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Thread: how long are fork seals meant to last?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    26th August 2004 - 15:53
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    1993 DUCATI MONSTER
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    WAIOTAHI
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    Thats why you use the thin leather any oil coming out will show up, If if rains the oil will run down the forks. You'll know if they are blown. It solved my problems with seals.
    I would if I could. So I will

  2. #17
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    13th February 2004 - 12:00
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    On a side note, has anyone tried filling pits with superglue/alydite/other glue as an alternative to rechroming?

  3. #18
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    4th November 2003 - 13:00
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    BSA A10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milky
    On a side note, has anyone tried filling pits with superglue/alydite/other glue as an alternative to rechroming?

    yes,worked fine,filled it with araldite,used some fine wet and dry didn't ever have a problem with it.
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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  4. #19
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    19th March 2003 - 20:47
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    RF900
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    fork seals will last forever! its not the seals that are the problem its the pits in the crome that stuff them. It only need a tiny pit in the crome to destroy the seal. now find the pit. usually the pit is above the normal(new) rebound thats because the seal has never been there and no one ever cleaned there so you can clean the pit, rub down the pit, fill the pit with araldite, rub down the pit with finest wet and dry carburendium paper, increase the damping to avoid the pit(harden to suspension) or recrome the struts. or renew the forks or repalce the seals agnasium.
    its the Pits
    Your never to old for a sportsbike

  5. #20
    Join Date
    11th November 2002 - 13:00
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    2001 Yamaha FAZER 600S
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    Devonport,Plymouth,U.K.
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    Most new-ish bikes have deflectors on the forks to shield them to some extent from flying grit e.t.c.Gaiters are a good idea but dont forget they can also hide corrosion e.t.c. so if you ever go to look at a bike for sale with them fitted then take a peek underneath just to make sure they`ve been put on for the right reason.If the seller gets stroppy walk away because any seller with nothing to hide will happily let you poke around within reason.

  6. #21
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    8th August 2004 - 23:11
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    1987 Nifty 50
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    Ashhurst
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    I have the same problem with my forks. Is there a specific type of araldite you use or will any brand do? Also what grade sandpaper did you use? Anyone out there got any idea what new or secondhand forks would cost for my GSX250FL ?
    "Not one day that we are here on this earth has been promised to us, so make the most of every day as if it was your last, and every breath ,as if it were the same"

  7. #22
    Join Date
    19th March 2003 - 20:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Storm
    I have the same problem with my forks. Is there a specific type of araldite you use or will any brand do? Also what grade sandpaper did you use? Anyone out there got any idea what new or secondhand forks would cost for my GSX250FL ?
    I used crystal Araldite 5 min set but fully make sure the mix is correct.the grit was the finest they had cant recall but if it scratches the crome its too course.
    dont be impatient either try to get the araldite to only fill with little excess and leave for two days before you attack it.
    Throughly clean the pit first with white spirt or nail varnish remover (ask the mrs). not turps or petrol, they are oil based and will act as a barrier to the glue.It worked for me but also consider the compression damping stop point, its rare to have pits below the compression line so if you stiffen it a tad you might avoid the pit all together?
    Your never to old for a sportsbike

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