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Thread: Learning about two strokes

  1. #46
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    4th November 2003 - 13:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRT
    Now I've just got to find a way to hold the drive sprocket while I undo it, .
    Engine still in the frame it is easy, put it in gear and have someone hold the rear brake on, while you undo it

    out of the frame, shoot down to the local tyre store and get them to undo it with an impact gun or wrap the chain around the spocket and clap visegrips onto the chain just behind the sprocket to hold it while you undo it
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


    Quote Originally Posted by scracha View Post
    Even BP would shy away from cleaning up a sidecar oil spill.
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
    Send Lawyers, guns and money, the shit has hit the fan

  2. #47
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    2nd October 2005 - 00:47
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    Oh!!! So easy!

    Legend!

  3. #48
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    29th September 2003 - 20:48
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    Could try an impact driver too. That worked to get the impeller for the water pump on my rs off. Thats geared straight off the crank so was impossible to stop spinning when i tried to undo it.

  4. #49
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    4th July 2005 - 15:58
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    Two steps forward, one step back . . .

    Ok, didnt get much time over the weekend as I went away on Friday and only got back last night. Still, on Thursday night I managed to get the sprocket off, I used a large pair of slipjaws to hold it while I removed the bolt. Kickaha - that first method to remove it while still in the frame is a good 'un, thanks for that - I'll add it to my list of things to do before removing the engine from the frame in case I ever have to do this again.

    So now that's off, I undo all the crank case bolts, then get out my nice new puller from Super Cheap, and whaddya know - the bolts dont fit into the crankcase. I looked at using the bolts from the engine, but the heads on them are too small and the puller wont hold them. So now I've got to track down another, smaller, puller. Will be off to 'Rip Every Poor C*nt Off' tonight to see what they have.

    Still, goes to show how hard these little jobs can be when you dont have all the tools. At least by the time I have finished I'll have a decent tool box kitted out!

  5. #50
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    26th June 2005 - 21:11
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    WOw!!!!!1

    this sounds serious!!!!

    Im gonna be pulling my KDX apart soon i can tell. The amount of engine noise is outta this world!! (me thinks its shagged Mains)

    luckily, i now know what to undo with the engine in the frame

    good luck with it

    -RG


  6. #51
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    Don't ask me about shagged main bearings!! Grrrrrr

  7. #52
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    4th July 2005 - 15:58
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    Mate, you are having as bad a run as I am. Hope you get it sorted.

  8. #53
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    4th July 2005 - 15:58
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    Success! Got the case apart, after some gentle persuasion with a hammer. Cranked it up with the case puller, then a few small love taps and it all came apart.

    Couple of questions tho. I want to give it all a good hosing out in there to make sure all the little bits are gone - whats good to use for that? Would CRC do the job?

    Also, I'm told that there should be an A or a B on the underside of the piston - but there aint, if there was then it must have been stamped on the bit that broke off. How do I know what piston kit to order?

    And finally, I'm thinking of getting a wiseco kit as many riders have recommended them to me. Where's a good place to source them locally?

    As always, thanks for your help guys!!

    - Walter
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  9. #54
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    26th June 2005 - 21:11
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    nice,

    IMHO

    get a wisco piston kit.

    they are better than Oem and can actually cost less.


  10. #55
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    4th July 2005 - 15:58
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    Sweet, thanks for that, any idea where I can score one from? Gonna start ringing round a few places in a couple of hours, do Motomail, AMPS or Cycletreads sell them?

  11. #56
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    They look the same as my 91 cases , You have an 01 ????

    anyway that simple green or washing up liquid an for the ulitmate , simmer in large pan with washing up liquid ..

    the dry ( in oven very low heat ) spray wit crc to stop corrosion

    failing that kero ( I use gasoline then kero as Gas cleans easier than kero )

    Look on the top of the piston for the A or B ... but std pistons Someimes dont have the mark ( mine dont )

    I have always measured mine and selected the best fit ..

    Stephen
    "Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."

  12. #57
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    Thanks for that Brian, no mark on the top, so might have to measure it. Might give the gas then kero trick a go, sounds like me (have got plenty of both of those at home) then follow up with a dosing of CRC like you mentioned.

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRT
    Also, I'm told that there should be an A or a B on the underside of the piston - but there aint, if there was then it must have been stamped on the bit that broke off. How do I know what piston kit to order?
    - Walter
    If you wont to do it properly first get the bore measured and work out what piston size you need off that
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


    Quote Originally Posted by scracha View Post
    Even BP would shy away from cleaning up a sidecar oil spill.
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
    Send Lawyers, guns and money, the shit has hit the fan

  14. #59
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    4th July 2005 - 15:58
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    Righteo - found the answer. For anyone else that has trouble working out which type they have, the model is actually stamped on the outside of the cylinder casing, as it happens mine is an 'A'.

    Also, phoned round some places yesterday afternoon to try and track down a wiseco piston kit, and had limited success. Motomail and AMPS dont stock piston kits full stop, while the guy at Cycletreads was quite helpfull and while they dont stock them, he said he can get a wiseco kit in for me and will be phoning me back this morning with a price. I also spoke to Botany Honda (they are the ones that suggested to look on the cylinder casing, so big ups to them) who originally priced up the OEM kit for me as being between $235 and $250, depending on which type it was. When I asked about wiseco ones, they said that they can get them in, but that they are "way" more expensive than the OEM ones. Which seems strange to me, as everyone else seems to think that they should be cheaper and they are available brand new on eBay for around $130 NZD plus freight.

    I'm kinda hoping to get one locally, even if it does cost a little more (so long as its not double the price, in which case I'll buy online instead) so will have to wait and see what price Cycletreads comes back with. Will keep you all posted.

  15. #60
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    2nd October 2005 - 00:47
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    was there many bits of crap in the bottom of the case?

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