When we did the CM we simply plumbed her up and went.Since then we've lowered the compression for reliability,but it ran fine as it was.
There are a few kits around that bolt on with no mods,but most only run 4-5 psi,enough to give a bit of a boost,but not earth shattering performance.
The easiest way is draw-thru,where the turbo sucks thru the carb,you're supposed to run a fully sealed turbo to do this,but with the small amount of vacume generated on a bike,it's not normally too much of a problem.The turbo needs to be above the oil level of the engine( so it can drain back in...)and reduced compression will be a bonus.Make a simple intake manifold,with the inlet from the turbo at an angle so it doesn't aim at any of the ports,otherwise it will send more fuel to one of them,usually resulting in another being lean(not good).Make a set of headerpipes,simple,you don't need to worry about tuned lengths too much,as short as possible(helps reduce lag)running to the turbo.Find an oil feed,the pressure switch hole normally works well,and plumb it up to the turbo.make up a return for the oil,keep it big,and plumb it into the cranckcases(the clutch cover works well as you can remove it easily for machining)remembering to keep it above the oil level.Easy.
Things to watch for:Lack of oil volume/pressure,bikes don't have huge pumps or sumps so the bit you're stealing for the turbo may starve something else.....
Backfiring and blowing the intake manifolds off the engine,cured by fitting some sort of large pressure releif valve.
Mixtures,a turbo will melt pistons real quick if you lean out at high rpm....
Gearbox,clutch ect,if you're making twice the output of the stock engine(blown gears are common on non factory turbo bikes).....
Of course there's lotsa little common sense stuff too.
And contrary to belief,you'll need a muffler,a turbo is only quiet when it's not making boost.....
Good luck,and don't come growling when you blow it/yourself up......
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