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Thread: Any plumbers amongst us?

  1. #16
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    26th August 2004 - 22:32
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    Hehe.
    Good times.
    Aaahhhh!
    ...she took the KT, and left me the Buell to ride....(Blues Brothers)

  2. #17
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    26th February 2005 - 15:10
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    Quote Originally Posted by WINJA
    spose your right . its like saying crescent instaed of adjustable wrench
    I ain't right! Or , if I am it's serendipitous. 'Twas a genuine question, I don't know what them is. Ajax valve I know .

    Meh , me is geek, me should not be lazy, Googlefu is my friend. Appears that Nefa valve = Apex valve = Ajax valve = all of them pressure reducing valve. Right? So it is just me old friend the ajax valve. Always hidden under the house in the most dirty , inaccessible and head banging on joists bit.

    (Oh, and Mr Hitcher - isn't wrench a forbidden Yankeeism for spanner ? - Except in the phrase wrenchwench which is too good to lose)
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  3. #18
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    9th June 2005 - 13:22
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    Make thread conclusive.

    Hey there Mr Fazer Bloke, can I make a request? That you let us know via this thread what the final outcome to your problem is.
    Too many threads on KB are inconclusive and I am a particularly nosey bastard, I like to know the outcomes. :spudwhat: Thanks John.

  4. #19
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    18th July 2005 - 21:19
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    Having read the thread I would say it is probably your pressure reducing valve which should be located under the hot water cylinder somewhere really shitty and inconveinent to get to,don't piss about with it,disconnect and remove it,take it to Mico or Chesters and get a repair kit for it,it's easy to do and will cost you about 6 bucks.
    Alternatively ring me and I'll come round and do it for you at club members rates Ha Ha
    My carbon footprint stretches to the horizon....but I'm not a bad person....

  5. #20
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    31st January 2004 - 12:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by WINJA
    i got a lotta shit when i was an apprentice , it all was too much one day and i knocked out the tradesman i was with , i broke 3 ribs on another tradesman a few weeks later , then i bashed the service supervisors face on the wall a few times , the fuckers left me alone after that, there was a long line of apprentice abuse , i had my motorbike vandalized , 2 pairs of shoes munted and some of my tools vandalized
    Fuck, and there was me thinking about getting out of computers and learning a trade. Fuck that shit, man.
    There is no try. Do, or do not do.

  6. #21
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    31st January 2004 - 12:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by solakid
    Having read the thread I would say it is probably your pressure reducing valve which should be located under the hot water cylinder somewhere really shitty and inconveinent to get to,don't piss about with it,disconnect and remove it,take it to Mico or Chesters and get a repair kit for it,it's easy to do and will cost you about 6 bucks.
    Alternatively ring me and I'll come round and do it for you at club members rates Ha Ha
    Well, I've attached a photo of the valve beneath the cylinder, just to make sure we are singing from the same hymn sheet. Solakid, how much do you think it would cost for you to do this for me? feel free to PM me if you'd rather not talk prices on the forum. I live in Glenfield if that makes a difference to your call-out. Cheers bro.

    FB
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    There is no try. Do, or do not do.

  7. #22
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    27th September 2005 - 12:58
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    Quote Originally Posted by pyrocam
    you mean a monkey wrench?
    Shifting Spanner! Doh

  8. #23
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    6th November 2004 - 14:34
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    Quote Originally Posted by fazer bloke
    well, i've attached a photo of the valve beneath the cylinder, just to make sure we are singing from the same hymn sheet. solakid, how much do you think it would cost for you to do this for me? feel free to pm me if you'd rather not talk prices on the forum. i live in glenfield if that makes a difference to your call-out. cheers bro.

    fb
    see the top threaded bit , loosen that nut first , stick a small nail in the hole of the adjuster , back it off 1/4turn. if that dont work put it back .
    next isolate the water , looks like a screwdriver ball valve in line , that 1/2" one right there , turn on a hot tap make sure its isolated , that black under neath contains the water jet and washer, thats the washer you need to replace , its about the size of a 5c piece and twice as thick , it may reseal if ya flip it but best to replace

