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Thread: FXR150 Sump nut tightness.

  1. #1
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    FXR150 Sump nut tightness.

    After changing the engine oil, how tight should the sump nut be put back on?

    I'm afraid if it's too slack it'll fall off at some stage down the road and the engine will therefore die from lack of oil. The other end of the scale is doing it up too tight, worry of the above and stripping the thread. That's expensive to repair too.

    My tool box has got one of those torque tools, so how tight should they go?

    I'd imagine this question also applies to car sump nuts too, I change my own car's oil as well.

    Thanks.
    90% of the time spent writing this post was spent thinking of something witty to say. It may have been wasted.

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    Around 16 to 18 lb-ft .Make sure it has the copper washer on as well if possible put a new one on each time .

    SENSEI PERFORMANCE TUNING

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyingpony
    After changing the engine oil, how tight should the sump nut be put back on?
    Should say in an owners manual, but I always just use the old arm torque meter and only use a short spanner

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sensei
    Around 16 to 18 lb-ft .Make sure it has the copper washer on as well if possible put a new one on each time .
    yeah seen that said in many places but never ever seen one even though been changin the oil on the four bikes I have had and my few cages.......

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sensei
    Around 16 to 18 lb-ft .Make sure it has the copper washer on as well if possible put a new one on each time .
    Too true ! or you can use the other method.
    Strip it and back it off half a turn !! G.

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    Y'dont need a new washer, just anneal the old one. A drop of loctite (removeable grade of course) will ensure nothing comes loose. Most people seriously overtighten sump and drain plugs. If you're paranoid, drill and lockwire it.
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  7. #7
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    Better still is Loctite 567 thread sealant.It seals any seepage and holds the thread.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sensei
    Around 16 to 18 lb-ft .Make sure it has the copper washer on as well if possible put a new one on each time .
    Awesome! Thanks. Now I'll know how tight to safely do it up.
    90% of the time spent writing this post was spent thinking of something witty to say. It may have been wasted.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pixie
    Better still is Loctite 567 thread sealant.It seals any seepage and holds the thread.
    Properly tightened this is waste of time. Any seepage that's getting past the copper washer indicates a washer that needs replacing, there should be no seepage.

  10. #10
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    you should always replace the washer with a new one and the only reason isnt for sealing ,the sump hole has a lead in , the washer can usually be formed into the lead in when you tighten it , and heres the tricky bit , when you tighten it a second time it can make a very powerful wedge that can split the sump thru the middle of the hole when its being tightened, seen it with my own 2 eyes .
    when i was at tech i got told of the 3 torque settings by hand
    t tight 1 finger
    bt british tight 2 fingers
    bbt british bloody tight 3 fingers

    and that is applied to the end of a normal ring open ender,

    and for a sump just use 1 finger

  11. #11
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    hand tight with a ratchet should do fine jus dnt get macho an hang off it.
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    do it up till it goes firm then give 1/8 turn, if you don't have a torque wrench. Not a bad rule of thumb


  13. #13
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    Another good idea is to wrap your thumb around the head of the spanner. Can't hold it near the end then, which stops you wrenching the crap out of it.

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