Tales from the Emporium

[NordieBoy]

Hmmm! Thanks for the pic NordieBoy. I have opened up my airbox and gone to the middle dynojet but think your holes idea better than trying to get the CBR600 can i have welded up. I shall get the drill out on Saturday.

Do some 70-100kph 4th gear tests and get some numbers to compare to.

I started with 5mm holes and ended up with 11.
Also get some good stainless capable bits and drill slowly.

I've got about 6 knackered bits here because I didn't know this

[twotyred]

Looks like the hot pipe for the DR is the 97-02 GSXR1000 pipe.
More torque and power than the FMF Q2 and cheap off e-bay.

heres a look/listen to a GSXR1000 pipe on the DR

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xgNqW1MvXQ

[NordieBoy]

Yep, Rob has done quite a bit of work on his DR
Have a look at some of his other vids.

[GaZBur]

Hi Nordie - another question if you don't mind. I started drilling the holes and noticed from the pic that you have gone through the second layer as well. I started the bike and gas was pumping out of the holes and I had not gone through the second layer yet. So does it make any big difference you think - should I keep drilling? I have only drilled smaller pilot holes so far, yet to get the 8mm bit out. You were right the stainless is damn hard to drill!
Just spent a couple of hours helping sort out Marks DRZ400 for Sunday Racing.

[timg]

You were right the stainless is damn hard to drill!

Use a cutting oil, it makes a world of difference. CRC do one in a spray can or any engineering supplies store will have some. Cheers.

[NordieBoy]

Hi Nordie - another question if you don't mind. I started drilling the holes and noticed from the pic that you have gone through the second layer as well. I started the bike and gas was pumping out of the holes and I had not gone through the second layer yet. So does it make any big difference you think - should I keep drilling? I have only drilled smaller pilot holes so far, yet to get the 8mm bit out. You were right the stainless is damn hard to drill!
Just spent a couple of hours helping sort out Marks DRZ400 for Sunday Racing.

The end cap is just a cosmetic covering. You need to go through the inner one as well. The good thing is that if you don't like the effect you can bung some bolts and loctite into the holes.

Some just get a very long bit and drill out straight down the centre of the pipe but that's not very reverseable.

Use a cutting oil, it makes a world of difference. CRC do one in a spray can or any engineering supplies store will have some. Cheers.

Good quality bit, cutting oil and slow

[GaZBur]

Thanks for the tips guys. Didn't have any cutting oil but I only stuffed one drill bit. 4 x 8mm holes drilled and you were right - the slower you can get the drill to go the better it bites. Not ridden it yet but noticed already that if you suddenly rip the throttle open from a fully closed position there is no initial half second lag before the revs build like it used to! So thats a good start.
What do we need - More Power!

[NordieBoy]

Raise the needle a mm or so, grind the header weld, remove the snorkle and drill the pipe.

The good cheap almost reversable mods.

The 2nd hole in the carb slide also helps throttle response (lets more air in to lift the diaphram - or is it lets more vacuum act to lift the slide?).

[talbertnz]

i've got 4 pretty holes in the pipe as wel now and realy need to do something about the jetting!!! used 4mm first then 8mm. and yes 3 drill bits later.. hehe..
"there is no initial half second lag before the revs build " Yep thats what I find as well! Got a surprise 1st gear roll on wheelie this morning ... front wheel only came down just in time for me to use the front brake and not crash into some cars phew... Thanks Nordie!!

[Transalper]

So how are the holes going to affect the spark arresting properties of the muffler, especially when going through a scrutineering for an event requiring spark arresters?

[NordieBoy]

Borrow one of CooneyR's strainers and a biiiiiig hose clamp for the arrester.

Talbert, raise the needle just a touch (1mm or so) esp if the snorkle is off the airbox.

[NordieBoy]

I'm finally getting somewhere with my carb issues.
Very boggy down low and running very rich with jetting that should be slightly leaner than optimal.

Float levels...
The metal tab to adjust the float levels is basically being allowed to move around a bit on it's mount and adjusting the level as it wants and not as I want.

[NordieBoy]

8000km on the Shinko SR244 tyre set now and the rear is down to maybe 2-3mm in the middle.
The front is... well... not showing any wear at all really

[NordieBoy]

Finally swapped out the rear Shinko SR244 for a half worn TW42 off a Trumpy hire bike.
The Shinko is down to about 1.5-2mm in the centre and 3mm on the side of the centre knobs (14.3mm new).

Got a slow leak in the front some time coming back from the MX on Sunday as on Monday morning it was flat. Pumped it up and it was only losing 8psi per hour so booked in for a tube/tyre change at 2pm Tuesday.

Of course on Tuesday it was dropping 15psi between petrol stations and as my 1st job was an hour long it was flat but luckily the client had a small compressor Rode home with only 1 top-up and bunged some blue tyre goo in. I could hear it bubbling out from somewhere very close to the valve stem. That stuff really works well Not even a .5psi drop in the next 3 hours.

The tyre had walked on the rim (no rimlock on the front) which is weird 'cause I don't run less than 25psi in the front on the road.

The front Shinko SR244 is down to 9mm from the new depth of 14.3mm.

Both Shinko tyres have done 9410km.
Not the best grip in the world but a nice tyre that only washed on the front when running >20psi on gravel and the rear slid quite easily but was very predictable and smooth.

Next tyre set will be a pair of IRC GP110's.

[NordieBoy]

Well I don't like the TW42 as a rear tyre off road.
It's fine in the gravel but the compound is just too hard.
The E-07 and to a lesser extent the Shinko 244 would grip nicely ideling up (2600rpm) a steep hardpack rocky incline whereas the TW42 is breaking loose and spinning up all of the time.
Same on the downhills where it wanders around under engine braking.

I want to try some IRC GP110's just to see what they're like.

I really liked the IRC GP21F front though so may end up with a GP110 on the back and GP21 on the front.