Tales from the Emporium

[warewolf]

I'm curious - whats the cost of a set of sprockets and a decent chain?

I wish I didn't know, I've replaced three sets so far this year! It never rains, but it pours...

KTM steel sprockets are around $30/$75 Fr/Rr. Chain Gang superlight steel rears are around $135-ish but seem to last forever. 18,000km on the 640 and it's being retired (maybe temporarily) so it doesn't chew out the new chain; looks about 3/4 worn, hasn't rapidly crapped out with the old chain, never seen a sprocket survive this before. In fact I installed the KTM Alloy 42T for the Dusty Butt, it did 750km on the 3/4-worn chain and is utterly rooted.

From reading on the interweb thingy, I would put the chains in this order of decreasing quality:

1. RK GXW
2. DID VM2
3. RK XSO (or maybe = with the VM2)
4. DID VM

The RK XSO is within 10% of the performance of the RK GXW, but more than that cheaper, so (hopefully) will return lower $/100km figure.

RK seem to be much better priced than DID. RK XSO 520x110L chain $155, cheap for such a good chain. The DID VM 520x120L was $185 3 years ago. 525 sizes should be dearer but basically mirror these differences.

DID VM2 530x114L chain (for the Triumph) $310 but the RK XSO wasn't available... grrr. I expect to get 100,000km out of that chain on Chain Gang sprockets with a ScottOiler. Bit of an unnecessary upfront investment.

I should stop now.

[Crisis management]

You can happily run 525 chain to match the suzuki front sprockets with 520 rear sprockets for more choice.
The only difference is the width between the chain plates so the rear sprocket has a bit more space around it. I've only got a couple of thousand Km's on this arrangement but all seems to be working fine.

How effective are Scott oilers coping with sand and dust build up on the chain? I can appreciate their effectiveness in extending chain life but don't want to end up with a chain full of sand from some of the beach / woodhill rides around here.

[cooneyr]

From reading on the interweb thingy, I would put the chains in this order of decreasing quality:

1. RK GXW
2. DID VM2
3. RK XSO (or maybe = with the VM2)
4. DID VM

The RK XSO is within 10% of the performance of the RK GXW, but more than that cheaper, so (hopefully) will return lower $/100km figure.

RK seem to be much better priced than DID. RK XSO 520x110L chain $155, cheap for such a good chain. The DID VM 520x120L was $185 3 years ago. 525 sizes should be dearer but basically mirror these differences.

Interesting. Hadnt looked at RK chains but currently have an EK which according to the notes in the manual I got with the bike will last about 10k although I suspect that is with the original rear sprocket which has done 18k and is just starting to look sad.

Apparently the stock zuki steel sprockets are pretty decent (this is coming from the yanks on the the Yahoo DR650 group) and for the $ they are worth sticking with over after market. They don't ever mention chain gain sprockets so will probably come down to price on the day between CG one and the zuki sprocket.

I'm defiantly going for the 15/43 combo for the next haul so plan on sticking with the 525 chain. Don't really see much point in going smaller cause the sprockets I'm after are easily sourced. Not worried about the $ for the 525 vs the 520 but would rather never get caught out with a broken chain (I must be paranoid as I carry extra links and clip joiners and a chain breaker).

Cheers R

[_Shrek_]

You can happily run 525 chain to match the suzuki front sprockets with 520 rear sprockets for more choice.
The only difference is the width between the chain plates so the rear sprocket has a bit more space around it. I've only got a couple of thousand Km's on this arrangement but all seems to be working fine.

How effective are Scott oilers coping with sand and dust build up on the chain? I can appreciate their effectiveness in extending chain life but don't want to end up with a chain full of sand from some of the beach / woodhill rides around here.

hey Cm i put a scott oiler on along with a new chain & sprockets & only got 9k out of them they where completly shaged
i found only one side was getting the oil for some reason it did not lube the off side even when oiler was turned right up
talked to Phil @ dirt action also found the same on his KTM... so i brought a dubble feed and put that on so far have got 17k chain & sprockets not even half worn
when its realy dusty i just turn it up works in sand too

[Transalper]

My new favourate sprocket setup is the freewind 43 rear and DR 15 front. Still got all 525 sizing that way.
My Scotty has a duel injector to oil both sides, J's one has only a single injector but then she doesn't get hers as dirty as i get mine.
When in the crap turn the scotty up, it makes more splatter but also kinda washes the chain. I have a lube tube (extra capacity) hiddin in there somewhere so i haven't had to refill the thing in a while.

