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Thread: How much (or little) wiring can you survive with?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    25th April 2006 - 19:53
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    1972 Yamaha XS2 650
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    Sunny Nelson
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    How much (or little) wiring can you survive with?

    My current project, another XV750, arrived without much wiring. The previous owner had customised it quite a bit (including using silicon sealant as a head gasket) and moved the fuse panel to where the air cleaner used to be under the seat. The fuse panel on these is normally up the front under the head light. Anyway, my question is, just how much wiring do you really need? I will be erasing all the usual silly bits like neutral and oil pressure interlocks on the starter and will probably move the start button closer to the battery, but what else do you reckon I could do away with? Are you required by law to have the light switch on the bars or can this be moved too? Less is better I'm thinking...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    24th June 2004 - 17:27
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    So old you won't care
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    Kapiti
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    7,880
    Depends how much function and efficiency you need.

    The charging cct can't be thinned down much but the distribution side of things often can.

    Be careful of things like charging lights, because on some systems (like Bosch) the resistence of the lamp control the exciter current in the alternator.

    Relays on things like lights and horns are generally a good idea if you like your handlebar switches to last and you value good bright lights but they do require more wiring. The key is sensible location of the relays.

    If you have some sort of electronic ignition, make sure you have good protection and enough current smoothing etc.

    Cheers

  3. #3
    Join Date
    26th February 2005 - 15:10
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    Ubrfarter V Klunkn,ffwabbit,Petal,phoebe
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    Well, A BSA Bantam will run just fine, and legally with just two wires (actually, one divided in two). Optionally with a switch in the wire.

    And many of the old Briddish bangers had hardly any more . Magneto ignition, wire from lighting coil of flywheel mag (or voltage regulator output on the Magdyno) to a switch, thence a wire to headlamp and another to taillamp. Done.

    You don't legaly have to have a main beam, and lighting switches can be anywhere you want (or nowhere).

    Corse, MODERN bikes, there's lots more regulations. Post 78, it gets real complicated . Gotta have indimatcators. And stop lights. Which means a blurdy battery. Don't like batterys.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  4. #4
    Didn't have no (charged) battery in my FA50.....mind you it got a bit scary at night because when you used the brakes the headlight went out.Stock wiring goes from here to there,over to there,back to here,then over here,there and everywhere.Just make it go where you want it and forget the trips inbetween.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    18th October 2005 - 16:47
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    Bandit 250(for sale), 636
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    I dont hoave enough, i need a temp gauge for my peace of mind.
    1990 Suzuki Bandit GSF 250 for sale 39k kms $3,500

  6. #6
    Join Date
    26th February 2005 - 15:10
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    Pssah. Temperature gauges indeed. Woz biking coming too when bikers need temperature gauges.

    Just do what the Scott riders used t'do. Unscrew the radiator cap. Ride with your dick draped over into the radiator water. You'll know soon enough if it's overheating.

    Works a treat AND keeps y'dick warm on these cold mornings.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  7. #7
    Join Date
    18th October 2005 - 16:47
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    Thanks but no thanks Ixion =/
    1990 Suzuki Bandit GSF 250 for sale 39k kms $3,500

  8. #8
    Join Date
    25th April 2006 - 19:53
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    1972 Yamaha XS2 650
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    How do you go from a question on wiring to putting your dick in the radiator? I am intrigued re the idiot light affecting the charging circuit, I'm and electrician and I still find bike wiring mind bogglingly weird, they keep switching negatives and weird shit.

  9. #9
    I think the only thing the Japs know about wiring a bike is don't do it the Joe Lucas way - that's the only bit they got right.But Joe had the colour codes sorted - black for earth,red for live,green for switched,brown for charging etc....and he never changed it in the middle of a bike! WTF is it with the Japs? Why do you plug an orange wire into a black wire? I am at a loss to make any sense of such a system.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    25th April 2006 - 19:53
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    1972 Yamaha XS2 650
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    Sunny Nelson
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    Blah

    This is the side cover of my current project, XV riders will recognise this spot as where the air cleaner usually sits, the clever buggers at Yamahaha thought "why not use the frame as the air box and slap a filter on the end of it"! The previous owner who dreamt up such innovations as the silicon sealant head gasket and the hose clamp to hold the speedo on thought it would be a good idea to put the fuses here instead and since he also forked up the carb boot intakes at the other end and destroyed the original wiring loom I am now stuck with making it work. I like anyone who will have a crack at anything but these guys need to be identified at birth and made into traffic wardens or science teachers instead of DIYers.
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