Brake Discs... What's the difference?

[placidfemme]

Ok, well I recieved his "letter" and I doubt it will pass... here is exactly what he sent me.... try not to be dissapointed:



And thats it

I'm faxing it to the compliance place now, and will let you know as soon as they get back to me...

Ok, based on the above letter... the wave disc's will FAIL the compliance test.

There are only four options:

1. Get Graham to register his brake disc's with LTNZ in Wellington and have them tested to meet approved safety standards (Which isn't very likely he will do it otherwise he would have done it by now anyway )

2. Get a Low Volume Cert for the disc's you have already brought for $300, and keep in mind that after you've paid your $300, they could still fail the safety test.

3. Get some "normal" disc's, put them on the bike, get the bike complied, then put the wave disc's back on (But remember that these disc's have not passed any safety standard tests... and do you really want to risk that? (And the legal implications... if any)

4. Buy some other disc's and use those...

So now I'm going to search and search and search and search for some other wave disc's, but chances are I will have to settle for normal ones

[bugjuice]

GGAH!!!! ffs

i have searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched and searched for normal discs for my bike, and there weren't any, which is why i ended up with these. i guess i'll just have to borrow some. i know they work well enough, and the bike is being on-sold anyway, so I'm not going to use anything risky.

Thanks again for phoning around etc, you've saved me a lot of work and money.. I guess I'll just have to find another pair of discs to borrow for a couple of hours..

[Brian d marge]

Can sent me a Pm and we looked on the action site there were 2 sets available for his bike Yzf 750 ther were selling for around the 30 000 yen mark , would cost around 5000 in shipping
Can look if you are stuck, no problems this end in browsing the auction site !!!

Stephen

[placidfemme]

Ok, recieved another e-mail from Graham saying:

Hi Tammy

Please find attached some info I recieved from LTSA regarding what needs
compliance and what doesnt.

In table 8.1 (Aftermarket brake rotors) you will notice that on all 3 points
my disc complies. So you can either show this to the person you have dealt
with so far or talk to Jamie at Holeshot Motorcycles about going through
someone else to get your bike complied.

Cheers
Graham

I've decided that I'm going to buy his disc's anyway. I'll give the dude at holeshot a call and see if he can help me out, and if not then I will just get some other ZXR wheel on my bike for the test and then pop mine back on after it has passed.

[jonbuoy]

I remember when discs were 6-8mm thick and had no namby pamby slots in them and lasted for ever.... But then poofy riders started wanting bikes to be lighter and go faster and stop quicker.... So things were made smaller and lighter and with a much reduced life span. The price you pay for progress. Best idea is to treat your modern sportsbike as a disposable item and replace it with a new one before it is 2-3 years old then you'll never have a problem. Or buy a bmw and put 250000 k's on it with only regular servicing.

Yup it doesn't seem to take much to make a second hand bike beyond economical repair. I think thats the whole idea of the makers.

[petesmeats]

Ok staying on the topic of discs and not starting a new thread... I am having a little bit of trouble with my brakes.

Basically when i got the bike (6 months ago) the brakes were fine and gripped hard and stayed gripped....

Since about 3 weeks ago they have started to be a little spongey and the initial grip is fine but then i lose braking power. The brake lever is needing to be pulled in further than when i first rode the bike. And the general braking is much softer...

What is most likely to be the problem?

I have talked to some mates who reckon that i should bleed the brakes. And i know that i should probably check how much meat is on the pads...

Firstly how would one go about checking the pads? Is it just a matter of taking them apart and having a look or is there a special trick to it?

I have had no experience working with hydraulic brakes (pre 87 GN250's have drums) but would like to have a play and to understand them.

Is it worth bleeding the brakes anyway? How often should this be done?

Cheers in advance for any ideas...

[Motu]

You could bleed them to get a firmer feel - but why is the air in there in the first place? Most likely from a worn master cyl.....on and on it goes.

[placidfemme]

on and on it goes.

ain't that right

[Stroker Girl]

Good luck PF with your discs. Hope it all works out for you.

Another query on the wave disc front, my partner recently had a few 'issues' at the testing station. The testing guy noticed a reasonable amount of movement in one of the rotors and was going to fail the bike. After a heated discussion he let it go but said it had to be sorted for the next wof.

Does anyone know how much 'movement' is too much, side to side and back & forth? Can it be repaired (re-riveted?)Tor need to be replaced? The rotors are fairly new 'BraKing' wave discs, which were on the bike when he bought it. Also, anyone know a good mechanic in Auckland who is knowledgable on this subject for a second opinion?

Cheers