Originally Posted by RG100!!
Good luck getting it sorted RG100![]()
Originally Posted by RG100!!
Good luck getting it sorted RG100![]()
Those who insist on perfect safety, don't have the balls to live in the real world.
cheers guys,
It amazes me as to how many people put thought into helping me out.
I will get it sorted, its a matter of time and trouble shooting.
Cheers, RG100!!
Good luck mate, it can't be too hard....![]()
To every man upon this earth
Death cometh sooner or late
And how can a man die better
Than facing fearful odds
For the ashes of his fathers
And the temples of his Gods
It really sucks dosent it, you follow the book by the letter, check and re-check everything 10 times, put it all together and ...
you getprize just because it looks good, dosn't go but it looks good. so you put your tail between your legs and putt / trailer / push your way to the bike shop. They then charge you 1hour labour (the backstreet shop) / 12 hours and a fortune in parts (the highstreet shop) to fix a blindingly obvious fault you wouldn't have thought of in a million years.
Good on you for having a go :-) you aint going you learn unless you do.
Your current problems sound a lot, no exactly, like my 600 when i first got it "running" again. they were solved by blowing the carbs (again) and moving the cam around one tooth (this had been checked, re-checked and checked again). Took it out for a test yesterday, am still smiling now. Tomorrow it will, hopefully be on the road and legal - just need to re-register it.
Also had similar on my beemer when I set the cam out by 1 and the inlet manifold had blown at the same time. That was a tad hard to start...
Motorbike only search
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - CRC AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE CRC. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE
hmm im wondering that.
if its blowing out the inlet, the inlet valves are not closing soon enough.
so if go one tooth back it should make them close sooner..... hmmm maybe not.......
maybe its to the boike shop
ah well ya live n learn
Quick way to check if cams are in the right place: Rotate the crank so that the IN and EX lines on the cam gears are in line with the top of the head (they should be pointing towards each other, or away), and look at the crank alignment mark - if its pointing at the line on the rotor (I can't remember form the top of my head wether its meant to be the T or F mark), then they're spot on.
One trap for young players - on engines where the timing marks are on the gears or sprockets, they may be valid ONLY if the gear/sprocket is on its original camshaft - ie you can't mix the gears/sprockets up. Not a problem if the marks are on the camshaft itself of course. Moral is, always mark everything and put it back where it came from. I've also known people switch the inlet and exhaust camshafts - which can be VERY confusing.
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
^^ for instance when I did my cam chain my camshafts were 180 degrees out from what the manual said they should be, very confusing when your putting the thing back together. Luckly I decided to stick with what was working instead of trying to 'fix' it.![]()
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