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Thread: Clipped vs Rivet connecting links

  1. #16
    Join Date
    29th October 2003 - 21:14
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    1999 Suzuki SV650S
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    Does anyone know if you can use a rivet link from an o-ring chain on a standard (non-o-ring) chain? I've got a standard RK chain on the bandit and apparently rivet links aren't available for them.
    The joiner link is a clip link and it's the type where the side plate is a clearance fit, not a press fit, on the pins. So if the clip goes, I'd guess the plate would fall off straight away.
    Reading all this stuff about rivet links falling off is making me nervous...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    21st August 2004 - 12:00
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    In my early days of riding, I have had an equal number of rivet links and clip fail. Having said that, I do tend to give chains a hard time, and a s a result I have to replace chains more often than most riders.

    In recent years I have used almost exclusivly riveted links, but I still carry a chain tool and a spare clip link for use in an emergency.
    Time to ride

  3. #18
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    26th February 2005 - 15:10
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    I have never known a properly fitted clipped link fail in road riding. However, I have no experience of racing where the loads are presumably higher.The properly fitted bit is important. And I only use good quality chain and links.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  4. #19
    Join Date
    12th September 2004 - 17:40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion
    I have never known a properly fitted clipped link fail in road riding. However, I have no experience of racing where the loads are presumably higher.The properly fitted bit is important. And I only use good quality chain and links.

    Same for me Ixion, never had a failure from a clipped link in 40 years !

    If you wander through the Bandit.com forum you'll see several drag racers think clips are no problem and some of them are up to 150 Hp out the back.
    Each to his own I guess ? G.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    13th February 2004 - 12:00
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    while my experience is limited, the clip link stayed put for the 13000ks I have had my 400, and probably did more distance prior to me owning the bike. It was a pain to get off too.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    4th January 2004 - 20:25
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    I have only ever lost one clip on a bike and that was just after I bought it.
    And have had bikes and raced on and off for 30 years, on and off road.
    My old side car (1100cc) with its weight and wide rear wheel use to load a poor chain to the max.

    Here is a tip or two that may help you guys out.
    When you put the clip on, first look at it and run your finger around it.
    You will notice that it has a shape edge and a rounded edge.
    Put the shaper edge to the OUTSIDE and that way it bites on to the pin and will hold on better and of course make sure the clip is facing the right way.
    I also put my chain breaker on both pins to make sure that the side plate it hard up to the clip.
    Hope this helps
    Feel the fear and do it anyway

    Don't confuse education with intelligence.
    There are alot of highly educated idiots out there.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    17th January 2005 - 12:14
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    My RS125 runs a clip link chain and I have had no problems and has never given me greif all I did was put on some silicone over te link and it helps hold it. My brothers RS125 also runs a clip link chain with lockwire holding it, I think that if you put the link on without damaging it you wont lose it in a hurry,
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  8. #23
    Join Date
    12th February 2004 - 12:00
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    Its not the load that makes the clip link fail, its the jerking from the chain... For instance on a race track, you will be spinning up the rear coming out of a corner, add to that bumps in the track and you have alot of movement in chain from the constant compression and rebound of the shock... This causes the clip to fail (ive had alot fail, and i too am sick of buying new clips)...

    So to sum it up... Race bikes, use rivet link... Road bikes... Use what you like, but a clip link and rivet link are the same price... better to have peace of mind isnt it???

    Hoon... Ray Clee got Nicko a RK chain tool... has heaps of different attatchments... $110 or $150 cant remember which...
    See Robert Taylor for any Ohlins requirements www.northwest.co.nz
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  9. #24
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    12th September 2004 - 17:40
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    [QUOTE=Two Smoker]Its not the load that makes the clip link fail, its the jerking from the chain... For instance on a race track, you will be spinning up the rear coming out of a corner, add to that bumps in the track and you have alot of movement in chain from the constant compression and rebound of the shock... This causes the clip to fail (ive had alot fail, and i too am sick of buying new clips)...

    So to sum it up... Race bikes, use rivet link... Road bikes... Use what you like, but a clip link and rivet link are the same price... better to have peace of mind isnt it???



    After reading this and your earlier post I'm wondering whether all the chain movement has something to do with more modern bikes and maybe more rear wheel travel ? Whatever , good advice . Good luck with the ops and recovery. G.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    4th January 2004 - 20:25
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    If you are breaking clips you may be damaging it when you are putting it on or off.
    Maybe by over stretching it, you can make it weak or to start to fracture.
    The clip after all is not under a real load, that is taken by the side plate's and rollers.
    The clip is just their to just stops the end plate popping off.
    Riveting is better but not all ways necessary.

    Because some are breaking clips and I do not know how you are putting them on and I have seen in the passed some people stretch the crap out of clips.
    So please bear with me if I'm teaching you to suck eggs.

    First it is easier to take the clip on and off, on the rear sprocket.

    Pic 1/ Bang the handle with your hand on the handle of the screw drive and the clip will pop off, you may have to tap one of the legs of the clip after this to get it off.

    Pic 2/ Make sure that "U" part of the clip and the two legs are in the groove of both pins.
    This helps you not stretching the clip to much and weaken it.
    Then give the shaft of the screw driver a good hit with your hand.
    And yes some times the clips fly's across the floor. (You can swear then)
    And check the clip is sitting in the groove, sometimes if you put the screw drive 90 degs to the clip and tap the handle will set the clip in the groove.

    By the way make sure you are using the right clip, as they can and do differ from brand to brand.
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    Feel the fear and do it anyway

    Don't confuse education with intelligence.
    There are alot of highly educated idiots out there.

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