Tales from the Emporium

[Transalper]

Saw MarkS today as we were about 1/4 way in to the Porika Track from Howard Valley. He was on the KLR with luggage and looked like running E09s.
He had come up from the lake end and was going out toward the Howard.

[NordieBoy]

Next time you see him hassle him about stalling the KLR on the Maungatapu

I thought an auto clutch made stalling unpossible...

[cobber]

Now I've got the beadcream/levers/patches/spare tubes I probably won't get another puncture again.

Unless it's the day I leave them at home...

PS. Even with my riding style the rear MT21 isn't going to last long...
I think I'll bung another SR244 on there until the wallet recovers from the Pirelli hit and then try an E09.

Fan, hate to spoil the day but dont puctures come in threes like most other problems or if you count the pinches you might be ok for awhile, especially with all the repair gear sorted,

[NordieBoy]

So I should be due for another puncture in oh... 2012

[marks]

Saw MarkS today as we were about 1/4 way in to the Porika Track from Howard Valley. He was on the KLR with luggage and looked like running E09s.
He had come up from the lake end and was going out toward the Howard.

Was good to see you guys at such an out of the way place.

TKC on front E09 on back

how did you guys find the south end of the Porika?

Next time you see him hassle him about stalling the KLR on the Maungatapu

I thought an auto clutch made stalling unpossible...

I'm special - I can stall anything - actually I think the low speed jetting needs a fiddle

[Transalper]

...
how did you guys find the south end of the Porika? ...

Good When we got down to the lake we turned around and climbed back up, then turned around again and went back down to the lake again.
I reckon there is not as much chunky loose stuff on the south slopes as the last few times I've done it. That or I was just having a really good run and on balding E07 rear/ good knobby front combo.

[NordieBoy]

Ok....

I guessed at some settings for the setup I'd need with the new emulsion tube and went from:
DJ155, needle 2nd from top, Pilot 45, Pilot Air 1.2, worn emulsion tube.
to
DJ160, needle 4th from top, Pilot 45, Pilot Air 1.2, new emulsion tube.

The dyno graph showed I'm down .5 HP and 2 ft/lbs on the best SuperTrapp settings.

But the SuperTrapp run was done with worn TW42's not good MT21's.

My guess for jetting was pretty close
Lester says I should drop the needle 0.5mm.

Check out the Air/Fuel - The new one is the red one...

[warewolf]

My guess for jetting was pretty close
Lester says I should drop the needle 0.5mm.

Check out the Air/Fuel - The new one is the red one...

Nice line! So you need to go a bit leaner (higher air/fuel ratio)... by dropping the needle?

[NordieBoy]

That's the one.
Leaner by half a clip.

We did 3 runs to make sure we wern't getting a bad reading. Lester was worried the line was too flat

I am rapt how smooth that line is.

Soooo....
Current status is:

• Snorkle removed and airbox top opened
• TwinAir filter
• Backfire screen removed
• NGK CR9EK twin electrode plugs
• Header weld ground flush
• Hindle mid-pipe
• GSXR600 muffler
• New non-brass emulsion tube
• DJ160 main
• DJ needle 4th from top
• 45 pilot (up 1 size)
• 1.2 pilot air (up 2 sizes)
• 3.5 winds cut off the carb slide spring
• 2nd hole drilled in carb slide

[NordieBoy]

Ummm...

When I fitted the new emulsion tube I set it up as DJ160, needle 3rd from top and it was a bit boggy so I opened it up again and intended to drop the needle a notch to 2nd from top and accidentally went the wrong way and made it even richer at 4th from top which is how it dyno'd.

Now, needing to make it 1/2 a notch leaner I opened it up and the little 0.5mm dynojet washer that sits on top of the needle clip... was under the needle clip

Putting it back on top is my 0.5mm adjustment

[XF650]

Not sure if this helps you Fran - same motor but extra carb.
Since dyno, found it to be running a bit lean at high altitude. So have lowered the air box lid (reduced air intake) a smidgen, to compensate. Probably needs another dyno run to check.

[NordieBoy]

Holy crap that's rich down the bottom!
It'd be blowing black deisel smoke out the back!

More power than the DR's single carb.
That's why CCM used it as the base for their bikes.

They should richen up with altitude - less oxygen content/thinner air.
Over in the states they are finding the slightly modded DR's don't need the needle raised for those riding at altitude.

Really rich 3-3.5k
Really lean 4-6k
Nice 6.2-7k
Leans off again 7k to redline.

Wonder if that's a typical profile for the XF?

I'd be looking at either dropping the pilot size (blocked pilot-air maybe) to help the low revs and going up a size on the main to richen the mid/top?

Twin carbs are confusing.
The Nordie has a conventional top-pull carb one side and a CV on the other.

Shane asks if you've dropped the front sprocket a tooth yet

[XF650]

The XF carbs are a bitch to get at but yes, it is probably time to have another fiddle. Re-test on the local dyno not expensive either.

Tell Shane that 14th sprocket & better (EO9) tyres went on straight after the Porika incident.

[NordieBoy]

Tell Shane that 14th sprocket & better (EO9) tyres went on straight after the Porika incident.

He will be happy to hear that

[clint640]

Good stuff, nice to be able to back up the tinkerings with dyno info.

Last time I stripped down the BST40 on the 640 for a clean I noticed that the slide was pretty worn so I might give the carb a birthday at the next service; slide & slide guide, needle & needle jet at least. You haven't spotted a well priced rebuild kit for the Mikuni anywhere in your travels have ya?

Cheers
Clint