(Noob) chain maintenance

[RantyDave]

OK, due to the "Bugger me, bike troubles" thread I'm now concerned about chains getting knackered and going pop.

I lube mine every couple of weeks, it doesn't appear to make any nasty noises (or as best I can tell any noise at all) and appears to be in mechanically fine condition. Ditto the sprockets ... again, from what I can tell, but I suspect it's under a fair bit more load than a mountain bike.

The chain is messy though. Really damn gunky and adding more spray on lube doesn't appear to be helping. I'm also concerned about chain tension - I suspect there's a bit too much slack in the system and the adjusters, which look like they're going to be a bitch to use, are on their slackest setting.

Can anyone give me some chain maintenance advice? Is it realistic to take it off and clean it, if so how? How much slack should I have and what happens if it's too much/not enough?

Dave

[bugjuice]

This might help a little.. It'll tell you how to clean your chain and how to adjust it to the right slackness. Rule of thumb seems to be an inch of up-down travel at the tightest spot in the chain.

[duckman]

I won't answer all your questions (as I'm busy working), but in reference to the cleaning lubing bit ... Get some chain cleaner or Meths and a rag and remove all the "Gunk" from the chain before you add anymore lube.

The chain lube will always pick up road grime, dust, mud e.t.c. and this is not good for your chain.

The adjustment process I'll leave to somone else to explain.

[The Stranger:Me]

What do you use to lubricate the chain?

I tried a Putoline product Makes a bloody mess, flicks everywhere, picks up grit real quick, the chain looks filthy and when you look at the wear surfaces there is no product on them after a very short while.

The Spectro SX Chain Wax on the other hand sticks to the chain like shit to a blanket (provided it is allowed to set off), doesn't pick up FA grit, and seems to last longer on the wear surfaces.

I clean the chain with kerosene every second weekend (about 1000k - 1500k) dry it with a rag, reset the tension if necessary then re lube.

[R1madness]

Hmm good tips but an inch is a bit conservitave on slack. I would consider about 35mm (inch and a half) about right. It pays to turn the wheel a few times checking the tension as you go as chains often devolip a "tight spot" and do your adjustments at this point. By the way its not really a tight spot only the point where the chain has worn the least. As for chain lube if you dont like the mess try BELRAY SUPERCLEAN. It is a waxy spray that sets to look like the grease that came on your chain when it was new. It stays clean and doesn't fling off once set.
As for how to adjust just do a search. There will be several posts about how to...

[thehollowmen]

Sounds good .. I used to use a castrol chain oil but it sucked. Had to reapply it more than I filled the gas tank.

now I use .. shell I think? yellow and grey tube... but it is outside in the shed. Sticky stuff, makes a mess if you spin the wheels after putting it on. Comes out of the can in a pink foam too.

Anyways, your routine sounds good but I'd probably add in 'clean with kero and adjust and lube' every 1 (or 2-3 in the real world) megameters (thousand kilometers),

Unless your bike is a four stroke two fiddy that you're riding every day and then ya can change that to 3-5 megameters because you won't be stressing the chain or letting it sit for too long.

[RantyDave]

Thanks guys. Will "invest" in a toothbrush and some degreaser then spend a happy afternoon in the sun getting all the crap off the chain. Finally.

BTW, am using "golden spectro total tac synthetic" which appears to be a thick gunky foam. In future I'll pay attention to letting it set properly before running the bike.

Thanks again,
Dave

[thehollowmen]

Thanks guys. Will "invest" in a toothbrush and some degreaser then spend a happy afternoon in the sun getting all the crap off the chain. Finally.

BTW, am using "golden spectro total tac synthetic" which appears to be a thick gunky foam. In future I'll pay attention to letting it set properly before running the bike.

Thanks again,
Dave

Don't get a degreaser .. just use kero (I don't know about meths but that should be ok)
Any non-polar solvents will eat the Orings in oring chains.

[R1madness]

Don't get a degreaser .. just use kero (I don't know about meths but that should be ok)
Any non-polar solvents will eat the Orings in oring chains.

Do not use METHS. It will dry out the orings.

[Fordy]

.. just use kero

Yes yes yes

[thehollowmen]

Do not use METHS. It will dry out the orings.

thank you.. that's what I thought meths would do but I've seen it flouted around here too often.

Can't be as bad as xylene though..

Kero people, please stick to kero.

[Troll]

use a scottoiler & good quality o ring chain

had one on my bike for about 9 years

just refil it with oil and check chain adjustment every service

chains last for years

[rocketman1]

I have a reasonably good clean chain I use Scott Oiler oil, my mate uses 10W-40, seems to be a similar mix, If its good enough for 11,000 rpm motor, its good enough for a relatively slow moving chain...anyway,put your bike on its centre stand, if you have one,get a old woollen style sock put it over your left hand and place a small quantity of oil on it, spin the backwheel backwards ( spinning forward you may get your fingers caught between the chain & the rear sprocket, it will wake you up quickly & f....n hurts) then oil the bottom of the chain, repeat till chain is cleaner & oiled, dont put too much on. The general idea is that it is better to have road grime throw itself off the chain using a lighter oil, than use a greasy type crap that keeps the grime on the chain & helps wear it out.
Works for me, until I get my oiler fixed