Assuming the runout and min thickness on yer discs is ok I cant help but wonder if there is something funny happening with yer master cylinder.
The pads shouldnt retract that much..
Assuming the runout and min thickness on yer discs is ok I cant help but wonder if there is something funny happening with yer master cylinder.
The pads shouldnt retract that much..
If you love it, let it go. If it comes back to you, you've just high-sided!
مافي مشكلة
Sure Winja. I am listening.
Right now I would try just about anything anyway.
THE 9 HAS A BUSH THE AXLE WINDS INTO UNDO THE PINCH BOLTS SO THAT ITS STILL TIGHT BUT THE AXLE CAN BE SPUN , AS YOU SPIN THE AXLE THE WHEEL SHOULD STAY TRUE BUT IF THE AXLE IS BENT ESPECIALLY AT THE THREADED END WHERE IT WEAKEST THE THE WHEEL WILL WOBBLE BETWEEN THE FORKS, THE YAM MIGHT BE DIFFERENT IF IT HAS A THREAD CUT INTO THE FORK JUST WATCH THE WHEEL SEE IF IT WOBBLES AS YOU LOOSEN AND TIGHTEN THE AXLE, ANOTHER TELL IS ARE YOUR PADS WORN ON AN ANGLE NOT LEADING TO TRAILING BUT THE OTHER WAYOriginally Posted by CaN
That reminds me.Originally Posted by WINJA
On the Zeal the wheel bearings were stuffed letting the wheel move around a bit and when I replaced them, the brakes improved also. So check your wheel bearings as well.
Have you tried Frosty's suggestion except try pumping it twice or three times so that the pistons move out and stay out?
THATGOES WITHOUT SAYING BUT YOUD PROLLY NOTICE BAD WHEEL BEARINGS B4 IT BECAME A BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL TYPE PROBLEM, AND HOPEFULLY YOUR WARRANT GUY WOULD TELL YOU A BEARING IS BAD B4 THESE ISSUES ARISE .Originally Posted by erik
Ok things I have found out.
1) If you bleed your brakes with the bike on the side stand the RHS caliper will bleed properly, but the LHS one wont. So lean the bike to the opposite side whilst bleeding the LHS caliper.
2) If there is air in the main line and you bleed the brake by pumping the lever the air bubble pushes down on the pump then drifts back up as you release the lever.
Got to admit that number 2 is my theory, so I went and bought a vaccum bleeder and used a vaccum to pull the fluid through and there is a significant difference.
Brakes are still not as good as the X11 but then they are 8yrs and 25,000km older.
I have yet to check the axle, but will shortly. Thank you to all who offered help.
In addition to the axel check, if you are looking for bends and twists in an older bike then try turning the forks round in the triple clamps, .5mm of a bend can make a huge difference if it is bending the wrong way...
Motorbike only search
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - CRC AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE CRC. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE
Yep, you're correct, pain in the backside really.Originally Posted by CaN
If you've a bike that simply won't bleed, worse case scenario, you can alway take the master off of the bars and put it lower than the calipers, or vice versa.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks