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Thread: Kawasaki ZXR250 Help-Needed

  1. #31
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    10th February 2005 - 21:49
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    JSgz... running 96/91 depends on what the bike runs best on. I also heard the fouling plugs myth. My bike (used to be) tuned slightly lean and for max power/top end so it started like a bitch. 91 would make it overheat and pre-ignite. Fuel usage in these things should be done on a case by case basis.

    Mine needs a tune (aka it's rich) so can run 91 no problems, gets better mileage on 96 though so more cost effective.

  2. #32
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    28th July 2004 - 12:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by tristank
    JSgz... running 96/91 depends on what the bike runs best on. I also heard the fouling plugs myth. My bike (used to be) tuned slightly lean and for max power/top end so it started like a bitch. 91 would make it overheat and pre-ignite. Fuel usage in these things should be done on a case by case basis.

    Mine needs a tune (aka it's rich) so can run 91 no problems, gets better mileage on 96 though so more cost effective.
    Well I heard it - was told to me by John from Botany Honda who runs the workshop there. I'll phone Richard from Corsa and ask him what he thinks.

  3. #33
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    Funny things carbs, but they can definitely be tuned properly by people who know what they're about. Fouling plugs on 96 is a myth indeed, and they can be tuned to correctly meter fuel over the entire rev range. Definitely shouldn't so lean anywhere in the fuel curve that it runs funny. If it was hard to start because it was lean, it either wasn't tuned correctly, or the choke was faulty.

  4. #34
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    10th February 2005 - 21:49
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying
    If it was hard to start because it was lean, it either wasn't tuned correctly, or the choke was faulty.
    Bit of both... It's just tuned too much for top end and has almost no backpressure (old exhaust). New one has a little bit but it's still a bastard sometimes when very cold.

    One day my choke lever reversed itself. What the fuck....

    edit: the problem with 91 is that as it is a lower octane it is easier to burn and burns more completely (hence plug fouling myth coming into play with 96)... and burns hotter. 96 is harder to detonate/ignite and burns a little slower. 91 was getting the bike too hot (jumps up a notch on the temp meter) and running bad. Ain't a problem now as it has got too rich and a bit slower.

  5. #35
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    22nd January 2006 - 15:50
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    Just thought id breathe life back into this thread.

    My fuckin radiator fan aint workin on my zxr250's crappy single core radiator.

    So riding towards belfast yesterday with frequent stop starts the temp was up at about 2 mm off hot

    Is there an easy solution? apart from wiring up the fan to run off the same circuit as the headlight (which is always on)
    "Speed has never killed anyone!.... Suddenly becoming stationary, That's what gets you" - Jeremy Clarkson, Season 3 Topgear

  6. #36
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    3rd March 2005 - 14:04
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    Hi dudes
    I had the starting prob on one of these bikes too. Was the battery voltage too low. The battery was too sick to fire the ignition aswell as the starter so the starter sucked away all the juice. Battery seemed fine but when a new one went in it started first compression. I also had the problem of not starting when hot. Replace the cam chain and it also started every time. I balanced my carbs and set the mixtures and now it starts without any choke and runs sweet. Great bikes. Mines for sale if anyone wants one. See online trading or trade me ZXR250a in nelson. Later

  7. #37
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    3rd March 2005 - 14:04
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    Why isnt the fan working? Is it the switch in the radiator?

  8. #38
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    28th July 2004 - 12:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy
    Hi dudes
    I had the starting prob on one of these bikes too. Was the battery voltage too low. The battery was too sick to fire the ignition aswell as the starter so the starter sucked away all the juice. Battery seemed fine but when a new one went in it started first compression. I also had the problem of not starting when hot. Replace the cam chain and it also started every time. I balanced my carbs and set the mixtures and now it starts without any choke and runs sweet. Great bikes. Mines for sale if anyone wants one. See online trading or trade me ZXR250a in nelson. Later
    Ollie's bike has a new battery, new camchain, new plugs and I think a new fuel filter too.

  9. #39
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    1st December 2005 - 21:30
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    Bike is working sweet now... must just have needed some good old fashion riding to get it working as it should.

