Rolling burnouts

[FzerozeroT]

I'm having problems trying to keep them going, If I start in first gear then I am going so slow that the bike starts to weave very easily, and if I sart in second gear after a few seconds the rear gets some traction and pulls a wheelie/throw manouvre.

any hints?

[k14]

Im surprised that you can even do them on a 150.

I have done a few but only on grass, i havent tried on the road but i would assume it is pretty hard for a 600cc or less.

Just throw the front brake on and do it that way.

[White trash]

I'm having problems trying to keep them going, If I start in first gear then I am going so slow that the bike starts to weave very easily, and if I sart in second gear after a few seconds the rear gets some traction and pulls a wheelie/throw manouvre.

any hints?

Get it spinning real fast. Be standing on the pegs with most of your weight over the front, knees bent.

Oh yeah, be prepared to replace a few clutch plates doin' them on a one fiddy!

[FzerozeroT]

all you need to do is be travelling about 1/2 revs, clutch, front brake, revs to 10 or so, dump clutch and work the brake.

easy peasy

[FzerozeroT]

just back is either twisting like a pig, first gear.
or front leaves ground while back is twisting like a pig, second gear must be fun to watch tho

[wkid_one]

Helps if you move your weight well forward as well

[Nouseforaname]

do them going up hill, with the front brakes on nice and hard... while getting ya weight forward, i do them on my steep road and it works sweet. the rear wheel will have less weight placed on it and spins up nice and easy.

[wkid_one]

Practice them in the wet - that's what I did - it is easier than learning in the dry. then just apply the same logic in the dry.

[Wenier]

how fast does ur bike go in first. i find my 250 is fine doin them in first riding along did one today outside daytona in palmy since i went for a ride up there and did some go karting. and they have compulsary burnouts when leaving so...

[DEATH_INC.]

Get it spinning real fast. Be standing on the pegs with most of your weight over the front, knees bent.

Yep,this is what I do.Get her going fast with plenty of rpm's

[speedpro]

Used to do this at the drags on the GSX1100 and the Moriwaki Z1. Put it in 2nd, stand up well forward with weight on the bars, big handfull of revs and dump the clutch. Move the back around so it doesn't melt a hole in the seal, then bum onto seat & feet on pegs. Depending on track you can move forward or back to control how it hooks up. At Thunderpark you had to be way forward to stop the rear gripping too soon. This technique was good for about 100ft smoky burnouts or more if you feathered the front brake. Could be a bit more difficult with todays lighter bikes and stickier tyres, though with the Z stripped down it wasn't too bad and I always ran the softest tyres available and the tracks were pretty sticky(not always the case at Meremere)

[Slingshot]

Dumb question time....Why would you want to burn good/expensive rubber?

[jrandom]

Dumb question time....Why would you want to burn good/expensive rubber?

coz it's fun, dude... sheeeeesh... sport tyres only last a few months anyway, plenty of opportunity to shred them before each new set is fitted.

The burnout in my avatar photo I only did because I was replacing the tyres later that day, anyway.

[FzerozeroT]

Dumb question time....Why would you want to burn good/expensive rubber?

I have another post going about how crap these tires are and need some new ones.
But anyway, a rear is only $90 for one the same and it's quite a hard compound. Have done a few small burnouts and no flat spot yet!

[MD]

But anyway, a rear is only $90 for one the same and it's quite a hard compound. Have done a few small burnouts and no flat spot yet!

$90 bucks a tyre. You lucky lucky b#@*tard as Monty Python would say.
I've paid from $320 to $450 a rear. Life and limb depend on that there tyre holdin on. Every millimetre of rubber is precious to me (now I'm quoting from Gollum) so burn outs are out of the question
MD