VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[sil3nt]

Use a C-Spanner where the B is on this photo in this linkhttp://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...in-adjustment?


No idea about the clutch. My cable is shit and i still havent fixed it

[DrunkenMistake]

Uhh sweet cheers for that, I had a quick glance at the bike and I see exactly what it is and where it is, the bike didn't come with a tool kit, but I have a funny feeling I have a C spanner somewhere that will fit it.

[sil3nt]

Tool kit would be nice wouldn't it. Damn these 2nd hand bikes

[HenryDorsetCase]

Hey guys,
So about.. I dont know lets say a week ago, I brought a VFR400 NC30, now im not gonna lie, I have probably been fapping about this bike since I first started riding road bikes, And I gotta say, I have NO regrets buying this baby, I have a few Q's and A's im hoping you guys can help me answer,

first of all is, I found the clutch doesn't fully engage, so a friend and I adjusted the clutch but without a hell of a lot of difference, (as a note, my friend is far more motorbike/mechanically minded than I am ) so Im thinking it could be the oil causing the problem, more so the wrong oil, just wondering if this is a normal problem for these bikes or its definitely something with mine.

Secondly, I have a little bit to much slap in my chain, as I hinted towards above, I dont know jack shit, So im asuming you can adjust he chain still but I cant seem to figure out how or where haha ,

Any help would be appreciated,
Cheers
DM
Heres a picture of my new baby,
Attachment 233826

nice bike

be prepared for it to have stuffed fibre plates in the clutch, not the oil. Give it an oil change anyway (its just prudent) but dont be surprised if it doesnt fix it.

the clutch is easy to get at (though the nut is a bitch to undo without air tools).

Your local Honda dealer will likely ask you "Whats a VFR400? How old is it? well, we might be able to get you some bits in six weeks out of Japan and give me your platinum card number first". Sources for spares are easy over the web. I use David Silver Spares out of the uk a lot, but also try the local guy: Econohonda.

www.davidsilverspares.co.uk

www.econohonda.co.nz

If you're ordering from DSS, get the service kit which has spark plugs, oil filter etc.

They have clutch cables too, cheap.


and grab the C spanner chain adjuster tool too. I got mine from ebay UK.

to adjust chain. Undo the big capscrew at the back of the swingarm. THat frees the pivot to rotate. Then use the C spanner in the handy notches to turn the pivot to the required tightness. then do up the lock capscrew.

easy as.

[DrunkenMistake]

Thanks for that man, thats really useful, im going to drain my oil when I get a free chance and just top it back up and see if it helps, if it doesn't then ill replace my filter oil and clutch plates, I might as well do it all in one hit.

[HenryDorsetCase]

If you're ordering online, get the spark plug removal tool as well. they are cheap enough, and the plugs are TINY (M8 thread or something) . these bikes are hard on plugs as well, and plugs are REALLY expensive. Like $40 a pop (thats EACH) expensive. because they are so small they are a complete ARSE to get at, so the Honda tool makes sense. You can pick them up off ebay.co.uk for about ten quid each, but check the shipping cost before hitting buy now.

[jono035]

Definitely recommend David Silver Spares.

I've read about the friction modifiers in car oils causing wet clutches to slip, but I've got no experience with it personally. Seems like the oil is an easy place to start.

The spark plug threads being M8 sounds about right as I've got a M13 deep-throat socket that works well (along with a blob of blu-tack to hold the spark plug in place in the socket).

[gatch]

deep-throat

He he he.

10

[DrunkenMistake]

Haha yah, when i changed my plugs in the CBR250 I lost the plug socket off the end of the ratchet and spent a good 40mins with bluetac, gaffer tape and a magnet trying to fetch it and the plug out

[jono035]

Haha yah, when i changed my plugs in the CBR250 I lost the plug socket off the end of the ratchet and spent a good 40mins with bluetac, gaffer tape and a magnet trying to fetch it and the plug out

Hahaha, that'd be pretty annoying.

