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Thread: How do I perform this manuver ?

  1. #16
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    28th July 2004 - 12:00
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    Go find a lonely straight road and practice.

    Which area do you live in?? I don't mind coming and practicing with you.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by justsomeguy
    Go find a lonely straight road and practice.

    Which area do you live in?? I don't mind coming and practicing with you.

    I'm in auckland, sandringham, and I can get pretty much anywhere that does not involve using motorway (i dont have proper jacket yet and stuff)...

  3. #18
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    16th October 2005 - 15:34
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    It might be a good idea for you to do a riding coarse with a riding school like passrite, or anyone. If you're having trouble with the bisics like going around a corner, how will you react during an emergency, or if you're caught out riding when it starts to rain?

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mops

    I'm in auckland, sandringham, and I can get pretty much anywhere that does not involve using motorway (i dont have proper jacket yet and stuff)...
    That's quite close to where I live. Do you want to meet tomorrow??

    EDIT : Tomorrow seems better.. or the day after, whichever is more convenient to you.
    Last edited by justsomeguy; 28th December 2005 at 16:40.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by iwilde
    It might be a good idea for you to do a riding coarse with a riding school like passrite, or anyone. If you're having trouble with the bisics like going around a corner, how will you react during an emergency, or if you're caught out riding when it starts to rain?
    We all got to start somewhere bud - the course is a great idea. Don't know about pa$$rite prices...... but BRONZ do an awesome 8 hour course for $45.

    Do a search on the site Mops.

  6. #21
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    Arrow I had to relearn this on the TT.

    First few times at the beginning I was locking the rear wheel on the TT under heavy braking. Problem was I was used to a revvy CBR. I find that if I Use braking, but not to the extreme and a good but of throttle just before changing down I manage to avoid locking the rear. Also having too much weight on the frount wheel is a hassle. I've re-learnt to lean back to get more weight to the back of the bike. The two bikes are a contrast of riding requirements, but I believe its helping me to improve my mojo.
    Those who insist on perfect safety, don't have the balls to live in the real world.

  7. #22
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    why even bother blipping? just use the clutch without, and learn to do that later. It's only a 250..
    And for braking, try using a couple of fingers, and learn to use your thumb and index to control the throttle..

  8. #23
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    26th February 2005 - 15:10
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    It's almost like I should be both front-braking and bliping-throttle all with my right wrist, um... uh... it doesn't feel natural....
    Yep, that is *exactly* what you should be doing. And getting down out of the high gears sooner . 60kph coming up to a corner in 5th or 6th might be OK on a GN250. But your bike is a sprotbike. You need to change down a lot earlier, so by the time you get to sizing up the corner you're already in 3rd , maybe 4th at most. Even on the SRX250, which is a lot less revvy than your bike I wouldn't be higher than 4th. Then apply front brake with your fingers, twist your palm down to blip the throttle as you declutch (wrap on finger round the twistgrip if you have to), and Bob's your uncle, into 2nd , touch of rear brake just to steady, lean over into the corner on a steady throttle (I like to trail the rear brake m'self, but that's a personal choice thing), round the corner and power out.

    Seems tricky at first , but you'll soon get used to it. Easier than double declutching a car with a non-synchro box actually.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion
    Yep, that is *exactly* what you should be doing. And getting down out of the high gears sooner . 60kph coming up to a corner in 5th or 6th might be OK on a GN250. But your bike is a sprotbike. You need to change down a lot earlier, so by the time you get to sizing up the corner you're already in 3rd , maybe 4th at most. Even on the SRX250, which is a lot less revvy than your bike I wouldn't be higher than 4th. Then apply front brake with your fingers, twist your palm down to blip the throttle as you declutch (wrap on finger round the twistgrip if you have to), and Bob's your uncle, into 2nd , touch of rear brake just to steady, lean over into the corner on a steady throttle (I like to trail the rear brake m'self, but that's a personal choice thing), round the corner and power out.

    Seems tricky at first , but you'll soon get used to it. Easier than double declutching a car with a non-synchro box actually.
    I'll try that on my next ocasion. I'm mainly talking about 90degree junction style conrners, which you have to really slow down to 2nd gear, from 5th or 6th...

  10. #25
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    You might be overthinking this whole thing a bit much Mops. How much about riding feels natural when you first start to do it? Blipping the throttle while using the front brake is quite easy once you get used to it, and it's the option I highly recommend.

    I personally would not recommend Buggy's suggestion re: 2 fingers on the brake. Buggy is a good rider with a fair bit of experience. You don't sound like you fit that category yet. Until you do, my view is that you keep as many fingers over that brake lever as possible, more fingers = more control. You can cover the brake with four fingers and blip the throttle at the same time. I do it. You might be a bit jerky to start with, but it's like everything, practice makes perfect. Also be gentle on letting the clutch out. Dumping it relies on the revs being pretty damn right, and chances are they're not going to be until you've got blipping mastered.

    Don't be too worried about the back end locking up. Really. If you're upright and it's dry, then it's not a big issue. I went down one gear too many at the end of the straight at Taupo the other day and then had to turn into the corner while the back end was still wiggling, and I'm a rider of only modest ability. No drama. But of course you're going to go out now and practice blipping and the whole arse wobble will be null and void.
    "You, Madboy, are the Uncooked Pork Sausage of Sausage Beasts. With extra herbs."
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  11. #26
    Maybe you've got too much weight on your hands,sprotbikes do that to you,and it's not a good way to learn fine control - I ride trials bikes which are all about fine control...and weight on the bars is a no no.You also may be trying to come down too many gears too fast - even under racing conditions each downshift should be deliberate,well spaced and under your control at all times - madly slamming away at gear lever and clutch and blindly hoping you get it right is the actions of someone like me who even after 35 yrs still comes into corners and out the other side trying to find the right gear to be in.....
    In and out of jobs, running free
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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by mops
    I'll try that on my next ocasion. I'm mainly talking about 90degree junction style conrners, which you have to really slow down to 2nd gear, from 5th or 6th...
    Yeah, but 90 degree corners usually implies built up area. Why are you in 5th or 6th at under 100kph on that bike. Change down to 4th or 3rd way before the corner, as soon as you know you're going to have to go round it. Keep your speed steady, then when you chnage down it's ownly one or two changes . 5th should be regarded as an overdrive in built up areas on a 4cyl 250. I wouldn'y use 6th at all, except maybe down along hill .

    You're trying to drive it like a car, or a GN250 , you gotta let it rev. Those motors can take it, 10000 rpm is nothing to them
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  13. #28
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    I'm with bugjuice on this one, blipping is just an unnecessary distraction on a bike such as this.
    Even with a high compression superbike motor in race conditions, one can use the clutch without blipping and have no lock up problems.

    Planning ahead is key.
    With motorcycles, you should be planning on what your doing next, rather than what you are doing just right at that time.
    With practice things will start to flow for you.

    Your motor is designed to be run in the higher rev zone, it is actually worse for your motor to "lug" it around than it is to rev it hard. Find the happy medium of the two for suburban and motorway riding.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by sugilite
    I'm with bugjuice on this one, blipping is just an unnecessary distraction on a bike such as this.
    It's vital to riding it smoothly.
    If a man is alone in the woods and there isn't a woke Hollywood around to call him racist, is he still white?



  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by mops
    2. when braking with front wheel, i get the speed down ok, but as I change down gears, often the rear wheel will momentairly lock up and drift (esp. down on 3rd and 2nd gear)
    Use the clutch, for a change, and let it back out more gently. I get manic rear wheel excitement if I don't use the engine braking in a subtle fashion.

    Dave

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