Which chain type?

[XF650]

I need to replace drive chain & for not much $ more than std O ring can buy a good quality XR type. However XR chains that I have seen do not seem to have split link that allows easy removal for maintanence & cleaning, especially after picking up gravel grit etc. Otherwise I can clean the chain while still on the sprockets.
So for mix of riding including gravel, seal & the odd ford but not much actual off road, what type of chain do you guys use (removable or fixed)?

[Crisis management]

I have just fitted a really basic - no 'o' ring or anything, type, on the basis of it's going to get dirty and abused so with regular cleaning and oiling it should last as well as anything else.

This theory is completely untested by the way and I'm a complete n00b to this stuff!

No doubt there will be more "expert" opinions than mine.......

[T.W.R]

What gauge chain ?? let me know & I'll get a XR split link joiner for you

As a standard item the joiner with XR chains are rivet type, but split link joiners are available

[cooneyr]

When I got my bike it had a DID O ring (of some type) rivited link 525 chain. I suspect but am not really sure, that it is the original chain. It has done just on 16000kms and just starting to get noticable wear on the rear sproket. I think it will be good for another few kms yet.

I just oil (90 weight) and oil often. Done about 4000 kms on the chain so seems to work for me. Waxes and grease just hold grit IMHO.

Just carry spare length of chain, two clip type joiners and a chain break for the emergencies.

Cheers R

[warewolf]

This can turn into an oil thread....

Best advice for buying chains: matching the quality of the chain to the quality of the sprockets will return the best value. A worn chain will chew out the sprockets, and vice-versa.

Riveted join links are more reliable. Clip links tend to come off, particularly when the chain wears. You can typically get either or both with the chain. I've never needed to remove a chain for cleaning.

Some good reading from Chain Gang: Selecting the Right Chain.

[Henk]

I'm a big fan of rivet links.
Mainly because I ride dirt bikes as well and on those the clip tends to wear when riding in mud and slop. A couple of times I have heard a ping noise as I wheeled the bike backwards in the garage and sure enough the clip has shot off into some obscure corner.
For the peace of mind I'd go for a rivet type every time.
It is possible to carry spare links but having had a chain fly off a road bike once I'd rather not go there again. The 630 O ring chain was fine but the collateral damage to the chain gaurd and sproket cover was significant.

[XF650]

Thanks for the comments.
Ended up getting a rivet link O ring chain at a good price, fitted.

Interesting that one retailer said that chain warrenty can be compromised if different joiner link than that supplied with chain is used.

[cooneyr]

Opps - just had a look to clarify the chain type as wanting some spare links and clip type master links for emergencies. I have a EK525 SROZ not a DID. Definatly not the orignal then hence definatly not managed to get 16k kms on it.

Anyway - what type of chain would others get - a EK525 SROZ or a DID 525 VM2. The EK website has info on pin diameter etc but the DID site does not have as much info (although it does have some). Seems the tensile strength is very similar as a lot of other specs. Basically it comes down to personal preferance so what say you fullas - EK or DID?

Sorry to hijack the thread.

Cheers R

[Henk]

I usually get whatever O ring, X ring, some ring chain they have on the shelf at the time. I don't think it makes a lot of difference which one you buy. I will not buy some of the more expensive chains as I can't believe that a better O ring design is going to give twice the life at twice the cost or whatever the relevant ratio is.

[warewolf]

I will not buy some of the more expensive chains as I can't believe that a better O ring design is going to give twice the life at twice the cost or whatever the relevant ratio is.

There's a lot more to chain construction than the O rings. I've almost universally found that the higher quality stuff (not just chains) returns better value for money than the cheap stuff, and that's not even factoring in the extra labour associated with the extra fiddling you have to do with the cheap stuff. So I try to find the quality stuff at a cheap price and look after it.

eg the current chain on the 640 is a top-shelf item. It's heading for minimum of 3x the life of the OEM chain (currently 2.5x), but cost only 1.5-2x. And over that time has been adjusted fewer times than the original one, too.