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Thread: Painting a frame

  1. #1
    Join Date
    13th January 2006 - 17:35
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    bucket of rusty old Italian bolts
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    Painting a frame

    OK so I bought my first bike 5 months ago for cheap$$ because it was old, filthy, and leaked oil like there was no tomorrow. I rode it for a bit, and then pulled it to bits to fix everything. I got the frame and all the brackets sand blasted, and painted them. The problem I have is overspray. I painted the inside of the frame and then the outside. Trouble is, when painting the outside, some spray goes past the tubing and onto the inside of the tube on the other side of the frame, which has started to dry ( just ) and the overspray dries on top. How do I paint the whole thing fast enough to stop this from happening? or does anyone know a good painter who can do it for me? I was also thinking about getting the frame coated in something like HPC, but don't know if it comes in black, and is it high gloss? I don't want to get the frame powder coated because that stuff is too soft for stone chips, and it dissolves in meths, prepsol etc. If anyone has any ideas, they would be much appreciated.

  2. #2
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    12th February 2004 - 12:00
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    08 ZX-6R Race Bike, FXR150
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    Most bikes are powdercoated, so i dont see it being a problem, especially if it powdercoated properly...

    Only basic tip i would say is that hold a bit of cardboard on the inside of the frame to stop the paint overspraying onto the otherside...
    See Robert Taylor for any Ohlins requirements www.northwest.co.nz
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    12th January 2004 - 12:00
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    '87 CR500, '10 RM144
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    What are you painting it with?
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    13th January 2006 - 17:35
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    bucket of rusty old Italian bolts
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    I etched the frame with Wattyl super etch ( black, and top coat (2 ) with POR 15 hardnose ( black ). The paint is 2 pot and is surposed to be bullet proof, and it is full gloss.

  5. #5
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    7th January 2006 - 08:03
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    86 gsxr750, 2000 TL1000R
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    manurewa
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    hi MGST, not sure where you heard about powder coating dissolving in meths or prepsol but that is a load of shite!!! in fact it is extreamly durable!!! to th point where most sandblasters will get the powder coated item over baked (read burnt) to make it easier to remove the old powder coating!! it will resist the meanest stone chipping where as a 2 pot paint will be more prone to chipping due to its brittle nature!!! i had a frame powder coated 13 years ago and it still looks mint asides from a small patch that did contact the road, and that didn't even go through to metal!! just took the gloss off, like a suede look...if you want to hold onto the old classic i would suggest powder coating any day

  6. #6
    Join Date
    6th November 2005 - 09:39
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    my missis
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    auckland
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    72
    If the paint is 2 pac it should not dry that quick that it leaves dry spray, Hardner prob to fast.Either try a slower harder or you can spray thinners over dry spray before it's to dry and it will melt the dry spray into the setting paint.Good luck

  7. #7
    Join Date
    24th October 2005 - 18:52
    Bike
    1979 Kawasaki Z1300
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    Torbay, Auckland
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    375

    I had mine powder coated

    As you can see the coated one in the background on the hoist and the other, original one in front. I have to say that the powder coating is very hard and looks great, only drawback is having to re-tap all the threads as they get full of plastic.
    Project is nearly complete.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
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    6th August 2005 - 21:14
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    1988 Honda GB500 & 2005 Hyosung Comet 65
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    Maybe my standards are too low for you, but I brush-paint enamel on frames. Because it goes on fairly thick, it runs out to a smooth gloss, and of course there's no overspray. You'll need to sand the 2-pot with wetordry first. Because it's flexible, brush enamel doesn't chip.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    24th October 2005 - 18:52
    Bike
    1979 Kawasaki Z1300
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    Torbay, Auckland
    Posts
    375

    Powder coating might be more cost effective than you think

    I dropped the bits of and picked them up a week later, no mess no aggravation, and it left me time to get on with other things,
    Frame (Z1300 is not small)
    Swing arm
    Trees
    Lower fork legs
    Rear springs
    and loads of brackets and fittings

    All for $285 (that included the sand blasting). its a lot cheaper than me doing it. Plus I could put my time to more productive use, like sucking up to the wife so that she didnt moan about the cost of the restoration.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    13th January 2006 - 17:35
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    bucket of rusty old Italian bolts
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    Akl
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    Thanks for everyone's opinion and experience with powder coating. I wasn't too keen on it because I used to work at a place that made appliances, and they were powder coated and it was quite soft. I rang up the sand blasting / powder coating shop today and talked to the guy for a while about it and he uses the automotive powder coating and then a clear powder coat which is harder than the colour coat and shinier. The clear is also surposed to be resistant to petrol, grease etc. So I am taking the frame and swingarm there tomorrow after work for blasting and powder coating. Hope it will look mint when its finished. I will put up some photos when I get it back. Thanks again to everyone for their input.

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