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Thread: 2007 Klx300r

  1. #16
    Join Date
    19th October 2005 - 20:32
    Bike
    M109R, GS1200ss, RMX450Z, ZX-12R
    Location
    Near a river
    Posts
    4,308
    Quote Originally Posted by takitimu View Post
    Back to T.W.R.'s comments, what forks seals/air filter do you recommend & would removing the air box lid be an issue in wet conditions ? ( Northland has been known to experience rain ), I'm thinking a 3rd party muffler once I start ringing it hard, so far, it's better than me .

    One last thing, I got some pretty rough headshake opening it up on 90 mile beach, I guess past 80kph or so, not sure if that's normal, I was going to ask at the first service.
    Only because we stock them, we replace the stock seals with Versrah fork seals (there are better brands to be had) & Filters we usually fit RamAir or Moose. Slip on Mufflers are usually Procircuit.
    Unless your planning on turning the KLX into a submarine removing the airbox lid wont be an issue, as it is the stock lid only deminishes air flow & stops bugger all water anyhow, and as a whole the airbox is pretty well protected by the seat & side-panels.
    A muffler, filter,& ditching the airbox lid are worth about 4kw & mostly in the mid-range. Getting into a big-bore header pipe, jetting the carb etc unleashes a few more ponys, but it starts to detract from the allrounder style of the bike.

    The head shaking could be a number of things, but most likely the steering head bearings have bedded in & need to be retorqued.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    1st May 2006 - 20:22
    Bike
    08 RMZ250
    Location
    North Shore
    Posts
    1,454
    On the beach i had the front shaking a bit at high speeds, and for the handling, dad hasen't done anything to the setup of the shocks, he just changed the tyres and that made the biggest differance, the front stoped washing out, and alot more grip in the rear. i had to try alot harder to keep infront of him when he got the tryers "perellie's" over the factory ones.

    With starting never use throttle and try and all ways use the kill switch, makes life easy to start next time. Once started let bike run for a couple of seconds first before blimping the throttle.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    22nd October 2006 - 00:29
    Bike
    SXF250
    Location
    Up North
    Posts
    1,242
    Quote Originally Posted by Buddy L View Post
    With starting never use throttle and try and all ways use the kill switch, makes life easy to start next time. Once started let bike run for a couple of seconds first before blimping the throttle.
    It's an awefully hard habit to beak , twisting the throttle a little while kicking it over, I'll get there. The other trick I got told was to just push the kick start down a bit after you stop ( when hot ), which flips the decompression & let's some air in making it easier to restart, I haven't had a chance to try that yet though.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    4th January 2005 - 18:50
    Bike
    Massey ferguson 7495 dyna-vt
    Location
    Norfland
    Posts
    6,917
    if its hot and ya drop it....full throttle and a healthy kick....same with flooded bike....

    KLX300's are the easyiest bikes i've ever had to start with a kick start!!!!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    Given the short comings of my riding style, it doesn't matter what I'm riding till I've got my shit in one sock.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    9th January 2006 - 12:26
    Bike
    KX450 Motard/Flat Track KTM150SX H2R
    Location
    Tauranga
    Posts
    4,445
    KLX300 are good bikes, fork seal issues must be regional as we sell shit loads of KLX300's and do not have issues with fork seals, try running fork skins they help a lot with upside forks, thier a a few easy tricks to get a bit more HP out of them, easy way is a header pipe, cheaper than a muffler and not as loud

  6. #21
    Join Date
    11th April 2005 - 20:27
    Bike
    KTM 200EXC RM250
    Location
    Waitakere
    Posts
    2,280
    You guys with the problem seals need to try high performance Synergy Seals. These seals are springless. They have an advanced design and an advanced compound. The seals are designed to float and move with the tube during deflection, in other words, they retain a constant consistant seal unlike OEM seals. The difference between the two is OEM's are metal cased with rubber moulded around it and a spring or two. Well think about this. You have a tetter-totter effect in the forks. At the tetter point you have a good seal, but on the opposite side the spring will not create equal pressure, in other words, the seal is stuck in position when it really needs to move back and forward with the fork leg. Plus with the Synergy Seals the bridging affect is nil, bridging meaning, mud getting stuck inbetween the seal lips. That is one of the major issues with OEMs. Bridging allows oil and water to pass back and forth, Synergy Seals do not. And they will not leak. Any other seal is just not worth the trouble.
    Synergy Seals are only available in New Zealand at ProRide Suspension Service.
    Phone 09 832 0153.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    25th January 2005 - 23:58
    Bike
    L0 RMZ250, Aprilia RS250/SuperMono673
    Location
    Unfortunately not Piha
    Posts
    307
    We are very close to buying.
    The retail on these bikes is $7495, what would you consider to be a fair deal per bike based on the fact that we are potentially going to purchase x3 of these? $7k? $6.5k? $6k? ???

  8. #23
    Join Date
    25th January 2005 - 23:58
    Bike
    L0 RMZ250, Aprilia RS250/SuperMono673
    Location
    Unfortunately not Piha
    Posts
    307
    O well, scrap that idea!
    Mike just bought a 2006 KX450 and im doing the same. The KLX would of got real boring real fast (but very slowly cause there only 30 odd horsepower).

    Best deal we could get on x3 KLX300Rs was $6900 each for anyone interested in buying one.

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