Stock 4th generation VFR750 rear wheel
Scooter boy
Stock 4th generation VFR750 rear wheel
"channellling the Pleideans"
is the nitrous for show, or go?Originally Posted by cleverchap
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
Of an enviable height
Veery nice! Love the cans.
parting of the sensory
Yeah, I thought after I posted that it might be the case. I'm not overly familiar with the 4th Gen; I had a VTR1000 before the VFR800, and a 3rd gen before that, and a VF500 before that.
... and that's what I think.
Or summat.
Or maybe not...
Dunno really....
parting of the sensory
That'll be an overflow catch can for the radiator; a NOS bottle for that is almost de rigeur for streetfighters.
Alrighty; here's a quick synopsis of what's non-standard on my bike (just in case anyone gives a rat's), in roughly chronological order. The tank has a CF cover (I think Geelong Carboncraft), and also Aussie is the Staintune highmount. This has three modes: stealth (normal spud), everyday (cut-down spud), and raucous (no spud). Single seat cowl's been modified so it can be on with the pillion handles in place. Standard headlight bulbs are crappy Honda 40 or 45W; adapter rings allow any brand of any H4 halogens, so it's got dual 55/60W, as they are more'n adequate.
First week a Ventura packrack (eventually) went on it. The dealer apparently took this as an opportunity to prove what crap customer service they excelled at, how greedy they are, and how prepared they were to renege on deals, and tell lies, all for a relatively small profit. So y'see, since 2004, I haven't set foot in their North Shore shop once, and have spent many MANY thousands of dollars on servicing, accessories, parts, tyres, oil, jackets, trousers, boots, helmets, wet-weather gear, gloves, etc etc,anywhere but in their store.
When I bought the VFR it had an uncustomarily good (for a Honda) gearchange, so I fitted a Factory Pro Evo Star shifter kit to prolong the niceness. What wasn't nice was the snatchiness off a closed throttle, and the lean surge at constant small throttle openings. Taking all the slack out of the throttle cable and fitting O2 sensor eliminators fixed that.
It originally had Bridgestones on it; these were replaced with Avon Storms as I'd had a good run with them. However (but!) a few years ago when a near-new front Storm wore a nasty step in it, I saw the error of my ways, and it's had Michelins ever since - Pilot Power front, and PR2 or 3 rear. Tyre valves are Ariete 90-degree alloy ones. It did have chromed Honda Civic wheelnuts fitted to the rear wheel, but I put the original ones bakc on a few weeks ago, painted gold to match the front disk carriers. All three disks have been replaced in the last couple of years.
It had a standard Honda airfilter on it, which I converted to a Unifilter after a dusty trip up to Cape Reinga (before the road was sealed). I got sick of cleaning it and re-oiling it, so last year a BMC went in. If I could've got one readily, a Pipercross would've been the first choice.
It's had two different PC2's in it, but I could never find a good map, and I've found that just the O2 Sensor eliminators with no PC2 works really well.
My last two bikes had R/R problems. On the VFR750, I fitted a new R/R where the horn normally goes, with thick wires from there to the stator and battery. When I had the VTR, I fitted a clock/voltmeter, and yet still missed the tell-tale signs of an R/R going west; I even bought a new battery it didn't really need.
So... one of the early mods was fitting a 12V Pentium cooling fan on top of the R/R, under the left-side cowl. Must've helped - as far as I know it's still on the original R/R. Oh - and the MotoBatt battery's been on board for 5 or or 6 years so far.
What else... I dropped the bike at standstill years ago, and bent the right-hand footpeg, and cracked the clutch cover. JB Weld fixed the cover and saved me over $200, and I got the drilled footpeg brackets for $0, but had to pay $27 for them to come almost literally on a slow boat from China (well... Canadia), which took almost 8 weeks.
I dabbled with a brake light flasher, until I found out it was illegal (and anyway, it died).
I fitted an Elka rear shock a few years ago, then followed that up with heavier Sonic Springs in the forks. A crappy plastic hugger (Pyramid or somesuch) came from Mrka, to replace a rubber flap I had behind the shock. I later had the forks fettled by Robert at CKT (now KSS), and discovered that with new fork seals and Racetech bits dialed in for the springs, the front end was great at low speed, or over 90 km/h, but at 70-90 on non-smooth roads, my arms got a hammering. Turned out Sonic Springs stole their spring calculator from Racetech, and it was recommending springs that were much too stiff. So, back the forks went to Dr Bob, and softer Ohlins springs and more revalving to match them went in. Then a roadtrip to New Plymouth resulted in the Elka being gutted and fitted with tasty Ohlins bits and oil (only the best lesbian Afghani fur seal penguin whale oil, natch).
Recentlyish, I recovered the seat with a cover I bought off TardMe, and added some extra foam while I was at it. It's good. Well... at least it's better.
Oh - there's an extra button on the right switchblock: it's a waterproof button connected to my garage door opener, so I can have the door up by the time I ride in. Another extra switch is a fan override on the left switchblock. The VFR's have pannier radiators, which are crap at cooling in slow-speed traffic, so with the manual switch I can flick the fan on early. Unfortunately, it still sucks instead of blowing like the VTR one, so it's fighting natural airflow. I also added a new thermo fan switch, which trips at 95C and goes off at 85, instead of 106/96 like the OEM one.
