VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[racefactory]

I think I have a spare second hand one you could have if you want mate?

[DrunkenMistake]

I think I have a spare second hand one you could have if you want mate?

If your referring to the hose, then thanks but its all good, its like $5 a meter at supercheap plus I need the exact same sized stuff for my bucket racer etc thanks though

[gatch]

Fuck I hope it arrives.
Ordered last night so we will see, shipping wasn't all to bad I also picked up a few other little bits and pieces sorry sil3nt I pretty much done it when I had posted that haha

---------
Kay So this morning I went and warmed up the bike as usual, turned off the choke etc and BAM it just died, spent a good 10 mins trying to get it going and just gave up, Tigertim20 came around at about 4:30ish to give me a hand and we stripped it back to where I had got yesterday, he checked the carbs etc for me and he mentioned something I should ask you guys as I would never have checked, He said this about the Jets, secondaries were 35s mains were a split between 115s and 118s, was wondering if this is normal?.
Anyways we got everything back together etc and couldnt seem to figure out what had gone wrong, when we got to the tank it hit us, The Vaccume hose under the tank was Shagged and was falling apart, so it had split in the process of me pulling it all apart yesterday unfortanitly due to me and TT been banter buddies, we had chewed up about 2 hours before we had realised this, so looks like ill be taking the 2fiddy to work tomorrow and to super cheap to buy some more hose haha.

The carbs jets may be a little lean. I think they recommend 118 in the front 2 carbs and 120 in the rear two. If you get a freer flowing exhaust you will NEED to jet your bike up, as you seriously risk burning valves or a piston. I think this is covered in the carb removal guide on 400greybike forums..

Good work finding the hose.. Vacuum leaks are gay with aids.

[DrunkenMistake]

Haha yah ae, The jet issue isnt to much of a problem as I am looking at getting a freer flowing can put on and was going to rejet the bike at that point and time and probably look at getting it dyno tuned

[racefactory]

I have jets if you want them.

I was referring to the clutch cable mate.

[racefactory]

Haha yah ae, The jet issue isnt to much of a problem as I am looking at getting a freer flowing can put on and was going to rejet the bike at that point and time and probably look at getting it dyno tuned

Just do the fuel tap mod to your bike... more reliable and no more shitty hard to fit vacuum hoses (good luck getting the hose onto the no3 cylinder inlet manifold)

Jet sizes you got are normal. Rear cylinder get hot so they run richer main jets. If you are getting an aftermarket pipe on there then for a start try running 118 120 that's a good baseline. Don't forget to raise your needles 0.5mm with the needle washer mod and adjust your pilot screws so you aren't too rich at idle as a result.

My bike is running really free and pulls like a train up top... However the infamous flat spot at down low is quite bad and amplified as a consequence (on full throttle it goes poorly there) need to raise the needles.

[DrunkenMistake]

yeah well, took alot of skin and some of my knuckle and thumb nail but I got the hose on the inlet manifold, Fired her up and Wam she started!...
and OH FUCK she pissed out fuel, was coming out of the Carb overflow on the rear set of carbs, TT came around and had a looksy and such and done some shit and we fired it up and no fuel problem, but we only ran it for a second, then Hayd3n came round and plastic welded up my cracks in my fairings etc and was going to help me put everything back on, but he mentioned I should give it one more kick, so I did and it pissed out fuel again from the same place, So we are thinking maybe its the floats stuck at the top of the carbs as I turned them upside down (without thinking), so will have to do it once more over tomorrow ... so a total of like 8 hours work so far. Was wondering if anyone can give me some kind of insight as what this problem could be?

[racefactory]

Stuck float or stuck needle sounds likely.

Nice one with getting that vacuum tube onto the no3 inlet manifold... I'll be damned if I could get it on there with hands. I had to use some conveniently long needle nose pliers and a lot of fucking about.

Dude I wouldn't worry about your flat spot too much, all VFR's do it. You need to shim the needle if you really want to eliminate it though... they made it like that for emissions. How does the bike run down low and at top under full throttle?

Btw... don't know if anyone has mentioned it already but while you're inside it's guts, just beware of one thing; whatever you do don't take off the fucking rubber snorkel and the flap in front of the airbox underneath the frame. You think it would increase flow and give it better ram air etc but it will make it run like a bag of shit- guaranteed.

