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Thread: The dying battery

  1. #1
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    9th April 2006 - 15:55
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    Angry The dying battery

    what would cause the battery to die in a bike. i parked my bike up yesterday and then just went out to sart it and the wasnt eunf power to kik it over.

    why would it do this? could it be because i changed the flasher unt or indicators? and hooked up the number plate light?

  2. #2
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    25th October 2002 - 17:30
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    Yup, I'd be rechecking your wiring. Especially if everything was sweet before you did the work...

  3. #3
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    27th March 2006 - 10:29
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    Do you have a meter and know how to use it?

    If not get a buddy to check if there is a current draw when switched off.

    It that is OK then the buddy will also be able to check if it is charging by checking for a voltage increase above 12v when running.

  4. #4
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    9th April 2006 - 15:55
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    heres the reslots of testing

    i found that the number plate light is drawing .03 volt when the bike is off. i need to adjust the new mound because the old was plastic and the new is metal.
    so if i put a piece of pastic behind the light that should slove the problem

  5. #5
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    27th March 2006 - 10:29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattzxr750
    heres the reslots of testing

    i found that the number plate light is drawing .03 volt when the bike is off. i need to adjust the new mound because the old was plastic and the new is metal.
    so if i put a piece of pastic behind the light that should slove the problem
    Is that .03 amps as the battery?

    or did u put the volt meter (digital or analogue) across the light terminals and detect 0.3 volts?

    There should be no volts at the light or amps at the battery when switched off.

    Can't see how plastic would effect that.

  6. #6
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    9th April 2006 - 15:55
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    Quote Originally Posted by paturoa
    Is that .03 amps as the battery?

    or did u put the volt meter (digital or analogue) across the light terminals and detect 0.3 volts?

    There should be no volts at the light or amps at the battery when switched off.

    Can't see how plastic would effect that.
    i put a digal multi meter on the case of the light (pos side) and the other on the frame of the bike (neg side), thats the reading i got . so at the moment the light is unplugged

  7. #7
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    27th March 2006 - 10:29
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    Just read your first post, was that 0.03 volts, if so, then cheap volt meters will give readings like that. Just put the two probes together and you'll see what I mean.

    With the key off, go back to your battery and disconnect it at one of the posts. Very quickly flick the terminal across the battery post in the dark. You should see no sparks. if u do then something is wrong.

    There is a possibility that you could stuff your meter if you follow these instructions so proceed at your own risk!!!

    Put your meter on the volts setting and put it in series with the disconected battery. It should show close to zero volts again.

    Now wriggle stuff including moving the steering and watch the meter. If you see anything then something is wrong.

    This is the bit where you will likely blow the meter fuse or kill it.

    Now change your meter setting to the highest AMPS setting with KEY OFF. Again VERY quickly flick the meter probe across the post to make the connection checking for little sparks. If none then hold it on the post. The meter should show close to zero amps / current if everything is ok. Depending on your meter change to lower amps / current settings to get a better reading on any current draw. This should also be as good as zero if the voltage reading was zero.

    If thats all ok then reconnect your battery and on the volts setting again measure across the battery for its voltage. Start the bike and it should now be above 13/14 volts at a couple of 000 rpm.

    If all of that is OK then it is prob the bat.

    Good luck!

  8. #8
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    i give that a try tomorrow and i see what happens and let you know

  9. #9
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    As he said,

    but the new wiring is likely a red herring, I mean everything is off the ignition switch yeah?

    Either the battery has just died (vibration can eventually cause the plates to dislodge dramatically shortening capacity or a weak battery will fail to start a cold bike, esp on a cold morning, winter is the time old batteries die.

    But equally likely the charging system is kafut. With the lights on & above idle, say 3000rpm, it should provide 13-15V & not go above or below. If it is above regulator. If it is below the battery could be holding it down or regulator, or alternator. It seems like everything was tickety boo when it last ran, but the bike will run from battery alone for quite some time if the charging system was disconnected.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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