the rental guys we used and would recommend are
http://www.adventure-moto.com/index.htm
There are quite number of places to rent in Phnom Pehn (capital) and some can be almost half the price (US$8-10 a day) but you never quite know how sound the bikes are and we got told by quite a few people to go for the western rental shops (theres a number of French, Ausie ones in addition to the americans we used above). It just makes it easier to communicate and they can give some good advice on where to go (and not to go) and what some of the local customs are. The police over there often pick on tourists because they now they extract spot fines of $5-$20 for silly things like riding with your headlights on during the day. You also can't legally hire bikes in Siem Reap or Sihanoukville so you need to organise it in Phnom Pehn.
As far as planning goes, we used the lonely planet to work out a basic route based on the time frames and then the guys from Adventure-Moto helped us refine it and choose exactly which roads to take. From there we simply brought a local map (large fold out type) that I kept stuck between the tank and seat for quck access and all else was sweet. The roads are actually quite well sign posted and in english also. The main roads are almost all sealed so this helps you know if you are on the right road or not.
Theres still the odd landmine in Cambodia so venturing off clearly travelled tracks etc is not advisable unless you have a guide. And hardly any english is spoken outside the main areas so if you are planning on going rural a GPS would be advisable as the locals won't be off much help if you get lost. Having said that there are some great sights and non frequented temples off the beaten trails so its worth making the effort if you have the time and want a real adventure.
Bookmarks