Yamaha Diversion?

[greenhorn]

Just don't expect to ride it around a corner fast greenhorn! A mate of mine nearly killed himself on a Diversion 900 because the darn thing wouldn't lean over far in a corner.

I suppose if you're after a cruiser as opposed to a true sportsbike - the Diversion would suit you!


Zed

Thanks for your input Gav/Zed.

I guess the other problem would be parts as WT said before theyre jap market only?...

[gav]

I dont think parts would be any more of a problem than anything else, hell I've got a NZ new CBR600 and any body work etc parts I need would be ex Japan, priced a headlight, ex Japan

[greenhorn]

, cos as i said before not only am i a fat, tall bastard i am also a poor bastard, oh, and a tight bastard.

I guess what i am trying to say is, i am a COMPLETE bastard

[moko]

600 Diversion was the best-selling bike in Europe when it came out in the early 1990`s and they only stopped selling them here last year when the wankers in Brussells changed the emmission/noise regs which took out a whole load of popular bikes.Un-like the Bandit it was designed as a whole from the ground up and wasn`t a "parts-bin special".The 600 Bandit was Suzukis answer to a very popular bike,it was faster and had more street cred and hammered Divvy sales though they still sold pretty well.Compared to the 600 Bandit it`s less top-heavy and while slower a better bike around town.they`re well-known for reliability and Despatchers love `em.The 400 is just a smaller version,same bike,smaller bore,the 900 is totally different and you cant really compare it with the smaller bikes.400 is Jap market only but loads over here and spares are very easy to get as 600 parts fit and there are still loads of those on the road,any of the Brit mail-order specialists can sort you out with parts and will ship to N.Z.Only problems are that they corrode in Britains shit weather if not looked after and they all have a rattle from the clutch which no-one seems to know how to get rid of,sounds like the camchain to Divvy newbies but it`s a well-known foible and totally harmless,not to mention apparently almost impossible to cure.The 600`s are pretty bullet-proof and despatchers often take them around the clock,and they`re none too gentle,400 shouldn`t be any different.I dont know if the 600 was officially imported to N.Z. but I`m sure I`ve seen them advertised by a couple of hire companies while I was shopping around,Te Waipounamu in Auckland had a couple of 900s in when I was there.If you just want a reliable run-around a Diversion will do you fine,I had an XJ600N,basically an un-faired Divvy,neat little bike if a little bland.

[dangerous]

And just how hard was it to click on the trade me link in my post? LOL

Yeah, yeah, yeah I know...... dont ya just hate that! I posted at 16:35 and you posted at 16:36 I then spent the next 14min looking for the bloody bike add and posted it at 16:50 and in the mean time FS, XJ and Zed all posted

[moosecake]

Right here goes, firstly ensure your carbs are bang on balanced and running smooth as a babies, yeah, as sometimes it might just be the carbs out causing the rattle(chatter) ok, you'll need to be a competent engineer or know a good one, remove right hand side casing to reveal the clutch, not much movement is there?! actually there is, some bikes rattle all the time, some only when clutch is engaged, it varies.

INITIAL STAGE..
remove 5 screws holding clutch basket front on, put to one side, now remove the centre nut and locking washer, remove all the plates, keep them all the same way, remove spacing washer, now remove the main basket, firstly on the rear you'll see the drive for the oil pump, remove the circlip, and remove the drive gear,

STAGE 0NE..
you'll see a pin, bit loose isn't it!! get an engineer to make you a pin so it's a snug fit, reassemble, they were fitted with the wrong size pin from new, either that or it's worn, renew it with an original does nothing, it still moves, only a few mm but it's all it needs!!

STAGE TWO..

remove the oil pump screws, remove the pump and seperate by removing the singe screw behind, DON'T LOSE THE TWO LOCATING PINS, now through the shaft is a pin, is the hole oval? check it, is the bar thinner in diam than it should be? poss yes to all, as with the basket pin, get a snug fit pin in there and renew any worn parts as nesc.

STAGE THREE..

The tricky part, back to the clutch basket, like i say you'll need good engineering skills, and poss know a good welder too!!
remove the 3 big rivets on the basket, do this by grinding off the heads of the rivets, seperate the parts, you can now get to the parts that rattle a LOT, the springs, one cure is to pack the springs out at either end with spacers, don't use washers, the compound of the spacers needs to the same as the springs, or made of strong metal that's a different metal to the springs and the alloy casting, to avoid metal fusing!! the same diam as the springs, as long as they don't slide out the slots, erm major problems!! the best cure is to get some new springs in there that are a few mm longer, you'll have to shop around for some, when done reassemble, ideally put new rivets through, a decent engineering firm should be able to assist, or like i did weld them back on.

reassemble the lot, don't forget your, oil!!

start her up, and.. no rattle, this works, it's a cure to that damn noise, the srings move mainly, try the pin on the back first as that's easier to do, or try a new basket, plates etc kit if your feeling flush, i believe these were made with fractionally wrong parts, only assumption i can come up with!! i've not tried a new basket, i've heard reports that it makes no difference, and i've heard newish bikes with a rattle!!

I'm from the uk, i have relatives that live in new zealand, i joined this site to pass info on, good luck all
(by the way, the dissasemble and reassemble of the basket is damn fiddly.
(i also take no responsability of any problems or malfunction or damage to any bike/vehicle that you decide to modify) i made it work for me, I AM a competent engineer!
cheers all