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Thread: Getting some helicoils done

  1. #46
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    3rd November 2005 - 15:20
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    I've kept a few old jappers running way past their use by date so therefore I have had helicoil a lot of threads recently. The trick is to closely inspect all threads and recoil anything that looks even slightly dodgey. For a M6x1 thread they recommend drilling a 6.3 mm hole before tapping. This is probably fine for a steel casting but for an aluminium casting using a hand drill I find that a 6mm drill is better. Keep a steady and accurate hand when drilling and use plenty of lubricant when cutting the thread. I have great success with this producing a stronger and more durable thread than original.
    If you love it, let it go. If it comes back to you, you've just high-sided!
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  2. #47
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    24th September 2006 - 02:00
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    Woooo! Engine has stopped pissing out oil and smoke off the headers has largely vanished. There still seems to be a very small element of smoke misting off the headers, I think it's probably just residual shit that will burn off.

    So that means I can get a WOF; went to VTNZ place and waited for the fat indian guy to finish his lunch, then he failed me for the following things: too much movement in brake pedal (it's comfortable there, I like it); headlight is wrong spec (bullshit! I looked at the lens and it is exactly the correct NZ spec); and the best one, my footpegs move around too much. What?!?!?! He said the hinge they fold up on is not tight enough. What a load of shit. If they were any tighter, they wouldn't fold. Not like they can come out anyway, there's a bloody split pin through the end.

    So I went home, ranted and raved, then rode out to a tiny little garage that I'm not telling you where, but PoshTourer's mate (who sold me the spare CB250RS -- the frame I just sold to a racer who's putting an XR500 lump in it) told me he gets his WOFs for. Result? No bullshit, he actually looked at stuff that matters (like wheel bearings, brakes, brake fluid), and gave me a pass. I know my bike isn't perfectly up to scratch, there's plenty of areas I need to fix, but footpegs with hinges that are too floppy? Faaaark.

    Anyway, I'm happy now.

  3. #48
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    22nd February 2007 - 09:39
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    Quote Originally Posted by xerxesdaphat View Post
    If the thread that the coil screws into is stuffed, what are my options here? Bigger thread?

    In searching around the internet for answers to that question, I stumbled across this page: http://www.thumperpage.com/articles/nftfoh.html I know exactly how this guy feels . Actually from his description of the engine, it sounds almost identical to mine. Just twice the capacity. Probably the XL500 motor.
    oh mate, i can confidently say that i'm doing so much better in my rebuild than this poor guy...
    but would be a hell of a laugh spending some time with him fixing things up in his garage i imagine

  4. #49
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    24th September 2006 - 02:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by psyguy View Post
    oh mate, i can confidently say that i'm doing so much better in my rebuild than this poor guy...
    but would be a hell of a laugh spending some time with him fixing things up in his garage i imagine
    Hahaha yes. I've been following your thread with some interest -- it seems you've got a good engine there. Hope the rebuild continues to progress well, it's going to look stunning I think.



    I think there's an oil seal on a hollow dowel thing in the join from the barrel to the cylinder head that is leaking a little. There is a very small amount of oil on the outside of the barrel, just under the head gasket. Also, there was some white smoke when I first started the bike up today. This went away after a while, and didn't reappear when I started the bike the three times after that today. If the cylinder head gasket was blown, I think the effects would be much more noticeable.

    Oh well, we'll see. If the worst comes to the worst, I'll get an XL/XR500 lump and (as the man who bought the rolling frame said) chisel off the `500cm^3' and engine number and replace it with my engine number and `248cm^3'. Problem solved

  5. #50
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    26th February 2005 - 15:10
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    White smoke after standing, clearing and not reappearing is usually oil seeping down valve stems and past the valve seals (if there are any). It may be due to worn valve stems, worn guides and or worn seals. Or, some engines just do it. Especially older designs. Ask Mr Motu about his diamante sometime.

    Not a biggy on an old bike, just keep the oil topped up.
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  6. #51
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    24th September 2006 - 02:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    White smoke after standing, clearing and not reappearing is usually oil seeping down valve stems and past the valve seals (if there are any). It may be due to worn valve stems, worn guides and or worn seals. Or, some engines just do it. Especially older designs. Ask Mr Motu about his diamante sometime.

    Not a biggy on an old bike, just keep the oil topped up.
    Ooooh ok. I replaced the stem seals when I put the top end back together last, but there's other things than that on your list.

    Well I won't lose too much sleep over it.

    Next thing to play with is the carb. I have two carbs, and a carb rebuild kit. Ought to be able to get this one right at least.

    All I can say is that I'm glad I don't own a Triumph. Oil leaks aren't much fun.

  7. #52
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    22nd February 2007 - 09:39
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    Quote Originally Posted by xerxesdaphat View Post
    Next thing to play with is the carb. I have two carbs, and a carb rebuild kit. Ought to be able to get this one right at least.
    yeah, carbs are the next thing for me too (once i get the engine out of the way that is). i look forward to seeing how you go with it. cheers

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