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Thread: Welding a cracked frame

  1. #16
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    1st November 2006 - 14:38
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    You could try this. If you can't lift the frame out by yourself try to slide it out onto something of a similar height. I'm not scrawny but an XS650 engine is a heavy beast, I found this the best way for me. I wedged the bike upright with wood under the franme and then slid the engine onto a few blocks of wood next to it. Then moved the frame/bike out the way. Do the reverse for putting it back in.

    Not sure if your bike engine will come out either side of the frame or not. There may be a technique to getting it out so check the manual.

    I seriously wouldn't want to chuck money away at LVV guys if you can get a good weld and a nice splosh of paint.

    Good luck with piecing it all back together as well.

  2. #17
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    A handy trick for removing heavy engines is to lay the bike on its side 9with the engine in but all mountings loosened or removed. Then move the engine clear of the mounts, easily done because you only need to slide/wiggle it , not lift it.

    Now stand the bike up, leaving the engine on the floor!

    This is the standard method for the Suzuki Waterbus, about the heaviest bike engine out there. Works well.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  3. #18
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    26th April 2006 - 16:17
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    take it to a low volume certed crash repair place, get them to weld it and write you up a repair cert then your mum cant fail you at your next WOF
    its Crazy Big Al but if your have lesbian fantasies you can read it crazy bi gal if you like!

  4. #19
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    3rd October 2004 - 17:35
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    and make sure you splash some dirt all over the weld a week or two before you take it in, nothin more sus than a big clean spot on a frame. (works for underbody rust that you've just painted over in your car too)
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazybigal View Post
    take it to a low volume certed crash repair place, get them to weld it and write you up a repair cert then your mum cant fail you at your next WOF
    it'll cost me seven million dollars wont it?

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    A handy trick for removing heavy engines is to lay the bike on its side 9with the engine in but all mountings loosened or removed. Then move the engine clear of the mounts, easily done because you only need to slide/wiggle it , not lift it.

    Now stand the bike up, leaving the engine on the floor!

    This is the standard method for the Suzuki Waterbus, about the heaviest bike engine out there. Works well.
    Cheers, never thought of that one.

  7. #22
    Don't worry - you would eventualy......
    In and out of jobs, running free
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  8. #23
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    Just curious- how do the LVV nobs tell if a weld is a quality one?
    X-ray it? or just look to see if it is neat,which is pretty meaningless with regards to weld strength

  9. #24
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    best to get the nobs to do it themselves! then they cant argue about it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Pixie View Post
    Just curious- how do the LVV nobs tell if a weld is a quality one?
    X-ray it? or just look to see if it is neat,which is pretty meaningless with regards to weld strength
    its Crazy Big Al but if your have lesbian fantasies you can read it crazy bi gal if you like!

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pixie View Post
    Just curious- how do the LVV nobs tell if a weld is a quality one?
    X-ray it? or just look to see if it is neat,which is pretty meaningless with regards to weld strength
    They should use ultra sound on it.

    The frame on my F650 cracked in a similar place. The side stand was exceptionally wobbly but the structure was still there (just)
    Took it to the bike shop, they just disconnected the battery, welded it, painted it and the job was a goodun.

    Unless you really need to don't remove the engine. If the engine is still in place then the frame will not bend that much. If you remove the engine and the head bends the frame you are going to have one hell of a job getting it back in! Also remembering your frame may well be slightly stressed from the drop so could move when you take out the engine. and even a few mm out can make replacing an engine a total and utter pig

    If you need to get at under the bike it may be easiest to remove the tank (fire hazzard) and lay it on its side, 3 mins work as opposed to ?? hours to remove the engine.
    Last edited by XP@; 21st March 2007 at 11:34. Reason: cos i remembered summut
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  11. #26
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    They'll only check it if they know about it, or can see it has been done. Just do it tidy and forget about it.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pixie View Post
    Just curious- how do the LVV nobs tell if a weld is a quality one?
    X-ray it? or just look to see if it is neat,which is pretty meaningless with regards to weld strength
    If your take it to them to get welding inspected, they expect to see a certificate provded by the certified welder who did the job.
    No certificate = no pass. Even if the weld looks like a goodun.

