my understanding of dry weight is that it is derived by adding up the weight of all the components of the bike, not from getting a ready to ride bike and draining the fluids out. Also its from the blueprint parts, not from a factory one (which might have a weight tolerance built in).....
Putting it in perspective a bit, a SOHC Honda 750 4 is about 215 kg dry (if I remember) and my 900 Hornet is under 200kg with a full tank of gas ready to ride.... the 750 has 67 Hp and the Hornet about a hundred. Power to weight ratio, thats the key.
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There is a similar thing with measuring horsepower. I forget which way round it is but the EU and US standards have different atmospheric pressures and temperatures for measuring at so depending on which standard it is measured to it can be different. Only changes by a few hp but if you are buying off stats and not from what feels best on a test ride then that probably is important to you
But if they all lie - do they lie consistently?
No. So the published weights are not any use.
My usual bleat is I wanted to upgrade my YZF a few years back, the GSXR750 at 166kg was the pony to have.
Wet weight 207.5kg. Oh! Suzuki seem to be winning the weight war by lying the hardest.
For the record my old school (hate that expression) superbike now weighs 202kg with a full tank on certified scale, ~ R1 weight. Took a bit of work but feels lighter & more fun to ride. I could strip another 4kg with some more time & another 4 with a bit of money (still no carbon or Ti), much more very easily if it wasn’t a roadbike.
Still in the old days we had leaded fuel, maybe that was why bikes were so heavy?![]()
But my bucket weighs 60kg no gas but ready to go,![]()
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I read once an article about different types of power. The guy said there are three ways of measuring the power:
1. at the crank with only the devices needed for the engine to run attached - that called brake horse power (as opposite to horse power for the other two).
2. at the crank with all the devices attached - the guy was saying that usually that's the power you see in the specs
3. the "actual" power - the power measured at the wheel.
If the manufacturer says BHP (brake horse power), it means that is the first one. Unfortunately they usually use the term horse power (HP), and the number measured at the crank, and try to make it blurry enough so the buyer would think it's the number from the wheel measurement![]()
BHP and HP are the same thing,it's just that the ''B'' is dropped.The original dyno's were called a brake dyno,because that's what they were - an external contracting brake band hooked up to a spring scale....hence the name ''Brake'' Horsepower.There was no measurement for horsepower - the torque reading from the spring scale was converted to horsepower by a formula developed possibly by James Watt or his cronies.Modern engine output is now measured in Watts as part of SI ,the International System of Units..I'm sure one of those pedantic engineers will pop up with the appropriate formula within 2 posts.
Now days they can calculate the output of an engine (using whatever system you like) by taking a sound recording of a F1 car acceletating out of a corner and feeding it into a computer....such is the level of industrial espionage today.
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[[my 900 Hornet is under 200kg with a full tank of gas ready to ride]]
I'd very much doubt that
Corners? Pah! Who needs em?![]()
Besides you can talk, with a Supermoto there are no corners, just some sideways shenanigans in between the point & the squirt.![]()
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
My bike it 10,000kW PMPO!!!!!!
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Not quite.
With a supermoto there ARE corners but not one 'right' line: all lines are available and ya just take whatever line the road bikes didn't take then go over or under them with a big gin under your helmet.
potholes?210-300mm suspension laughs at them
roundabouts?these are supermoto jump ramps
dirt or gravel?those just to help get the back out quicker
road bikes?what use are they on NZ's goat tracks?
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