER..... as the geometry adjustment gives neutral steering but also changes weight distribution, so affecting suspension settings.I'm assuming that you want to get the best out of your standard suspension without going to the expense of major changes.Do not raise the forks past 15 mm or the mudguard hits the radiator under heavy braking. REMEMBER to put a jack or some sort of adjustable support under the engine before loosening off the triple clamp/yoke bolts!

Do yourself a favour dump the standard steering damper and buy yourself a good quality replacement such as Ohlins. Underneath the standard steering damper is a great motorcycle just fighting to get out.


Here's the road and race settings... great handling, neutral steering...... a fast easy to ride bike. The TL-R is a very sensitive bike to suspension and ride height changes.



ROAD SETTINGS: This gives you good feel and composure over the typical bumpy country lanes we have here in the UK. If your roads are smooth as they are in France...... you'd be better off running the RACE settings.

Tyre Pressures: Front 36 PSI Rear 36 PSI

FRONT Suspension Settings:

Spring Preload: 4 Lines showing (fourth line should just show above cap)

Compression Damping: 10 clicks out from fully in

Rebound Damping: 5 clicks out from fully in

REAR Suspension Settings:

Spring Preload: 6 threads showing on top side of the thread below the lock ring i.e. two full turns from standard. Mark one of the castellations on the adjuster ring with a felt tip and add two full turns more preload.

Compression Damping: 18 clicks out from fully in

Rebound Damping: 15 clicks out from fully in



RACETRACK SETTINGS: Good control and feedback for Trackdays and Club Racing using the standard suspension.

Tyre Pressures: Front 32 PSI Rear 32 PSI

FRONT Suspension Settings:

Spring Preload: 4 Lines showing (fourth line should just show above cap)

Compression Damping: 4 clicks out from fully in

Rebound Damping: 3 clicks out from fully in

REAR Suspension Settings:

Spring Preload: 6 threads showing on top side of the thread below the lock ring i.e. two full turns from standard. Mark one of the castellations on the adjuster ring with a felt tip and add two full turns more preload.

Compression Damping: 7 clicks out from fully in

Rebound Damping: 10 clicks out from fully in


These aren't Ideal for everyone of course,but are considered to be the best place to start by most of the tiller gurus

[duckman]

Awesome - Thanks very much for that.

I'll have to ask Dave nicely if he'll give me a hand. Wot with all those tools and everything....

Dave ???

[Dave]

Work it out....the smaller tyre makes the bike lean over easier,not turn faster.It makes the rear turn in more thereby creating understeer.......

What a load of BULLSHIT!

The rear can't 'turn in' because it trails the front. and understeer is where the front doesn't turn as sharp as intended so how can the lean angle on the rear have anything to do with this?