Either crap from the clutch, or more likely water in there, possibly from some chode using a water blaster around the output sprocket and forcing crap/water inside
Either crap from the clutch, or more likely water in there, possibly from some chode using a water blaster around the output sprocket and forcing crap/water inside
Matty C
Have you taken your bike over any sweet jumps?
With the milky oil thing it's probably the water pump seal, you may have to replace the impellor shaft as well if that's worn. Not a big deal and shouldn't cost the earth.
As for the ATF in the gearbox. I'd stick with motul transoil or something similar in a KDX250, you're not going to gain a lot with the switch except increasing your maintenance frequency and costs.
Originally Posted by k14
Serious how often do you change the oil in your RS myne always comes out looking almost new and what sort of oil are you running im using spectro clutch saver
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Originally Posted by Ivan
I used to use spectro clutch saver, but went over to castrol Atf, seems to work mint, and a shitload cheaper
Matty C
Have you taken your bike over any sweet jumps?
Running ATF in two stroke gear boxes and in the forks used to be common.Originally Posted by Brian d'marge
I always wondered why, though - is it cheaper or summat?
Being as how the average motorcycle takes a relatively small amount of gearbox oil, I always use the best and change it often...
Originally Posted by Mattyc
Was that in a RS125 I got a deal through Spectro anyway so I get it ultra cheap
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Mercedes Benz were specifying ATF in manual boxes in the 60s,I thought it kinda strange at the time,but then it became more and more common.When the Ford Lazer first came out they had shift problems,and their solution was ATF.It has more in common with rotating gears and multiplate clutches than engine oil,but so long as it doesn't effect the clutch almost any oil will do,even EP diff oils work,but you can get clutch drag and slow shifts.
Actualy I've got to change the oil in my DT soon....and I don't know what I'll use,still thinking about that one.
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Hi Adamt, I have the same trouble with my Harley, but not in the oil. Its more in the airfilter & hoses. I think its the sludge build up from condensation in the atmosphere that builds up through heating up then cooling down. Sometimes the oil does have a white tinge to it which could also be the break down of the deposits of the oil components. There is a difference between synthetic & mineral oils in the way they react though heat and also to remember not to mix two different oil kinds.
I'm not a mechanic but I beleive this could be your problem, let me know what happens. Graham :spudbn:
;yes
I normally do it once every 2 years but sometimes sooner if i feel like it.Originally Posted by Ivan
Yeah I really believe you there I dont think a RS will last that long before Siezing, I change myne every 2 rounds
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Not changing the gearbox oil won't make it sieze. It will just root all of the bearings in the gearbox cavity and make gear changes very inaccurate. I change it every 2 or 3 meetings. It could have been sucking a little water through as the water pump seal was blown, just in the process of putting some new ones in. I use maxima stuff, seems to be pretty good but all the other guys use the 10w shell advance and swear by it so I will probably change to that when my current bottles run out.Originally Posted by Ivan
No I ment before 2 years are up the motor will have siezed yeah I use spectroOriginally Posted by k14
Blindspott are back as Blacklist check them out
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Scott Oiler oil is ATF as well.Originally Posted by Motu
Long live the mighty all porpoise ATF!
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