  9. #24
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    28th March 2007 - 09:38
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    I know this threads quite old, but I'd like to follow on if I may, and any help greatly appreciated.
    My NEFA valve has a mind of it's own. The previous tenant of our house extended the pipe and also fitted a new valve, but it still drips now and again.
    It's got a factory setting of 3.7m, but which way do I turn the pressure regulator to reduce the header pressure? In or out? I'm just not sure of the working innards of this thing.
    Thanks.

  10. #25
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    17th June 2005 - 11:12
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    Quote Originally Posted by kinger View Post
    I know this threads quite old, but I'd like to follow on if I may, and any help greatly appreciated.
    My NEFA valve has a mind of it's own. The previous tenant of our house extended the pipe and also fitted a new valve, but it still drips now and again.
    It's got a factory setting of 3.7m, but which way do I turn the pressure regulator to reduce the header pressure? In or out? I'm just not sure of the working innards of this thing.
    Thanks.
    ha, I sell those things, its hard to tell from the pic, is your system valve vented or open vented? ie do you have a copper vent pipe sticking out the roof directly above the hwc? are there any other valves in the line (look for a cold water expansion valve, I think they are supposed to drip), show us some more pics pls
    did you ever replace the washer?

    is this a rental? call the landlord/property managers, not your problem.

    heres the description from the website

    http://www.methven.biz/nz/nefa/low/105

    also this valve could be the culprit, if installed, also an easy fix
    http://www.methven.biz/nz/nefa/low/107

    or this if installed, I think they are supposed to drip a bit
    http://www.methven.biz/nz/nefa/high/379
    Yes I know my enemies
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  11. #26
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    27th November 2003 - 12:00
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    "Standing on your mother's corpse you told me that you'd wait forever." [Bryan Adams: Summer of 69]

  12. #27
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    28th March 2007 - 09:38
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    lb99, if you're still seeing this......
    The top of the tank has a pipe going straight thru the roof, and the previous tenant extended it to try and stop the drip. You can also see the original valve which he changed in a failed attempt to stop the drip.
    Aside from these, there's no other valves I can find, even in the roof space.
    However, I now own the house, so it's my problem.





  13. #28
    Hireawifey Guest

    Nefa Valve

    I have the same problem with a Nefa Valve but I was told to replace the washer. How do you know if its a washer or the whole valve that needs replacing and is it easy to do yourself? At the moment I've been turning the lugnut and the drip slows down but doesn't stop.



    Quote Originally Posted by Rincewind View Post
    Having read the thread I would say it is probably your pressure reducing valve which should be located under the hot water cylinder somewhere really shitty and inconveinent to get to,don't piss about with it,disconnect and remove it,take it to Mico or Chesters and get a repair kit for it,it's easy to do and will cost you about 6 bucks.
    Alternatively ring me and I'll come round and do it for you at club members rates Ha Ha

  14. #29
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    28th March 2007 - 09:38
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    I had the valve apart, and the simplicity of the design basically rules pretty much everything else out.
    It's a washer, pushed to it's seat by a spring which you preload with the adjuster handle.
    Once you replace the washer, refill the tank, and then you can set the header pressure by adjusting the tap until no water flows through, and none is coming out the pipe onto your roof. Easier to do than to explain actually.

  15. #30
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    21st November 2007 - 16:42
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    Red face

    Did you replace the washer?

    If you did and it still leaks most common advice is to replace the valve.

    From personal experience it is a bit dodgy to extend the overflow as this increases the head and the pressure of your shower. This desirable outcome may prove to have an undesirable effect if the increased pressure proves to be too much for the cylinder. In this scenario it ruptures and dumps the contents of the cylinder over the floor. This woeful state is exacerbated if you have gone on holiday and the water flows for two weeks.
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