RG150 bogging down

[Coyote]

yeah inside that plastic piece just after the + terminal is the fuse .

Yes that black box (with the two plugs) is what im calling the CDI.

Excellent. Hopefully I can ride into town to get some fuse wire. Any idea what grade of wire I should get?

Oh right. So is it bung?

I'm right in assuming the indicator problem is due to the regulator? I remember something about our Ford Laser needing the regulator replaced since the indicators wouldn't flash, but when I asked dad about it he didn't remember

[Crisis management]

Glad you proved me wrong!

It's good to see you not giving up, I await the next installment.

Iain.

[Coyote]

I'd be pretty certain that it has a CDI unit. Almost all bikes now except off roaders (no battery, no lights) have one. And it is very probably the "black box"

I think my suspicion is probably correct. Running for a prolonged period without a battery fried the regulator (changing that wouldn't alter the start/no start situation). The regulator gone, the very high voltage output from the alternator (with no regulation) stuffed the CDI unit.

I'd strongly recommend getting the battery reconnected before you blow a second CDI.

Your conclusion about the voltage dropping too low when the indicators are on is almost certainly correct.

EDIT

That'll be an inline fuse.

Hooboy, I'll get the fuse first then. Won't ride into town for it though, I'll wait till Dad comes home so he can give me a lift into town

[Coyote]

Glad you proved me wrong!

It's good to see you not giving up, I await the next installment.

Iain.

Cheers

Although it was my ignorance that fried a CDI which might cost a bundle to replace

Trial and error I guess, I'll learn my lesson from this

[Ixion]

Good thinking. I'm thinking maybe the "buzzing" you spoke of was the CDI shrieking in pain.

[Jeaves]

Excellent. Hopefully I can ride into town to get some fuse wire. Any idea what grade of wire I should get?

Oh right. So is it bung?

I'm right in assuming the indicator problem is due to the regulator? I remember something about our Ford Laser needing the regulator replaced since the indicators wouldn't flash, but when I asked dad about it he didn't remember

its a 15a glass fuse (if ya lucky theres a spare inside that case , it holds two with one being a spare) otherwise anything 15a that you can fit nicely will do.

The indicator problem i would lay down to the lack of juice getting to the relay - that being a guess

[Coyote]

Good thinking. I'm thinking maybe the "buzzing" you spoke of was the CDI shrieking in pain.

Oh gosh, poor thing

its a 15a glass fuse (if ya lucky theres a spare inside that case , it holds two with one being a spare) otherwise anything 15a that you can fit nicely will do.

The indicator problem i would lay down to the lack of juice getting to the relay.

Cheers. I'll have a look. If there isn't a second there might be one in the other RG. Pretty sure the original fuse on that one is broken too

Off to the gargre!

[Ixion]

A wee bit of theory :

A bike alternator , in the absence of anything else , will produce some very high voltages . 20 to 30 volts typically.

We only want about 13 and a bit to run things and charge the battery.

Normally the alternator current (after being turned into DC) is fed to the battery. The battery is a big "sink" that "absorbs" the current. To make sure that the battery doesn't get over charged, there is a voltage regulator. This "shunts off" any voltage once the battery is fully charged.

When you run without the battery , all the alternator current is directly fed through to the regulator. Do that for too long , and the regulator gives up the unequal struggle and dies. Now, the whole 30 odd volts is fed into the bikes electrical system. The CDI unit (and other stuff) that is designed to run at 12 volts is suddenly getting hit with 30 volts. So after a bit, it too dies.The DCI unit will usually be the first to go, since it is full of transistors and other delicate whizzy stuff. No CDI unit, no spark. Or feak and weeble ones. Bike, him no go.

(Purists will note that I've simplifed things abit. It's a bit more complex, but that's the general idea)

[Coyote]

Interesting stuff. Good to know


Both fuses were stuffed, but the seconds bikes fuses were perfect. The neutral light is bright green, battery works!

But indicators are still a problem. the right rear stays on and you can't turn it off. And if you indicate left both the rear indicators go on. And both times they just turn on, there's no flashing. The front ones were doing nothing so i unplugged them to see what would happen. No change to the rear indicators. So next to the bright green neutral light there is a bright orange indicator light not flashing

What should I do?

[Ixion]

You may have fried the flasher unit also. Do you have a spare on the donor bike? And check the bulbs .

[Coyote]

When you run without the battery , all the alternator current is directly fed through to the regulator. Do that for too long , and the regulator gives up the unequal struggle and dies.

Does the regulator have much to do with the indicators?

[Jeaves]

Interesting stuff. Good to know


Both fuses were stuffed, but the seconds bikes fuses were perfect. The neutral light is bright green, battery works!

But indicators are still a problem. the right rear stays on and you can't turn it off. And if you indicate left both the rear indicators go on. And both times they just turn on, there's no flashing. The front ones were doing nothing so i unplugged them to see what would happen. No change to the rear indicators. So next to the bright green neutral light there is a bright orange indicator light not flashing

What should I do?

swap over the indicator relay with the one off your other bike (it sits next to the CDI on the left .

[Ixion]

Only in that so long as it is still there regulating the indicators won't get hit with over voltage. Regulator is what keeps the bikes electricty at 12 volts (nominal) .

What you need to look for is the flasher unit. Typically , a small metal can about an inch in diameter (or square) with three leads. Though there are other varieties.

[Coyote]

swap over the indicator relay with the one off your other bike (it sits next to the CDI on the left .

Only in that so long as it is still there regulating the indicators won't get hit with over voltage. Regulator is what keeps the bikes electricty at 12 volts (nominal) .

What you need to look for is the flasher unit. Typically , a small metal can about an inch in diameter (or square) with three leads. Though there are other varieties.

Well the little black box next to the CDI seems to be the relay. With either one from each bike, turn the indicator right and the right is on, left and both are on but the indicator light on the dash is off, turn them off and the right one stays on. Without the little black box plugged in the right rear indicator stays on but the indicator light on the dash turns off

Confusin innit

And when you indicate left the black box makes a click as the rear left indicator turns on

[Jeaves]

Ok , now as Ixion has already mentioned , check all the bulbs are plugged in correctly and the same wattage