RG150 bogging down

**Coyote** · 25th January 2007, 14:37

Tried to go for a ride into Wellington but along the way it would bog down if it revved low. I would have to redline it whenever I got it started again at every set of lights. And as I was going along the motorway it would bog down, but shifting down into higher revs seemed to keep it going.

I got as far as Motomart and I was suggested to get a new plug. Got the old one out, it was pretty stuffed, new one in. Still bogging down. Decided to go home cause the bike seemed to run if I redlined it and used the clutch to move, but when I got to melling bridge it bogged down and just wouldn't start from then on. Since I could only hand tighten the plug it had got a bit loose but i tightened it again but still not going. Had to call in Dad with the trailer to come pick me up

I've had battery troubles for a while now, a wire going to it must be broken cause it doesn't even use the battery. So the battery wasn't in the bike since it has seemed to be fine running on the alternator untill today. Plus the left front indicator doesn't work and when i indicate left the front right indicator would turn on.

What should I try to do? I have time to try do things myself because I'll put it's rego on hold. I've got to do the swingarm bushings and fork seals anyway

**davereid** · 25th January 2007, 14:51

Its likely not electrical. Sounds like a carb problem to me, a blocked idle jet would be a likely culprit. Look there first !

**Ixion** · 25th January 2007, 14:55

Bad fuel, water, blocked jet, alternator packed up , crank seals gone, seized. Pick one or more.

**Coyote** · 25th January 2007, 15:06

It turns over so it's not seized

I thought about the carb. RG100 showed me how to clean one so I'll give that a shot. It was clogged up before after I put some silicon around the fuel tap since it was leaking and some of the silicon got inot the fuel line.

Could be fuel cause I got it from the second RG's fuel tank. Might've got some dirt from the transfer. Pretty sure no water got in.

Hope it's not gaskets or alternator

I'll give the carb a clean tomorrow and see what happens

**imdying** · 25th January 2007, 15:30

How old was the fuel you put in?

**Coyote** · 25th January 2007, 17:04

Originally Posted by imdying

How old was the fuel you put in?

It was fairly old. It had been in the second RG for a few months

Can petrol go off?

**Ixion** · 25th January 2007, 17:09

To some extent, yes. What happens is the more volatile components of the fuel evaporate , leaving the heavier residue. Eventually you end up with gum. But it takes more than a few months, and I would expect the problems to be immediate , not delayed.
I mentioned alternator because you said you had no battery and were running off the alternator. If that were dying it might need more and more revs to generate enough current for a spark. On reflection it is perhaps more likely that overvoltage from the alternator has cooked the regulator then the CDI and/or coil. Easily tested, do you have a good spark at kick over?

**Wasp** · 25th January 2007, 20:53

dude, you need my cell# if you're going to be breaking down at melling cos i live less than 5 mins up that hill and could have put any tools needed into a back pack

i dont know much 'specially about 2 strokes but the bandit bogs down when the carbs are fouled - have to stop for 5 mins sometimes just sitting with it barely idling till it suddenly goes fine again (carbs are clean atm so all is good)

**Coyote** · 26th January 2007, 08:04

Originally Posted by Ixion

To some extent, yes. What happens is the more volatile components of the fuel evaporate , leaving the heavier residue. Eventually you end up with gum. But it takes more than a few months, and I would expect the problems to be immediate , not delayed.
I mentioned alternator because you said you had no battery and were running off the alternator. If that were dying it might need more and more revs to generate enough current for a spark. On reflection it is perhaps more likely that overvoltage from the alternator has cooked the regulator then the CDI and/or coil. Easily tested, do you have a good spark at kick over?

Fair enough. Fuel appeared fine to me.

I have no idea if I'm getting a good spark. And it was in low gears that I had to rev high, and high gears I could rev half as much. It doesn't have a CDI but it does have a regulator which I'm scared I have broken. When I was plugging the new indicators in the other day something near the battery made a loud buzzing noise and stopped. From then on the battery wasn't being used (tacho was bouncing up and down when indicators were on, but the indicators wouldn't flash. And neutral light was faint). Remember I have a second bike that I can take parts off of to see what works or not.

How do I clean the carb? I opened it up and I don't know what to do. Can't remember what RG100 did when he showed me how to clean it. Some silicon clogged it up before after I tried plugging a leak around the fuel tap, I was fortunate enough to have his help. I'm thinking of just chucking the other bikes carb on just to get the bike going hopefully

**Coyote** · 26th January 2007, 08:09

Here's a photo. Don't know what's what

**Jeaves** · 26th January 2007, 09:46

Originally Posted by Coyote

Fair enough. Fuel appeared fine to me.

I have no idea if I'm getting a good spark. And it was in low gears that I had to rev high, and high gears I could rev half as much. It doesn't have a CDI but it does have a regulator which I'm scared I have broken. When I was plugging the new indicators in the other day something near the battery made a loud buzzing noise and stopped. From then on the battery wasn't being used (tacho was bouncing up and down when indicators were on, but the indicators wouldn't flash. And neutral light was faint). Remember I have a second bike that I can take parts off of to see what works or not.

