Tales from the Emporium

[JATZ]

.

Scottish. Why?

AAAHHHH, 'nuff said

[warewolf]

when I went in today the SKF guys said they should last 50-60000km easy.

Is that the same SKF guy that tells me he replaces all his in road touring bike every second tyre change (around 20,000km) because they should really be done then?!

[NordieBoy]

Ahhh...
Road Touring is much harder on the bearings.

If I get 2 tyre changes out of my bearings I'd be happy

[topo]

nordie, where did you find that little puddle then?

[NordieBoy]

nordie, where did you find that little puddle then?

Top turn-off to the main track up the first pylon track.
Looks a lot bigger in person

[Padmei]

I went out the other day on one of the driest days yet & got stuck in the muddy patch by the top Was a bit too far left & got complacent.

Took my helmet off ready to drag gonzo out when another rider turned up & gave us a push

[NordieBoy]

Was that in that good boggy bit on the 1st pylon track?

If so, that's a really good boggy one

You've got MT21's on haven't you?

[JATZ]

Wotcha done with the old muffler of the 650 ?

[NordieBoy]

Sitting in the shed just in case.

[Padmei]

Was that in that good boggy bit on the 1st pylon track?

If so, that's a really good boggy one

You've got MT21's on haven't you?

No it was on the main track... You know, the bit where all the boring people go right instead of challenging themselves

yeah The Mt21s were acting like a paddle steamer.

[NordieBoy]

Got to my first job this morning and noticed there was no neutral light

Click - click - click...

So after a careful ride home I laid it over and then picked it up again and laid it over on the proper side


The fiddly bit was opening up the split-pins on the brake lever...

Finally got the cover off...


And what did I see!

Nothing.
It was fine.
Both screws were tight.
I undid the accessible one and put some studlock on it and did it back up and if I'd had a 29mm? socket I would have had the clutch off and done the other as well.

The bonus is that the light works now


EDIT: Just a thought but I wonder if anyone has used some metal epoxy/JB Weld and put some wire mesh over that hole below the NSU. Should stop anything larger than oil getting into the gearbox?

[cooneyr]

You need the "tool". I got a 6mm ring spanner and a Phillips head bit (from a multi bit screwdriver set) and hammered it in (was a nice tight fit). By grinding some of the top of the bit there was just enough room to fit it between the screw and the clutch basket. I could bring the tool up at Xmas if you want (you still got it Transalper?).

Alternatively and possibly better would be to remove the Phillips head screws completely and replace them with hex head bolts. Much easier to tighten. Once lock tighted there seems to be no problems from my reading.

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

4 10mm bolts and one 29mm and the clutch is off.
I was going to go to hex heads but that'll wait untill next time I'm in there.

I was going to make one of those tools but as it was still tight and I needed to get to my next job I just studlocked the one I could get to and bolted the case back up.

They normally start to get loose about 10,000 miles or so and mine has done about 50,000km and they were still tight and now one is tight and loctited as well

[NordieBoy]

Noticed the 14T JT front sprocket is getting past it.
It's basically done 15,000km and is about as worn as the PBR 14T at 6,000km.
22,000km on the 43T rear and it still looks good.

Next time I replace the chain I'll go to a 520 setup.

The first RK 525 XSO chain was dead at 8,500km (after the last ride I did on it I had to adjust it 3 notches) and the current chain has done just over 8,000km and is still sweet even with 2up trips through the Maungatapu, Mt Duppa, etc and lots of river crossings which is what I think killed the last one.
The DID X-Ring that was on the bike when I got it got pulled off at 30,000km and is still in pretty good condition length-wise but had a few tight links.

[talbertnz]

You need the "tool". I got a 6mm ring spanner and a Phillips head bit (from a multi bit screwdriver set) and hammered it in (was a nice tight fit). By grinding some of the top of the bit there was just enough room to fit it between the screw and the clutch basket. I could bring the tool up at Xmas if you want (you still got it Transalper?).

Alternatively and possibly better would be to remove the Phillips head screws completely and replace them with hex head bolts. Much easier to tighten. Once lock tighted there seems to be no problems from my reading.

Cheers R

I just had my one fall of a couple of months back and ended up pulling the clutch of. the worst part was i could not find the screws andthe other bits....

took me long time to get them out!!!!!!!

I ended up making a magnetic probe. I cut up one of those magnetic screw bit holders (have about 10 of them anyway..) got the tiny magnet out (3x5mm) wich was verry strong for its size! I used a piece of wire and made a tiny little basket for the magnet on the end of it using needle nose pliers. i poked it into the oil drain hole and got all the bits out 2 screws spring and switch pin thing.
Best fishing i've ever done!!!! still have the probe, has proven handy ina few other occasions.

ah... then after i got all my bits out i decided to fish a round a bit more just in case... and uhm.... ended up fishing another small screw out of there..... problem is i realy dont know what that one would be from...... so i asumend it must have been a screw from the neutral light switch that would have fallen out before with the previous owner... and his lazy mechanic did not go looking for it.... I hope...... cant find anything else in the manual that looks like that screw inside the engine