[clint640]

Scotty/mickeyboy had their oil change noted on some gaffer tape under the seat... low-tech effective solution.

I just do mine at even 5000km increments, odo is heading for 40k at present therefore almost time for a service...

Cost per km??? I don't want to know! - I spend 90% of my money on booze, women & motorsport, the other 10% gets wasted.

Cheers
Clint

[warewolf]

Apparently the stock zuki steel sprockets are pretty decent (this is coming from the yanks on the the Yahoo DR650 group) and for the $ they are worth sticking with over after market. They don't ever mention chain gain sprockets so will probably come down to price on the day between CG one and the zuki sprocket.

Chain Gang are an Aussie manufacturer and are hardly known in the USA or indeed most elsewhere. Legendary stuff in Aus, most safari-type competitors use them. The suzi product will only be mid quality at best, CG are top quality and also lighter.

sticking with the 525 chain.

I wasn't suggesting you change, just highlighting that you will probably pay more than the numbers I quoted for 520 size. BUT a 525 is overkill on the DR650; a modern high-end 520 will likely be stronger than the spec for the bike so you wouldn't have any reliability issues.

[cooneyr]

I wasn't suggesting you change, just highlighting that you will probably pay more than the numbers I quoted for 520 size. BUT a 525 is overkill on the DR650; a modern high-end 520 will likely be stronger than the spec for the bike so you wouldn't have any reliability issues.

Only thing is though where do you get a "good" 520 15 tooth front for the DR from? Maybe I need to do some investigating. CG don't do fronts do they (web site is down at the moment)?

Cheers R

[Transalper]

...BUT a 525 is overkill on the DR650...

so one might expect it to last well then.

[NordieBoy]

Only thing is though where do you get a "good" 520 15 tooth front for the DR from? Maybe I need to do some investigating. CG don't do fronts do they (web site is down at the moment)?

Cheers R

Just order a front sprocket for any pre '96 DR 600/650 ('85 till '95).
This bike came stock with a 520 chain. Choice in 14-15-16 teeth.
On the rear you can use sprockets for a '93 DR 350 or from a current Gas Gas 250/400/450 EC or an '02-'05 Husky TE.
Choice from 41 to 56 teeth.

[NordieBoy]

How effective are Scott oilers coping with sand and dust build up on the chain? I can appreciate their effectiveness in extending chain life but don't want to end up with a chain full of sand from some of the beach / woodhill rides around here.

It's a light oil and just flicks off with any debris.
Give it a wash and it takes all the crap off with it.
It only puts a drip per 30s or so onto the chain.

[warewolf]

CG don't do fronts do they (web site is down at the moment)?

Use this link. Their default page is pointed to an old update message.

They make rear sprockets and brake discs, on-sell front sprockets, chains and scottoilers.

Fronts work harder than rears (roughly 3x if that's the gearing you run) so plan to replace the front at least once before it takes out the chain and rear sprocket prematurely.

[Transalper]

The Superbrace... first thing i noticed was the brace hits the bottom edges of the mudguard so looks like i'll be giving up my 15mm front of bike shortening by sliding the forks back down in the clamps until at stock height.
Thinking about messing with the guard, would have to cut the edges just enough so that the brace can almost hit the inside top of the guard instead of its edges. But that would be cutting about 30 to 35mm up in to the guard. Then of course i'd need to strengthen or brace the guard to compensate. Don't really want to replace the guard with a different style but might be force to look around for options.
The gaiters are way too long now too.

I suspect by reading some reviews that it might be more a case of you don't know what you've got until it's gone with the brace. That is I might not notice much if any improvement in handling from the install but if i later remove it then i might notice every thing suddenly feels like shit.

[NordieBoy]

Hmmm...
Same feelings here.
The DR handles fine with the stock springs and feels very different but fine with the new ones.
If I went back to stock I think I'd be cursing the spongyness.


If you want to get rid of the brace though...

[Transalper]

It's a 10 minute job to stick it on so maybe if ya want to try it out for a day sometime we might be up for that.. actually more than that once we do something with the fender.
Don't think i'd be selling it once i've cut notches in my guard, i think i'd keep it just because.
Will price a new guard or two tomorrow, and visit DAS to hear their opinion on the fitting issues.