Tales from the Emporium

[Mole_C]

No reason.
4x9mm holes would probably be the sweet spot.
At 7.5mm I noticed an improvement and at 11mm I think it's just louder and closer to the edge of the metal.

Right so theres nothing tricky about it? Just drill the 4 holes in the pic and its done? How deep do you need to drill them and does it have any negatives?

Cheers

[NordieBoy]

Right so theres nothing tricky about it? Just drill the 4 holes in the pic and its done? How deep do you need to drill them and does it have any negatives?

Cheers

As deep as you want - or just through the 2 stainless layers
You will want to raise the needle a bit after as it will lean it up a bit more.
If you find you don't like it you can locktite some bolts into the holes and it's back to stock(ish).

[Mole_C]

Well it now has 4*8mm holes sorta nearly evenly spaced in it Will take it for a quick ride 2mrw then try raise the needle up a little and see which is better. Just got the stock DJ in, 155 and 4th clip atm.

Isn't too much louder but has a different, harsher sound to it now. I quite like it really

[NordieBoy]

Mr Centre Punch is your friend...


Hmmm...
I'm running 3rd from top clip with the 155 DJ, open airbox top and removed backfire screen.
Before I removed the backfire screen I was running a 150.

[NordieBoy]

The complete Takaka Hill....

[warewolf]

Go to bed Fran!!

[Transalper]

What does it look like if you stick it all together and speed it up so we can see the whole trip in 5 minutes

[NordieBoy]

What does it look like if you stick it all together and speed it up so we can see the whole trip in 5 minutes

Don't go away...
I'll be right back...

[NordieBoy]

The ADHD version of the Takaka Hill ride...

[NordieBoy]

Did another Maungatapu-Pelorus and return today.
I'm getting more confident standing now, it's feeling more natural.

Hopefully get to try out the same techniques tomorrow on the mighty XR.

[NordieBoy]

Annnnndddd the answer is.... No.
The XR is totally different standing but some pegs with actual teeth and a bit of size would help.

I did 4 or 5 laps at the LaidBack today and the surface varied from nice swept gravel forestry roads to wet smooth-rock climbs to rocky shitty downhills and everything in between. Even a grass section - 50cm wide and 5m long.

One thing I noticed was when I got back after a couple of laps that I was telling my brother my usual sob story "twitchy front, no grip on the front, front suspension hammering my arms whine whine whinge" that I hadn't even mentioned the back with it's new shocks.

The back end just did what it's supposed to.
Usually when I get on it the first time it feels like the swingarm is broken but not this time

The twitchyness will be because the front is 2.5cm lower (23" to 21" wheel conversion) and the back is 2cm higher (new shocks) than stock.

Imagine dropping your forks 4.5cm through the clamps

We're going to pull the shocks apart and put in a 2cm spacer to limit the travel and re-oil and gas (easier than finding a 1981-2 XR250/500 forks and wheel before next weekend).
Ran 100psi in the shocks but now I read it's ment to have 250psi but seemed fine.

Was very tempted to ride the DR over the Maungatapu and back after though

[Transalper]

Hey Nordie, could you chuck us a couple of close (ish) pictures of the braided brake line.

[NordieBoy]

Braided line sheilding thingy...

[marks]

The ADHD version of the Takaka Hill ride...

Man can you ride fast or what...

how do you find the video cam now that you are used to it - is it ok for trail riding rather than just fluffing around on the tar seal??

[NordieBoy]

I want to see how it goes mounted to the helmet but am still working out the details.
I've smeared the batterys and card with some of the silicon stuff that comes with it and vibration isn't an issue with turning it off/card errors even in a x-country race.

Next month it's going to be mounted on drag cars, karts, bikes...
Fun time