Yeah! Check it out !!

[Coyote]

Kwaks can be upgraded over time...
Here is a KX80 that's got a KX500 bored out to 580 in it...

Ooooooooo, I want one

[crazyxr250rider]

Me tooooo....

[Coyote]

How much would a 600-1000cc V-Twin engine from a wreckers cost?

And how much would a decent 250 motocross bike excluding an engine cost?

[crazyxr250rider]

Not much for either if they were pre. 2000.

[**R1**]

Nice....great bikes I still have mine, they easily get 80 hours on a piston and rings, and are great all round trail bikes, not to good for long wheelies tho, i have looped mine a dozen times or so...also most kx250 parts fit ie: chamber carb etc, so if it starts to get booring start upgrading to the KX bits...

edit: I also have heaps of parts if you need anything, like a right hand side cover

[MidnightMike]

Hey now youve got one spare so maybe I could have the cbr

[F5 Dave]

What a steal! it probably was. . .


Ok for the fun part of spending money.

Airfilter, check/replace.

Put the bike on a crate & lift the rear wheel, feel for play. Oh dear. Those bearings won’t cost much will they?

Check if power valve is working. Hmmm.

Gearbox oil grey? Water pump seal.

Still there’s an organised trail ride pretty much every weekend until easter. (check silver bullet site).

[Coyote]

Check if power valve is working. Hmmm.

If it's cool it won't have one. My 80 didn't

So when are you getting road tyres?

[Sketchy_Racer]

What a steal! it probably was. . .


Ok for the fun part of spending money.

Airfilter, check/replace.

Put the bike on a crate & lift the rear wheel, feel for play. Oh dear. Those bearings won’t cost much will they?

Check if power valve is working. Hmmm.

Gearbox oil grey? Water pump seal.

Still there’s an organised trail ride pretty much every weekend until easter. (check silver bullet site).

He he he,

you are corect on all these points i think.

Point one : airfilter, It hasnt been done for 2 years

Point two: Bearings, All bushes are ok except the main swing arm ones. But i have made some new ones out of brass at the college lathes (with help )

Point three: Powervalves work sweet as

Point four: Yes, unfortuantly, the seal does leak

but FWIW is it really nesseasary to replace it?? how bad is it for the gear box having water in the mix??

its not hard to do, but its just another thing on the list.

Oh and **R1** i want ya side cover!!!

cheers, Glenn

[Sketchy_Racer]

If it's cool it won't have one. My 80 didn't

So when are you getting road tyres?

Road tyres??

i dunno...... its a bit to shbby to use on road

[Coyote]

Road tyres??

i dunno...... its a bit to shbby to use on road

Phff, doesn't need to be road legal. Just needs to be good enough to race in carparks and go-kart tracks

[F5 Dave]

The seal only cost, heck i dunno maybe $20 tops. One you lose water from your cooling system, but more importantly how expensive do you think a gearbox is & how well do you think grey watery sludge lubricates?

Takes no time to replace. Pack those linkage bearings with lithium grease which is more water proof than moly.

[inlinefour]

Water + oil = major problem that costs alot of $$$. Pay to sort it before it kills it. Might have something to do with why it only cost $500 eh?

[Sketchy_Racer]

sweet as,

went down to Hi torque cycles and ordered me some parts.

I had anoter air filter that fits so thats sorted.

The seal cost me $15 (yay)

new head set bearings cost me $40 (yay again)

and....... um now to price up a spoke kit for the rear wheel.

Oh and new rear wheel bearings.

so if i spend another $500 gettting into top shape, It will only have costed me $1000 for a bike that would be close to $2000.

seems pretty good to me

cheers guys,

-RG

[F5 Dave]

Spokes often aren't cheap, Ken who works part time at Darbi can roll some.

ok the next hurtle is fitting the head bearings & they are flush with the bottom mount. About the only way to get the old bottom one out is to mig a bead of weld around it to shrink it. Works a treat.

Then the bottom bearing from the triple clamp can be mongered apart & the inner sleeve ground carefully so it is thin enough to crack with a blow. Press on new with a steel tube the right size to just push the inner. Again Lithium grease & that seal at the bottom of the lower bearing.

I couldn’t find after market head bearing the right size (for a 91’ 200) & got a close one but found the top one was too big for the upper triple clamp. I ended up using a shim as a stop gap measure & it worked well, so when I took it apart I reused it.