Flooged out hub.

[start_now]

I have a knacked hub and I need to repair it without spending too much. The problem is that the previous owners took little care and rode it hard with seized bearings and this has in turn worn the hub and now the bearings flop around. Not good and not safe!

Has anyone had this problem before, or have any suggestions as to how this could be fixed without replacing the whole wheel or hub? (I'm not interested in spending that sort of money on a 93 RM when I'm looking to buy a new bike within the next six months.)

[Ixion]

Hm. Loctite make a product that will fill *small* gaps and secure loose bearings in their housings.

There are limits though.

[Madness]

Loctite QuicKMetal

Devcon have a range of repair Epoxies too, they come in larger, industrial sized (expensive) packs from memory.

[start_now]

it's probably less than a millimetre play, but enough on both sides but enough to cause the wheel to wobble and that ain't good. Loctite you say. Never heard of it (them). You got any more details?

[start_now]

Loctite QuicKMetal

Devcon have a range of repair Epoxies too, they come in larger, industrial sized (expensive) packs from memory.

I'd imagine that it would be cheaper than buying a new wheel!

[Madness]

Indeed, as Ixion said though, these Epoxy repair materials do have their limitations. The loctite product will set you back around $20, worth a go, just test it under safe conditions etc. etc. etc.

[Pancakes]

Can't have it milled out and fit a suitable bearing with the next casing size up? Take the measurements, find a friendly bearing place (Saeco on Diana Dr, Nth Shore, AK have been helpful to me in the past) and ask a mag wheel repairer for a quote. 1mm each side would be more than I'd try to fill w/ epoxy, especially if there is wear all the way around.

[F5 Dave]

They may also suggest a bearing sleeve (as there may not be that much meat around the bearing. Need to find someone with a big lathe or strip the spokes out to machine it, but not a hard job to machine (or respoke).

[hesitates before saying] You could centre-punch the bearing surfaces to help grip the bearings, but this is pretty 'bush' & won't perform miracles.

[team cudby]

can you give me rim details ie size/width as i may have a rim and useable

[FROSTY:Me]

easy peasy dude-you need to measure the EXACT amount the hub has flogged out.Now contact an engineering supply company and buy a strip of brass shim stock half that thickness--so say its 1.0mm oversize then youll need .5mm shim stock --if its .5mm tthen you need .25 shim stock--etc etc.
punch the old bearing out and cut a strip of shim that wraps around the bearing.--Im sure you can figure out the rest.

[Ixion]

Trouble is the wear is almost never concentric. The hub will be slightly oval as well as worn. So shimming will be tight at one point but still loose the rest of the way round. Then it flogs around the tight point and wears even more. Shimming can work but you need to skim the hub first, which is tricky unless you unlace the wheel (even then you need a fairly big lathe)

[craisin]

buy a can of coke for $1 so you get your shim stock and a drink tooI have a RM125 1984 rear wheel but the alloy sprocket is welded on to the wheel and the bearing closest to the brake was packed with a coke can old farmbikes are like that. I had some other wheel on there for six months now thats had it So Im fitting a 3 spoked sports wheel that came with a lot of parts that I swapped for 5 expansion chambers. Have a good day

[Katman]

Get a hammer and centre punch and make as many punch marks as will fit around the inside of the hub where the bearing sits. This raises the height of the metal around each punch mark thereby taking up the slop. Smear some Loctite 660 retaining compound around the punch marks and tap the bearing back in. Leave the wheel off the bike long enough for the Loctite to set.