[DrunkenMistake]

nah the flat spot I was experiencing was the one that is typical, so no problems there, and I see that flap there and thought, I bet thats there for a damn good reason. And left it, I just got recommended this from a race engineer " it's common for float valves to leak after a carb has been disassembled, the usual tricks are to give the carbs a good tap on the float bowls once they're back on or alternatively to hold the fuel tap diaphragm open by sucking on the vacuum line for 5-10 secs with the drain screws open on the bottom of the carbs to let any debris under the float valve to be flushed out. if that doesn't work you'll need to take the carbs back off & pressure test them in case one of the float valves is no longer seating properly"

[HenryDorsetCase]

yeah well, took alot of skin and some of my knuckle and thumb nail but I got the hose on the inlet manifold, Fired her up and Wam she started!...
and OH FUCK she pissed out fuel, was coming out of the Carb overflow on the rear set of carbs, TT came around and had a looksy and such and done some shit and we fired it up and no fuel problem, but we only ran it for a second, then Hayd3n came round and plastic welded up my cracks in my fairings etc and was going to help me put everything back on, but he mentioned I should give it one more kick, so I did and it pissed out fuel again from the same place, So we are thinking maybe its the floats stuck at the top of the carbs as I turned them upside down (without thinking), so will have to do it once more over tomorrow ... so a total of like 8 hours work so far. Was wondering if anyone can give me some kind of insight as what this problem could be?

can you LIGHTLY tap the float bowls using something like the handle of a hammer or screwdriver? if that works it would save you a shitload of time taking the carbs off again.

[Mort]

Can I join this thread ? I have a R1 with one of those crossplane crank thingys. Its just like a VFR800 (but better)

[DrunkenMistake]

can you LIGHTLY tap the float bowls using something like the handle of a hammer or screwdriver? if that works it would save you a shitload of time taking the carbs off again.

Tried sucking on the fucker for 20 seconds, just ended up getting high, and gave all four a light tap and nothing, still pissing gas, looking down at the carbs so the front been the dials end and the back been the tail, its the back left carb causing the problem thats where the over flow hoses are and its the one closest to the left thats pissing out gas and if i remember right that was connected to that carb

[sil3nt]

Tried sucking on the fucker for 20 seconds, just ended up getting high, and gave all four a light tap and nothing, still pissing gas, looking down at the carbs so the front been the dials end and the back been the tail, its the back left carb causing the problem thats where the over flow hoses are and its the one closest to the left thats pissing out gas and if i remember right that was connected to that carb

You wanted a manual? http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130025778

[DrunkenMistake]

You wanted a manual? http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130025778

Cheers man

[jono035]

Drunken Mistake - Yeah, same thing that I did, ripped the hose pulling it off. I ended up just soldering the hose nipple on the intake to seal it and apparently the fuel tap mod had already been done. I've never had any problems with it leaking fuel or whatever and I never turn the tap off so hopefully the luck stays with me.

As for jets, 115f 118r is normal for those, or at least for the UK spec ones, I think. From memory, the 400GB forums recommend 118f 120r or 120f 120r for aftermarket cans and 120/122 or 122/122 for full exhaust replacements. I've got 118f 120r in mine at the moment. I don't know about jetting them both the same, I figure if the guys who designed the bike wanted the rear cylinders running richer (I guess they run a bit hotter?) then I should probably stick with that theory.

As for the flat spot between 5k-7k, you can get an aftermarket programmable CDI unit that supposedly helps with that. I've got one waiting to go on as soon as I get the exhaust leaks sorted out. Some of the flat spot is apparently just due to CDI timing in order to pass emissions testing when running at 100k in top gear.

If you're going to be riding the bike around town a lot, the best thing I can suggest is dropping a tooth on the front sprocket, I think to a 15 tooth? Cycletreads had one of those sprockets in stock. It brings the revs up about 7% at the same speed which makes the bike way more rideable, given how tall first gear is. Means you'll go easier on your clutch, too. I can't remember what it used to sit at when doing 100km/hr, but it's about 7.4k rpm now. Down the back straight of pukekohe it made no difference as the bike didn't get up to the limiter anyway so it doesn't make much difference to the top speed.