Strange thing with my NC30

[cowpoos]

Bike shop certainly knows how to charge for them. Got the multimetre out. Battery showed healthy 12.98volts with engine off, then steadily increased to 18volts at two thousand revs. So i guess the reg/rec is stuffed after all. Anyone know where to get one at a reasonable price?????????

no thats what should happen.....voltage has to be aleat 13.2 volts to charge the battry... you need to check voltage after the rectifier to know weather or not its buggared....but if your not blowing light bulbs,etc.....I wouldn't worrie to much as it will be doubtful it blown or not working...

[Insanity_rules]

no thats what should happen.....voltage has to be aleat 13.2 volts to charge the battry... you need to check voltage after the rectifier to know weather or not its buggared....but if your not blowing light bulbs,etc.....I wouldn't worrie to much as it will be doubtful it blown or not working...

OMG Cowpoos good advise and you didn't say something like shoot it, its a Honda etc...... No wait, previous page!

[Ham]

no thats what should happen.....voltage has to be aleat 13.2 volts to charge the battry... you need to check voltage after the rectifier to know weather or not its buggared....but if your not blowing light bulbs,etc.....I wouldn't worrie to much as it will be doubtful it blown or not working...

18v is too much at the battery, it shouldnt even hit 15. Bulbs are the least of your worries with that voltage... get it fixed before it cooks the CDI

[imdying]

I'm with Ham. Anything over 15v at the battery isn't good. poos was just being sly... he knew the Honda would blow up eventually at that voltage

[vifferman]

Bike shop certainly knows how to charge for them. Got the multimetre out. Battery showed healthy 12.98volts with engine off, then steadily increased to 18volts at two thousand revs. So i guess the reg/rec is stuffed after all. Anyone know where to get one at a reasonable price?????????

It shouldn't be much more than 14.x volts at 5k rpm.
If you want a new R/R, go to Mt Eden motorcycles, or Motohaus. Don't get one from Honda, as they'll charge more, and they're actually made by the same company (Shindengen). Need any more help, let me know (PM) - I know summat about R/Rs, having replaced two and rewired my charging system on my VFR750.

[cowpoos]

18v is too much at the battery, it shouldnt even hit 15. Bulbs are the least of your worries with that voltage... get it fixed before it cooks the CDI

nope....its fine that sorta voltage...typically cars at 2000rpm plus are running 18.4 volts...the thing is your measuring it in the wrong place...the rectifier/regulator or what ever you wanna call it is after the battry...take the lead off ya head light and with the bike running and measure the voltage....

[vifferman]

nope....its fine that sorta voltage...typically cars at 2000rpm plus are running 18.4 volts...the thing is your measuring it in the wrong place...the rectifier/regulator or what ever you wanna call it is after the battry...take the lead off ya head light and with the bike running and measure the voltage....

With all due respect, Mr cowpoos - you're talking cowpoos.
This is not a car, and the battery is smaller and less robust. It will be cooked if subjected to too many zolts. R/Rs typically fail in one of two ways: the rectifier side can fail, supplying unrectified current to the electrics (fatal), or the regulator side of things (most common) can fail, either providing too few volts (battery continually loses charge), or too many (blows bulbs, the CDI unit, cooks the battery).
Most Honda R/Rs fail in undersupply mode, where the regulator side of the black voodoo magic inside the case has given up the ghost, and when it gets hot (due to no ghost cooling it down), the voltage drops and the battery gets sucked dry by the lights and ignition till the bike stops running (not enough spark). However, sometimes it can let too many ergs through as well. The specs for ALL Hondas say not more than 14.x at 5,500 rpm, or similar. However, 15.y is OK, as long as y isn't actually Y.

[ALTRON]

Yeah id recommend you don't get the standard NC30 reg/rec replacement as they are tiny little things with no heat sinks on them at all =no cooling

As I said before the Yamaha one I have is nice and chunky with massive heat sinks on it. It was second hand from the wreckers and has been going sweet as for many years now.

[vifferman]

Yeah id recommend you don't get the standard NC30 reg/rec replacement as they are tiny little things with no heat sinks on them at all =no cooling

As I said before the Yamaha one I have is nice and chunky with massive heat sinks on it. It was second hand from the wreckers and has been going sweet as for many years now.

A secondhand one is a good option, and you can use virtually any sort (Yamaha R1 units are good). The only problem is there's no guarantee a secondhand one actually works; there are some basic electrical tests you can do, but until you've got it on your VFR you don't know for sure if it's a goodun. Having said that, if you buy a genuine Honda (Shindengen) one, they refuse to guarantee it anyway!

[sAsLEX]

Yeah id recommend you don't get the standard NC30 reg/rec replacement as they are tiny little things with no heat sinks on them at all =no cooling

As I said before the Yamaha one I have is nice and chunky with massive heat sinks on it. It was second hand from the wreckers and has been going sweet as for many years now.

like the viffs says just get any reg/rec they are all doing the same thing! Mine looks like it has been replaced and is got a fair amount of cooling fin

[UrbanMyth]

always check yur petrol tap filter.Sometimes they can fall out letting 'gunk' in and sometimes blocking elbows in the pipe spilling loads of petrol into 2 cylinders instead of 4.

[UrbanMyth]

but after reading what people have said it looks like they are on track.
Good Luck

[Ham]

nope....its fine that sorta voltage...typically cars at 2000rpm plus are running 18.4 volts...the thing is your measuring it in the wrong place...the rectifier/regulator or what ever you wanna call it is after the battry...take the lead off ya head light and with the bike running and measure the voltage....

Put a multimeter accross your car battery, if everything is healthy it will remain between 14.4 and 14.8v at any rpm thats the r/r's job. If the voltage gets to high 15's for a while the battery will leak and spit acid all over the place

[arj127]

Purchased a new aftermarket rectifier from Red Baron for a fair price, (less than half of what a Honda one would cost). Tested the resistance from the stator wires, they were all within factory limits, so wired up the new rectifier and voltage is now at correct levels. Also noticed one of the plug leads was basically just sitting on top of the spark plug before i replaced them, and the vacuum line from the tank to carb was beginning to perish. Took it for a ride after work done and it seems to be sweet, revs nice and smoothly and nothing stupid going on. Hope this helps anyone else with similar problems.

[Qkchk:Me]

Purchased a new aftermarket rectifier from Red Baron for a fair price, (less than half of what a Honda one would cost). Tested the resistance from the stator wires, they were all within factory limits, so wired up the new rectifier and voltage is now at correct levels. Also noticed one of the plug leads was basically just sitting on top of the spark plug before i replaced them, and the vacuum line from the tank to carb was beginning to perish. Took it for a ride after work done and it seems to be sweet, revs nice and smoothly and nothing stupid going on. Hope this helps anyone else with similar problems.

Thankyou Qkchk for being an experienced NC30/CBR600F2 owner and recognising my fault

If I had seen your thread a wee bit early I would of recommended seeing Mike @ Mt Eden Motorcycles - he sells huge aftermarket recs that are pretty much bulletproof. I bought 2 from him with no probs. Cant remember how much but probably cheaper than RB. (Most things are cheaper elsewhere than there.......)