The Search continues...

[Wenier]

Buy mine ZXR250 3k

[Ghost Lemur]

I agree with ya on the sucking part rettun.

Went and had a look at the cbr, bit rough around the edges, certainly had recent work done. Wont be buying it. Mainly due to the uncertainty surrounding the vining etc. i can't afford to have a lemon requiring bulk work for vin. The chain also looked quite loose (maybe it wasn't I don't know what tight or loose is). But I lifted the bottom up about 3-4 cm from where it was sitting.

Still considering the 2stroker in Wellington. Reasoning, It seems to have been well maintained including top end done in March, so the high k's should be too much of a hinderance. It's got bulk spares which is certainly a bonus when getting started.
Would someone in Wellington be willing to have a look at it for me?

Some other 2 stroke questions. How much oil do they use? The engine has 85k on it is that a problem even if it has been well maintained? What actually is involved in these "rebuilds", top end? bottom end? How much do they cost? Are there any other maintainence issues to think about apart from the increase in engine rebuilds.

Thanks again everyone.

[pete376403]

A full rebuild,done properly, on a two stroke would be expensive. All roller bearing crankshaft means the crank and rods are serviced as an assembly. While they can be pressed apart and have the bearings replaced, this is not a job for the faint hearted.
Cylinders on a modern bike are hard chrome lined, so rebore is not usually possible.
Power valves are expensive, and require regular attention.
Thats the down side.
OTOH, if the bike has been properly maintained, fed good quality oil and had the air filters looked after, there's no reason why it shouldn't last just as long as an equivalent sized four stroke. Bear in mind the 250 fours are revving to 18,000 or so. Not many two stroke will need those sort of revs to make decent power.
(The crank on my GS1100 is also all roller bearing - it's turned over 95,000 km without being touched)

[Ghost Lemur]

The 2stroke has been sold now. And the cbr is at $1700 (crazy people getting excited and bidding beyond worth).

But there is this '87 gsxr that I'll start watching. But I have a feeling that because it's a gsxr it too is going to go for a rediculous price. Does it sound like a fixable problem or is he right that it will need a new engine?

I'm quite proud of myself as I normally am the type of person to rush into a purchase with enthusiasm and then regret it when the reality of what I've bought sets in. With this I am more relaxed about waiting for that right bike to come along. Although of course I'd like to of had it like yesterday and be out riding already. But the longer I wait the more moeny I have and the better my options get, so there is an upside.

[marty]

broken cam chain = bent valves. don't go there. at all.

[marty]

have you considered one of these genre? late models, well priced, the 150 guys on here seem to like them - they certainly go well

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...n-11652827.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...n-11600085.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...n-11669591.htm

[Posh Tourer :P]

A chain should have roughly 4cm total play up and down at the tightest spot on it. This is a rough guideline only, and may change for different chain/sprocket combos (expert out clause if there happen to be exceptions). There can be some considerable difference in tight and loose spots on the chain, and this normally indicates an unlubricated chain. The chain itslef isnt really important, as it isnt *too* expensive to get a new chain/sprockets, but it is a good indicator of whether the bike has had any maintenance done to it....

[Ghost Lemur]

Going to look at an '81 cb250rs tomorrow afternoon.

Discription so far, dropped a couple of times superficial damage, wof runs out this month ( but he might consider getting a new one on it) been used about 3 times to go to and from wellington.

Is there anything special I should know about these? Any problem areas? It seems to fit the profile of cheap hack (while still being legally on the road) perfectly. Which is exactly the advice I got in my other thread for a perfect first bike.

Damn I'm loving this... although obviously not as much as I will going riding.

[What?]

He has to put a new WoF on it. them's the rules, these days.
Good bike, but getting on in years now. Check for rattley top end, otherwise all the usual stuff yolu've been told already.

[Ghost Lemur]

Went and had a look at the '81 cb250rs. k14 met me there and asked all the right questions for me.

It's got more ducktap than metal , mainly superficial (torn seat, broken screw on the light cover). It had been dropped, resulting in a bent back break leaver and partially snapped front brake leaver and damaged indicator. k14 took it for a quick spin and gave an ok on the mechanics, with a sidenote for oil change. The guy selling it is going back to Japan on the 7th so wanted to hang on to it till then, or the friday before. As I've still to sort out my licence I saw no problem with this, and even got him to agree to get a new wof on it before I collect. The motor was replaced by the owner before him, and he has had it the entire time he's been in NZ (4 years), and made 3 trips to Wellington on it.

So this looks to be my first bike. A hack as recommended. Not much damage can be done to it if I drop it while learning. And it's cheap which means I have either more money to spend on safety gear or some left over money to go towards my forhundy.

[Posh Tourer :P]

good choice... recently fixed up one of these for a first bike for a friend...The cam chain guide had slipped, and luckily they hadnt run it much and the valves werent too bent, we just checked them over and gave them a good grind. got it really cheap though...front brake lever is about $10 from mt eden motocycles, rest of the parts were manageably cheap, so good choice from that point of view. Look pretty simple and seem easy to maintain. Good enough power, good solid little bike....