A magnetic pickup tool from Supercheap is only about $5.

Really useful, makes getting valve shims out easy, too...

[Mystic13]

Definitely recommend David Silver Spares.

I've read about the friction modifiers in car oils causing wet clutches to slip, but I've got no experience with it personally. Seems like the oil is an easy place to start.

The spark plug threads being M8 sounds about right as I've got a M13 deep-throat socket that works well (along with a blob of blu-tack to hold the spark plug in place in the socket).

They did in the beginning but this hasn't been an issue for years. You can also get synthetic oil for motorbikes.

There is also a bit of a conspiracy running with synthetic oil as there is now synthetic oil and normal oil with additives that is called synthetic oil. The oil companies did a great job here. One produced normal oil with additives and called it synthetic. Another oil company took them to court and fought it. (So it has a tested court case behind it). And the Oil company won (or is that all oil companies won). because now they can call normal oil synthetic oil when it only has an additive. I thought it was a brilliant move on there part. Especially taking themselves to court.

You can always ask the supplier. BMW had the same belief until I got Rotax to Austria to tell BMW germany that the oil was all good and now it's used worldwide by BMW service people. It also makes the bikes quieter.

[Mystic13]

On a side note I've just thrown a pack rack and frame for a VFR 400 on bike trader and trademe. If you're interested PM me. I also have a VFR 400 that I'll be selling. And I'm sure it actually has the tool kit still.

[motorbyclist]

Thanks for that man, thats really useful, im going to drain my oil when I get a free chance and just top it back up and see if it helps, if it doesn't then ill replace my filter oil and clutch plates, I might as well do it all in one hit.

do you mean the clutch doesn't fully DISengage, or slips? Many motorcycles, particuarly hondas have a habit of "clunking" into first gear from stationary reguardless of clutch adjustment.

Car oil will most certainly cause the clutch to slip, but so does two decades of race-starts at traffic lights. Change the oil with the proper stuff (should really do with ANY new 2nd hand vehicles) but either way if the plates are contaminated or abused they will need to be replaced.

If you're ordering online, get the spark plug removal tool as well. they are cheap enough, and the plugs are TINY (M8 thread or something) . these bikes are hard on plugs as well, and plugs are REALLY expensive. Like $40 a pop (thats EACH) expensive.

mine have been fine on plugs.... david silver sells a service kit including air filer, oil filter and four plugs for less than what a dealer charges for plugs alone!

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_22860/

Definitely recommend David Silver Spares.

I've read about the friction modifiers in car oils causing wet clutches to slip, but I've got no experience with it personally. Seems like the oil is an easy place to start.

The spark plug threads being M8 sounds about right as I've got a M13 deep-throat socket that works well (along with a blob of blu-tack to hold the spark plug in place in the socket).

Ehab knows first-hand what car oil does to bike clutches

The NC30/35 plugs are a M10 thread IIRC. "standard" for bikes is generally 12mm.

The 50cc super cub also uses a tiiiny plug - it's to maximse the available space for valves, apparently.

[DrunkenMistake]

For Example,

I will be stationary, put the bike into first, hold the clutch in as far as it will go, and the bike will be still fighting me to move forward

[PirateJafa]

For Example,

I will be stationary, put the bike into first, hold the clutch in as far as it will go, and the bike will be still fighting me to move forward

Ah.

Your clutch is not fully disengaging. This is the better of the two cases, as it means that your clutch is likely still fine (though every time you do this, it will be putting further unnecessary wear on it).

You need to adjust your clutch, which is done by the two threaded adjustors (well, one does the adjusting, the other locks it into place) just by your clutch lever. Get your friend to assist you if necessary, but your bike should NOT be trying to pull you forwards when you have your lever pulled in right against the bar - the clutch should be fully disengaged at this point, not dragging at all. If you reach the limit of your adjustment and it is still doing this, then your clutch cable may have stretched and need replacing - but your first port of call will definitely be playing with the adjustment, which should fix the problem easily.