    To become a certified welder you must have a certain level of experience, and then carry out a series of welds of different types. These get inspected both visually and with NDT (xray/eddy current test) to check for correct penetration of the weld.
    Unitec run certified welder courses.
    vagrant

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by XP@ View Post
    Also remembering your frame may well be slightly stressed from the drop so could move when you take out the engine. and even a few mm out can make replacing an engine a total and utter pig
    hmm, i think the easiest way is just to show you where the crack is... its about 10mm long, 2mm wide and doesnt get any bigger/smaller when weight is added to different parts of the bike

    (not dail up friendly, large picture)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #29
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    26th February 2005 - 15:10
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    However, as noted somewhere above, motorcycle frame welds do not have to be done by a certified welder. I don't actually think there is even any particular certification for it.

    The legislation is , at best , vague.

    Here is the relevant section of the Vehicle Inspection Requirements Manual (VIRM): Light Vehicle Repair Certification (Repair VIRM).

    Reasons for rejection
    1. The manufacturer’s welding procedures have not
    been followed.
    2. A recognised repair research organisation’s
    procedures have not been followed when the
    manufacturer provides no information.
    3. A weld has been completed using the incorrect:
    a) shielding gas, or
    b) electrode wire.
    4. There has been too much heat build-up during the
    welding so that the parent material is weakened.
    5. The weld:
    a) has porosity present, or
    b) has cracks present, or
    c) has undercut or cold lap, or
    d) has poor penetration.
    6. Unless the vehicle manufacturer states otherwise
    replacement spot welds:
    a) are located on top of the OE weld locations, or
    b) are spaced so as to create a continuous heat
    affected zone.
    7. Brazing has been used in a repair where it is not
    specifically permitted by the manufacturer’s
    instructions.

    Summary of legislation
    Applicable legislation
    • Land Transport Rule: Vehicle Repair 1998.
    Repair requirements
    1. The repair method used to comply a
    vehicle must take into account:
    a) the date of manufacture of the
    vehicle; and
    b) the class, make and other relevant
    characteristics of the vehicle; and
    c) the approved vehicle standards
    with which the vehicle is required to
    comply; and
    d) any relevant manufacturer’s
    recommendations and alternative
    methods
    e) the material specifications used for
    the construction of the vehicles, its
    structure, systems, components or
    equipment; and
    f ) the compatibility of the intended
    repair process with material
    specifications.
    Note 1 When welding is done, the manufacturer’s specifications
    must be taken into account.
    What a "recognised repair research organisation" for motorcycle frames would be is any mans guess.

    Being able to show that any welding was done by a certified welder would no doubt give the certifier assurance that it was done properly. But it doesn't *have* to be done by a certified welder. Just if you do it yourself you may have more trouble convincing the certifier to sign it off.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  15. #30
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    28th June 2006 - 14:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by vagrant View Post
    If your take it to them to get welding inspected, they expect to see a certificate provded by the certified welder who did the job.
    No certificate = no pass. Even if the weld looks like a goodun.

    To become a certified welder you must have a certain level of experience, and then carry out a series of welds of different types. These get inspected both visually and with NDT (xray/eddy current test) to check for correct penetration of the weld.
    Unitec run certified welder courses.
    Mate,I have asked the question many times and there is not certificate for this kind of work.

    From what I know there are two main welding certificates. One is where you learn to weld different welding process's and how to do them in strange positions. (Like above your head. Hopefully you don't learn the hard way like when the melted steel makes a tear drop and roles down your overall!!!)

    The second one is more for welding tubes that will be under pressure for places like Fontera.

    My question to you now is, Where the F@#$K does welding frames go!?!

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