All the lecky bits are connected to a BlueSeas 5025 fusebox, which is half switched by the ignition, and the rest on all the time. Extra electrics include two Fiamm horns under the front cowl; they (and the standard horn) run off a thick cable running to a relay near the horns. There's also an accessory socket on 1m of cable under the seat, for tyre pump, GPS or whatever. The original heated grips (which were better, being smaller diameter and with an easy-to-use rotary controller) died and were replaced by solid-state Oxford ones with push button +/- switches (tactile, but not through winter gloves) and LEDs to indicate which of four heat settings they're on.
I ran lower gearing (one tooth down on the front) for a couple of years, with a Jaycar speedo healer fitted, as most of my running is around town, but when I replaced the chain with an RK one, I went back to standard gearing.
It's had iridium NGK plugs in it for a few years - they're still good.
The latest stuff is the rear taillight to replace the one I smashed on the last day of work last year. It's an LED one from Thurn Motorsports in Germany. I replaced the front indicators at the same time coz I didn't like the orange 'dumbo ears'. For a few years before that, I had CF blanking plates and LP flushmounts at the front, but got sick of the crappy quality of the indicator bulb sockets and the lack of ready suppliers of the unusual bulbs.
And that's about it, I think...
... and that's what I think.
Or summat.
Or maybe not...
Dunno really....
Wearing Hi-Viz Black.
Far canal! Nice rides and modifications done guys!
What is it doing? Dying randomly?
TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”
God's Evil Twin
Not quite randomly, it fails at repeatable intervals.
Once warmed (not sure if this is a requirement) I'll get around 8km (or miles I can't remember which) of normal performance/running then it'll die dead, no splutter or stutter just straight dead.
Once that happens it won't start, it just keeps tuning over but won't come to life, that is until I let it sit for around 10-20mins then I can start it like nothing ever happened & repeat the whole process.
Science Is But An Organized System Of Ignorance"Pornography: The thing with billions of views that nobody watches" - WhiteManBehindADesk
parting of the sensory
... and that's what I think.
Or summat.
Or maybe not...
Dunno really....
Suffers from peterpan syndrome
Bugger...that sounds like a possible fuel pump fail mate. (def look at the fuel supply)
Could be effecting the flow rate to the carbs..same thing will happen if you run it as a gravity feed system...it works on a VFR for the first 3/4 tank...then theres not enough pressure and the carbs starve....just as you described
(Another thing to check...on those carbs (well..my 96 750 anyway) there are wee breather tube's going to a small secondary filter...clean it!(best bet is to replace it), trust me!!...that little bugger is "mean't" to be cleaned at every service...and yet no-one ever does it...if that little bugger is blocked, or more than likely completely disintergrated!, it can actually block the air flow tube so the carb slides cannot function properly, it can cause some annoying fueling problems for such a wee filter)
you could try hooking up a direct gravity feed to carbs (Just don't forget to fill the tank right up!) that way you can either confirm or eliminate the fuel pump as the problem
When Life thows me a curve
...I lean into it!
Of an enviable height
Nice bike!
Where did you get the clear front indicator lenses?
What sort of exhaust has it got (pic?)
And two questions for the viffer gurus -
How do you find them commuting / filtering?
Anyone fitted mirrors with integrated indicators (ala Gixxer) to their 98-01 vintage RC46?
Wearing Hi-Viz Black.
OK. It's an electrical issue.
On the crankshaft there are two sensors that tell the computer when to fire the sparkplugs. One of these will be your problem. Take it to a good auto electrician and give them a wiring diagram and point their nose into that region of the problem. They should get it sorted quickly if they know where to look.
TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”
Wearing Hi-Viz Black.
Absolutely superb!
If you are confident of not tapping anything with your elbows, then the bike will fit through easily. Deceptively narrow.
The worst thing will be the models with the reg/rec hidden away in an area where they can get even hotter than normal.
TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”
God's Evil Twin
I'm not sure I have that filter? I haven't seen anything that resembles one anywaysBugger...that sounds like a possible fuel pump fail mate. (def look at the fuel supply)
Could be effecting the flow rate to the carbs..same thing will happen if you run it as a gravity feed system...it works on a VFR for the first 3/4 tank...then theres not enough pressure and the carbs starve....just as you described
(Another thing to check
you could try hooking up a direct gravity feed to carbs (Just don't forget to fill the tank right up!) that way you can either confirm or eliminate the fuel pump as the problem
Not a bad suggestion there about trying gravity I'll give it ago
I would have thought an electrical prob such as that would cause the bike to run rough before it died?
Science Is But An Organized System Of Ignorance"Pornography: The thing with billions of views that nobody watches" - WhiteManBehindADesk
Suffers from peterpan syndrome
Good point Swoop!
agree the pick-up/pulse generators are also high on the list of possible culprits. (chocy fish for you sir)
When Life thows me a curve
...I lean into it!
Wearing Hi-Viz Black.
They are the list.
Hopefully there are replacement parts still available somewhere.
TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”
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