How do I clean the carb? I opened it up and I don't know what to do. Can't remember what RG100 did when he showed me how to clean it. Some silicon clogged it up before after I tried plugging a leak around the fuel tap, I was fortunate enough to have his help. I'm thinking of just chucking the other bikes carb on just to get the bike going hopefully

When you say it doesnt have a CDI.....did you remove it or you didnt know you had one?

If so , check the + lead off the battery is ok and not earthing on the chassis somewhere and check/replace the fuse....hopefully that was the popping sound) . Provided your battery and alternator is ok this will fix the bouncing taco/faint lights etc .

**Crisis management** · 26th January 2007, 10:02

Originally Posted by Coyote

Here's a photo. Don't know what's what

Congratulations, nor do any of us.....

Not wishing to be critical, but the bike is suffering from over enthusiastic and untrained mechanic......expect it to respond poorly to this attention.

I was the same when I discovered a 6" crescent and destroyed a lot of stuff whilst attempting to fix it.

The first move is to get a manual, read it and take your time. There are a gazillion people that will help with stuff you don't know, just ask but realise we can't diagnose by osmosis. Your best bet is a local guy that can come and help.

Its ok to accept help!!!

Do this systematically: drain all fuel, clean the tank, lines and carb SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY. Remember how it goes back together.

Buy new gas and use that.

Buy a new plug and check the timing / ignition (there may be nothing to fiddle with here)

It should run after that.

Good luck!

**Coyote** · 26th January 2007, 10:43

Originally Posted by Crisis management

Congratulations, nor do any of us.....

Not wishing to be critical, but the bike is suffering from over enthusiastic and untrained mechanic......expect it to respond poorly to this attention.

I was the same when I discovered a 6" crescent and destroyed a lot of stuff whilst attempting to fix it.

The first move is to get a manual, read it and take your time. There are a gazillion people that will help with stuff you don't know, just ask but realise we can't diagnose by osmosis. Your best bet is a local guy that can come and help.

Its ok to accept help!!!

Do this systematically: drain all fuel, clean the tank, lines and carb SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY. Remember how it goes back together.

Buy new gas and use that.

Buy a new plug and check the timing / ignition (there may be nothing to fiddle with here)

It should run after that.

Good luck!

Nyah nyah, got it working

As in my first thread I've got a new plug. Tightened that up so that's no problem.

I swapped the carbs from both bikes. Put the fuel tank back on, kicked it, didn't go. So it wasn't fuel, it was electrical as I thought

Take the regulator off the other bikes wiring loom, one plug was an absolute bitch. Same plug was a bitch on the bike I was fixing. But eventually I got the regulators swapped over. Kicked it, didn't go

Onto the battery which made the buzzing noise. Took out the battery holder with this mysterious black box (CDI?). Swapped it with the other bikes one. It started going. Battery was connected but it still wasn't using it, but at least it was running off the alternator. Only problem is the indicators won't turn off. I'll switch back the regulators and see if this fixes it once I've had my lunch

Originally Posted by Jeaves

When you say it doesnt have a CDI.....did you remove it or you didnt know you had one?

If so , check the + lead off the battery is ok and not earthing on the chassis somewhere and check/replace the fuse....hopefully that was the popping sound) . Provided your battery and alternator is ok this will fix the bouncing taco/faint lights etc .

RG100 told me it doesn't have a CDI. It could have been the black box. I'm not sure where the fuse is. Is it along the positive wire? Cause there's a big bit of plastic covering something before the wire gets to the positive terminal.

Took it for a spin around the block. It ran fine, except it bogged down a bit when I U-turned because I think the indicator is robbing the engine of it's spark. Plus when I was trying to start it after the ride both the indicators still on and the powervalves doing their usual opening up on start up made the bike bog down. Enough kicks got the alternator to power them all and start the bike up

The right rear indicator is the one thats fixed on. You can't switch it to the left, and the front ones don't work

**Jeaves** · 26th January 2007, 10:51

yeah inside that plastic piece just after the + terminal is the fuse .

Yes that black box (with the two plugs) is what im calling the CDI.

**Ixion** · 26th January 2007, 10:55

I'd be pretty certain that it has a CDI unit. Almost all bikes now except off roaders (no battery, no lights) have one. And it is very probably the "black box"

I think my suspicion is probably correct. Running for a prolonged period without a battery fried the regulator (changing that wouldn't alter the start/no start situation). The regulator gone, the very high voltage output from the alternator (with no regulation) stuffed the CDI unit.

I'd strongly recommend getting the battery reconnected before you blow a second CDI.

Your conclusion about the voltage dropping too low when the indicators are on is almost certainly correct.

EDIT

ause there's a big bit of plastic covering something before the wire gets to the positive terminal

That'll be an inline fuse.