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Thread: Front Forks

  1. #1
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    5th August 2005 - 14:30
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    Front Forks

    Ok as you may be aware I have just purchased a YZF750.

    Now this thing needs a little work, the main thing being the front forks. if you hold the front brake and give it a shove down it bounced 5 or 6 times before coming to rest.

    So I am thinking I need to replace the front dampers and after the result with the X11, the front springs too. Not after anything fancy for the dampers as it is an old bike.

    Does anyone know where abouts I can get the existing dampers rebuilt or some reasonably priced replacement ones please?
    Quote Originally Posted by Tank
    You say "no one wants to fuck with some large bloke on a really angry sounding bike" but the truth of the matter is that you are a balding middle-aged ice-cream seller from Edgecume who wears a hello kitty t-shirt (in your profile pic) and your angry sounding bike is a fucken hyoshit - not some big assed harley with a human skull on the front.

  2. #2
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    13th January 2005 - 11:00
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    could it be a possibility to change the oil to a heavier weight before splashing out on new dampers/spring? Just a thought.

    Else I use Spectrum for everything (top blokes), but they're more Kawa based.. They have done Suzuki shocks for me before tho, so they're up for anything

  3. #3
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    6th June 2005 - 22:26
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    Of all the forks I've done, they only ever needed a cleanout and new oil/seals.
    Easy job just a pain to get the front end out. Last time I roped it to the ceiling of the shed.
    Viva La Figa

  4. #4
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    23rd April 2004 - 19:16
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    I could take it in to Cycletreads and have a chat to Budgie (the big guy) - rumour has it he's a bit of a suspension pro
    KiwiBitcher
    where opinion holds more weight than fact.

    It's better to not pass and know that you could have than to pass and find out that you can't. Wait for the straight.

  5. #5
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    No would rather go strait to a rebuild thanks, I expected to spend about a $1,000.00 to bring it up to scratch and I want the front end good.

    Want to use it for track days etc too

    Got to look at the brakes and a few other things also. It has 6 pot calipers on the front and I would expect it to stop on a dime, but nooo.

    Do you have a contact for Spectrum please?
    Quote Originally Posted by Tank
    You say "no one wants to fuck with some large bloke on a really angry sounding bike" but the truth of the matter is that you are a balding middle-aged ice-cream seller from Edgecume who wears a hello kitty t-shirt (in your profile pic) and your angry sounding bike is a fucken hyoshit - not some big assed harley with a human skull on the front.

  6. #6
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    Spectrum Motorcycles - 09 489 5355
    KiwiBitcher
    where opinion holds more weight than fact.

    It's better to not pass and know that you could have than to pass and find out that you can't. Wait for the straight.

  7. #7
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    6th June 2005 - 22:26
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    Yeah calipers always gunk up, get a nice ring of shit around the piston and cause them to stick nicely.
    A sealkit, new fluid and a toothbrush makes quick work and gets them back in good working order.
    Viva La Figa

  8. #8
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    calipers are easy to clean up, done a few and got them working sweet. Isn't hard to do, so just go for it (or can help if you need). I just don't do forks yet, cos there's things in there that I don't know where they live, and I don't want to fork them up

  9. #9
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    Hey thank you guys, much appreciated.

    Ok, just spoke to Spectrum and he say prob just fork oil. So it looks like I better bloody listen to you in future aye Buggy.

    Off to Henderson Motorcycles now to see what a seal kit for the calipers and forks are worth.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tank
    You say "no one wants to fuck with some large bloke on a really angry sounding bike" but the truth of the matter is that you are a balding middle-aged ice-cream seller from Edgecume who wears a hello kitty t-shirt (in your profile pic) and your angry sounding bike is a fucken hyoshit - not some big assed harley with a human skull on the front.

  10. #10
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    lol.. what can I say?

    shop around for the caliper kits too, some places can double the price of bits of rubber bands.. and check the condition of the brake lines too. If they're looking a bit tired, they'll flex when you squeeze the lever, which will make the brakes feel spongy. Ask about a master cylinder kit cost too, just for piece of mind. If the rubber in there is old too, then that can also cause a bit of loss of feel too. If you want good brakes, it's best to just redo the lot..