  10. #40
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    15th October 2004 - 16:56
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    Quote Originally Posted by .produKt

    My fuckin radiator fan aint workin on my zxr250's crappy single core radiator.
    Had the same thing on mine and solved in without trouble. The fan is connected to a main wiring loom through a plug. I just took apart the plug and ran wires from the fan straight to the battery through a switch. This is much better because it means I can leave the fan running whilst the bike is off if need be.

  11. #41
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    26th January 2005 - 11:33
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    what the duece superdave?
    what good will that be?

  12. #42
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    10th February 2006 - 15:02
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    Yeah Dood Join The Club

    First of all good buy the bike looks pretty awesome nice colour. Well there were a few good points highlighted by a few peeps on here so no need to cover that.

    Check on "N4CR" postings he seems to know that he's talking about. I have a ZXR250 95 C Model 24000k's runs pretty good. About oil check the manual most ZXR250 should run on 10w40 and use fully synthetic although it might be twice the price it's definitely worth it. Would be good to download the service manual and keep it. Comes in handy once in a while.

    If you are changing tyres use same type eg.crosspliers both front and back or radial dont MIX THEM ! Get right profile too. My ZXR250 95 c model is 110/70-17 and 140/60-18 make sure you get the right profile tyres.

    Soft compund sticky tyres like Dunlop Or Perili are good. Check the chain and the links plus saftey clip on the chain. Make sure it's not loose or old and worn out. Lube the chain after riding in rain. Check tyre pressure. Brake pads too.

    Dont mix oil drain it out completely and change oil filter as well when you're doing it. DOT 4 clutch fluid would be good. Check fork seals. And run on petrol that is best. I only use 91 for mine. Bikes have carbs and thats the best fuel for it. EFI - Cars then 95 96 or 98 in my opinion.

    Major work like valve clearence carbs cleaning and balancing will make the run like a completely new bike. I've had it done on my one runs like a dream machine. Mmmm Other than that basic maintance aye fella and you should be fine. Feel free to OM if there's anything.

    Alvin

  13. #43
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    22nd January 2006 - 15:50
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    Cheers for all that alvin . Have made a 'before weekend blat' checklist now .

    Also my zxr has 68,000 km's on it, about to run over to 70,000 and on wednesday its getting its camchain replaced (real noisey on idle) and valve shimmy thingys checked too =) yay! there goes a significant wad of cash =\
    "Speed has never killed anyone!.... Suddenly becoming stationary, That's what gets you" - Jeremy Clarkson, Season 3 Topgear

  14. #44
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    16th July 2005 - 08:55
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    Quote Originally Posted by .produKt
    Cheers for all that alvin . Have made a 'before weekend blat' checklist now .

    Also my zxr has 68,000 km's on it, about to run over to 70,000 and on wednesday its getting its camchain replaced (real noisey on idle) and valve shimmy thingys checked too =) yay! there goes a significant wad of cash =\
    how much to replace cam chain / shims etc? mine's just clocked 50,000 so I don't know if its been done before...
    Well the music is your special friend, dance on fire as it intends
    Music is your only friend, until the end
    Until the end
    Until the end!
    The Doors - When The Music's Over

  15. #45
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    10th February 2005 - 21:49
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    My shims cost $600 w/ carb tune/plugs/fluids/Suspension etc from Mt Eden motorcycles. If you truely care about your bike get it done when it hits 20k as per the manual...most people never do it. I'd rather do that (and not get a valve dropping into the cylinder) and get a tune at the same time as well as an inspection of the top end to make sure things are all dandy.

    I got my camchain done at 40k as it was getting pretty loose and slightly eating rocker covers - so might as well get it done in the same job. I think chains are $80 or $150 (either one can't remember now).

    Save your pennies and get that stuff all done at the same time, gets rid of noise and the possibility of having to buy and fit a new engine if something stuffs up. Makes it a new bike too. The best thing about getting it all done early and at the same time is piece of mind, the fact that you are not paying 3x for the mechs to do the same thing (pulling it to bits for work on similar areas of the bike blah blah).

    Enjoy your elite zx2rs!

    edit: gareth_d and superdave both have pulled these things to bits, I havn't done aaas much so more technical questions should get directed at them.

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