Hmmm......
Jus noticed my choke cable has no freeplay.
If it was on slightly, richening it up, I wonder if that would explain why I seem to get away with running leaner MJ/needle combinations than others?
Hmmm......
Jus noticed my choke cable has no freeplay.
If it was on slightly, richening it up, I wonder if that would explain why I seem to get away with running leaner MJ/needle combinations than others?
Choke working better now but I will go up to the 160 main jet and drop the needle on the weekend as it doesn't feel right on the top end.
Also...
Springs are on the way!
$293US from Jesse Kientz.
The exchange rate was too good to pass up.
$380NZ for front and rear springs and rear adapter plate.
Hey Nordie, Welcome to KB!
Thanks, I think I'll like it here.
Your warped dude - I like it.
Cheers R
P.S. Did you muck with my bike? I stuck a 14 tooth front on and if felt like a completely different bike down the Eyre river last weekend. It felt like it pulled much more cleanly and stronger from lower in the revs and also would run at 100 at about 1/4 less throttle (but with more revs obviously due to the 14 tooth). I need to stick the 15 tooth back on but me suspects something is up?
Maybe I've just been of the beast for too long.
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
You've been off it too long
I just rode it home via the Whangamoa Saddle and measured the spring lengths etc.
The 14t makes a huge difference.
Your engine pulled nice and strong with the 15t it should be sweet with the 14.
Now get that header done and shim the needle.
Hang on...
Wonder if yours is using a different main jet to the rest of ours to suit that pipe?
Going from the 14 to 15 and back on the Nordie showed me what a difference it made.
Your right I should do the header. I've always wondered if I had a different jet given the different pipe. I'm a bit useless at tuning carbs and I've tried plenty of times (not the DR though) so I'm kinda nervous bout playing with the carb. A carb is about the only thing where the "if it aint broke dont fix it" applies.
If I end up going anywhere this weekend I'm going to stick the 15 back on to see if it is more like I remember it. Might to do the header as well.
Cheers R
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
Stick the 15t back on and take it for ride before doing the header.
The header should make it pull more cleanly throughout the rev range.
Hmmm...
Upped the main jet from DJ155 to DJ160 and the needle from 4th to 3rd from top today.
The bottom and mid range were fine but the top end felt like it was a little lean so I'll see how this goes.
I'd like to drop it to 2nd clip from the top but the spring wouldn't have any purchase on the needle.
70-100kph in 4th was about 3 secs.
70-100kph in 5th was about 4 secs.
About the same numbers as before but feels a bit better on top.
Need to do an air/fuel test.
This is why we let Nordie make all the changes then and only maybe then do we start fettling.
As an aside. The guys on the Yahoo DR650 forum got round to talking about the dualstar center stand again and somebody put up a link about a sw-motech centre stand as advertised on twisted throttle.com. They kindly put the installation instructions on the web as well which has enough detail for me to develop an "improved version".
Are any others interested in a center stand? If there is enough interest I might have ago at developing one for feedback. My first improvement would be to make it as easily removable as possible so that if going for a fang off road you can take the legs and springs off easily.
I like having a garage again
Cheers R
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
Actually there is a downside to the shortened spring
It seems that in gusty conditions the opened airbox can become pressurised enough to push the carb slide up without your input resulting in a dead spot for a second.
Spacing the spring out with some washers on the top back to previous length but still trimmed so it's stiffer still works better than the stock spring.
My problem is not enough needle above the e-clip fitting in the hole in the spring nylon thingy to make sure the spring won't go walkies.
May have to find a jet in between the DJ155 and 160 (DJ157.5)
I'm interested.
That stand has been "in development" now for about 3 years
A 1-armed, blind guy could have made them quicker.
As an aside to your aside, it seems that "Power Pegs" for the Husqvarna fit the DR with almost no modification - about $150nz.
Then I could nick the DR pegs and stick them on the XR (almost no mods) where I am in dire need of good pegs as I stand up a lot on it and the stock pegs are about 5mm wide and 15mm long![]()
ALSO...
When test riding your bike make sure you ride it with the gear you normally use...
Testing mine yesterday I wore a different helmet and no bikepack on the back.
I was a bit worried about the different sound it was making until I twigged.
I'm not sure about that centrestand, only works on lowered bikes etc seems a bit of a claytons centre stand.
I've not needed one on the road, the sidestand has so far sufficed for chain adjustments etc and in the carport (oh, for a garage!) I use a handy length of 100x100 but will admit thats a bit dodgy when the front wheel is taken off.
Interesting about the carb slide being affected by wind, maybe that airbox opening is too large? I'm about to do mine, so I might do a progressive enlargement with carefully measured guesswork and wild assumptions as to the effects of each stage.
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