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaN
    Got to look at the brakes and a few other things also. It has 6 pot calipers on the front and I would expect it to stop on a dime, but nooo.
    Thought they only put those on the SP. Oh well. They do stop bloody well, but I'd highly recommend changing the fork springs cos the standard ones bottom out if you brake really hard, even with plenty of preload.
    Zen wisdom: No matter what happens, somebody will find a way to take it too seriously. - obviously had KB in mind when he came up with that gem

    Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity

  12. #12
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    15th June 2005 - 19:24
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    Give Ray Clee a call at Ray Clee Motorcycle Performance in Keumu(sorry about the spelling). He will sort out the front end. Go for WP fork springs and a reoil. New bushes would help reduce binding and stiction along with new seals. If you were planning to do it anyway and had the money it would be a great investment.
    But like you say just a flush/reoil will help heaps.

  13. #13
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    Ok, takena few days due to time constraints, but I now have the forks apart.

    The oils was black and thin as water.

    One thing I hadn't expected was the amount of crap in suspension in the oil and the sludge that had collected in the bottom of the slider.

    On the positive side the bushes all appear sound and the springs are well within limit, so they will go back together soon with new seals being about all I will replace.

    One issue though. There is rust and pitting starting on the slider just below max travel. I suspect this is futile, but is there any way to hold this in check?
    Quote Originally Posted by Tank
    You say "no one wants to fuck with some large bloke on a really angry sounding bike" but the truth of the matter is that you are a balding middle-aged ice-cream seller from Edgecume who wears a hello kitty t-shirt (in your profile pic) and your angry sounding bike is a fucken hyoshit - not some big assed harley with a human skull on the front.

  14. #14
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    12th February 2006 - 10:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaN
    Ok as you may be aware I have just purchased a YZF750.

    Now this thing needs a little work, the main thing being the front forks. if you hold the front brake and give it a shove down it bounced 5 or 6 times before coming to rest.

    So I am thinking I need to replace the front dampers and after the result with the X11, the front springs too. Not after anything fancy for the dampers as it is an old bike.

    Does anyone know where abouts I can get the existing dampers rebuilt or some reasonably priced replacement ones please?
    Reasonably priced means they will be there for decoration rather than proper damping, roadholding, your safety and everyone elses. Doesnt matter whether its a cheap bike or an expensive one, it will still benefit the same from quality ( not cheap ) suspension. Forget about trying to get your standard shock rebuilt, the body is not hard anodised and it will be worn like crazy inside. This bike is currently capable of killing you and other road users.....

  15. #15
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    Dude--sorry ive been busy with my own shite.
    Ive got the manual here for ya to borrow.
    Starting with the brakes -push each piston completely out -one at a time and give em a really good clean up.in my opinion the best way is using a brass wire wheel in a bench grinder. -The brass is softer than the chrome but harder than the craop stuck on the pistons.Give the seal a huck out with your finger and apply a smear of rubberlube.do this to all 12 pistons then bleed the crappy fluid out and replace it with good clean stuff.Bleed em up of course.
    The reccomended fork oil is 10 weight and 464ml-471ml -measured from top of fork tube to oil level with spring removed and spring removed--
    Id use 15w and 460ml but thats my gut feeling only.
    Fork tube cleanup is possible.
    I use 2000 grit wet and dry paper -wet to clean up the rust -if a pit is left you can fill it with 2 pot epoxy and linish it smooth.Never perfect but its actually the sharp edges that rip the fork seals out more than the pits.
    Rear shock wise-it does sound like the daming is a gonzod--Tyebbe bruin may be able to reoil it for you --given ya aint proddy racing he can fit a bleed nipple in the side to change the oil
    Dude that bike is a bllody bonzer--I tregret selling mine almost every day
    To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?

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