New clutch installed, now there is now pressure on the lever

**Ixion** · 2nd November 2006, 10:32

Originally Posted by vifferman

Attached to the outside of the countershaft sprocket cover, on the other side of the en gine from the clutch housing. On the same side as the clutch lever.
At the end of the hose going from the left-hand handle handle handhandklebar.
Where the clutcher levererererrrr is.
Brain...

Brain... needs .... drooogs....

Uh, it's a cable clutch. Not hydraulic. So there will be no slave cylinder . Just a cable from the lever to a ranny-megrandad down at the engine left side

(I just went and eyeballed a VFR400 outside to be sure)

EDIT: has the lower end of the clutch cable become disconnected from the ranny-megrandad ? cos while the clutch was in bits there's nothing to keep it in place, sort of.

**Ixion** · 2nd November 2006, 10:36

Forget all mention of hydraulic, slave cylinders, air in system, bleeding. All total red herrings.

There's a bit missing, disconnected, or in backeards/upside down. Did you get the diaphragm springs the right way up?

**The_Dover** · 2nd November 2006, 10:38

**terbang** · 2nd November 2006, 10:38

Looking at the diagrams you posted and assuming they are the correct ones then it has a cable release. Is the clutch engaged or released at the moment. Put it in gear and try to push it along. If it is released and she freewheels (gearbox not connected to the engine as if you have pulled the lever in) then you have assmbled the plates incorrectly. If it is engaged (like when you let the clutch out or the engine is connected to the g/box) then you have assembled release mechanism incorrectly (or left out part of).

**vifferman** · 2nd November 2006, 10:39

Originally Posted by Ixion

Uh, it's a cable clutch. Not hydraulic. So there will be no slave cylinder . Just a cable from the lever to a ranny-megrandad down at the engine left side

(I just went and eyeballed a VFR400 outside to be sure)

Ah.
Misled by Mr Terbang.
Then if the clutch assembly is properly arse-M-bled, it must be the connection to the clutch throw shaft thingo (technical term) that's being naughty.
Been a few years since I had a cable-operated clutch....hmmmm....thinking....thinking.... 1994.
Last time I overhauled a clutch, I had problems with incorrect operation; the clutch basket bolts weren't correctly (evenly) torqued up, so the plates were sticking on the basket.
Make sure that the plates can move in and out properly in the basket; they could be binding on the basket fingers in a 'slightly engaged' position. (I'm just plucking stuff outta my arse here, trying to sound like I know stuff....)
"You laugh because you think I know fuck nothing. Well, let me tell you - I know fuck all!"
- Badly remembered from "The Moon's a Balloon" by David Niven (RIP).

**Postie** · 2nd November 2006, 10:40

Originally Posted by Ixion

Did you get the diaphragm springs the right way up?

I was thinking that, but I am 99% sure I did, still its the 1% uncertainty that worries me.

**Ixion** · 2nd November 2006, 10:47

Originally Posted by vifferman

Ah.
, it must be the connection to the clutch throw shaft thingo (technical term) that's being naughty.

Tch. Technical term indeed. If one is going to use technical terms one should get them right. It's actually the ranny-megrandad. As in my post above .

**Ixion** · 2nd November 2006, 10:50

Originally Posted by Postie

I was thinking that, but I am 99% sure I did, still its the 1% uncertainty that worries me.

Remember the clutch pushrod enters from behind to push on them . So they'll go in sort of backwards (Maybe y'should get Maurice to have a look at it, sounds like it'd be right up his alley. So to speak. He's used to that too)

**Postie** · 2nd November 2006, 10:59

this is how the springs are supposed to be installed, I'm sure they went in like this. Maybe I'll take them out again and make sure.

**erik** · 2nd November 2006, 13:18

Originally Posted by Motu

I have no idea of the bike you have,but most have some sort of actuator adjustment,a screw and lock nut....you adjust there before you fit the cable.Some have a rack gear,it's possible to get it in the wrong place.Show us a picture of the actuating mechanism and we might be able to see where it could go wrong.

What Motu said.

you've re-adjusted the clutch cable after putting the new clutch plates in, right? Since the new plates are thicker than the old ones, the cable will have to be tightened.

I can't see from the pictures you've posted whether that just means tightening the cable or if theres another adjustment. On the bandit there's a screw with a lock nut that needs to be adjusted before tightening the cable, but it looks like it's a different system to the nc30.

**Pixie** · 2nd November 2006, 23:10

Originally Posted by Postie

I didn't know it was hydrolic, I mean I know its hydrolyic but I didn't know it had a slave cylinder. I still don't know where it is. I'm looking through the manual now, trying to save a picture to show you, but I can't see any mention of a slave cylinder

Must be one of those new systems that has a master cylinder at one end and a magic clutch fairy at the other

**McJim** · 2nd November 2006, 23:38

I must be an idiot - I know nothing about bikes and after reading all these words I feel the urge to ask, very simply:

Is the cable too loose perhaps?

The clutch cable is attached to a little arm thingy (at the engine end not the lever end) when you pull the lever does the arm move enough?

I'll probably get red repped for this or you'll have already checked it - I'm trying to help and have not wrapped my help up in sarcasm or abuse.

Hope you get it sorted alright.

**Postie** · 3rd November 2006, 07:46

I took it off again last night, the centre lock nut was partially stripped and wasn't clamping enough. Pretty simple. and yes, it was put on with a torque wrench to 85 pounds which is right according to Honda.